Probably a dumb question but...

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderator: admin

User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35431
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

Yes t-nuts were made for t-slots(ss again 'does their own[different] thing').

Yes they are the best thing for use with the 510 and 520 fences etc., but are not all that handy for attaching a sacrificial face to the fence.

Those through holes made it a lot simpler!!!;)

Much as I would dislike drilling holes in a 520 fence:eek:, I have to agree with Chuck:)!

Tapped holes in a MVII fence? Curiosity is greatly 'aroused'.:confused:
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21481
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

[quote="JPG40504"]Yes t-nuts were made for t-slots(ss again 'does their own[different] thing').

Yes they are the best thing for use with the 510 and 520 fences etc., but are not all that handy for attaching a sacrificial face to the fence.

Those through holes made it a lot simpler!!!]

I don't think the walls of the 520 fence are thick enough to drill and tap. Oh yes, you could drill and tap them but would the threads last.

The fence is and 1 1/2" or more thick and it is hollow. I would not want to torgue down on anything that went all the way through. It would be my luck that I would bend the fence side wall.

Use the t-nuts in a track on top to secure the inverted "L" shaped fence recommended earlier.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
fjimp
Platinum Member
Posts: 2345
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:45 pm
Location: Lakewood, Colorado

Post by fjimp »

As much as I hate to disagree with a fellow who carriers a remote in his pocket capable of arousing the local authorities, I must agree with Dusty on the T-nut use suggestion. I really am afraid drilling holes in the 520 fence will create an undesirable outcome. If not immediately certainly in the future. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35431
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

fjimp wrote:As much as I hate to disagree with a fellow who carriers a remote in his pocket capable of arousing the local authorities, I must agree with Dusty on the T-nut use suggestion. I really am afraid drilling holes in the 520 fence will create an undesirable outcome. If not immediately certainly in the future. Jim

Hey! I said I 'disliked' drilling holes. Said nothing about tapping!

I do not know the wall thickness of a 520 fence, but, the 500 is 3/16" thick at the hole location(1/8" thick at the bottom) and the 510 is about 1/4" thick. It is indeed hollow between the sides.

The holes are about 1 3/4" above the table so 520 holes would be just below the t slot top as is the 510.

There is no doubt in my mind that through screws will hold the temporary face more tightly against the fence face than brackets from the top of the fence. It the brackets are adequate, then all is well.

A simple carriage bolt and wing nut or knurled nut is far simpler and more gooder IMHO.

Again I would 'dislike' drilling holes in a 520 fence, but then again. . .

FWIW 1/4" holes are excessive. A smaller screw will hold adequately.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
dusty
Platinum Member
Posts: 21481
Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Hey! I said I 'disliked' drilling holes. Said nothing about tapping!

I do not know the wall thickness of a 520 fence, but, the 500 is 3/16" thick at the hole location(1/8" thick at the bottom) and the 510 is about 1/4" thick. It is indeed hollow between the sides.

The holes are about 1 3/4" above the table so 520 holes would be just below the t slot top as is the 510.

There is no doubt in my mind that through screws will hold the temporary face more tightly against the fence face than brackets from the top of the fence. It the brackets are adequate, then all is well.

A simple carriage bolt and wing nut or knurled nut is far simpler and more gooder IMHO.

Again I would 'dislike' drilling holes in a 520 fence, but then again. . .

FWIW 1/4" holes are excessive. A smaller screw will hold adequately.
You can drill holes in your 520 fence but I'll not be doing that to mine.

The walls that we are discussing are 3/16" thick. Probably stout enough to withstand the pressure of thumbscrews without consequence.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35431
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:You can drill holes in your 520 fence but I'll not be doing that to mine.

The walls that we are discussing are 3/16" thick. Probably stout enough to withstand the pressure of thumbscrews without consequence.

Since I do not have a 520 fence, it is an academic mind exercise anyway. I probably would drill one if I did not have the other older models to use though. I do not see the holes as being anything other than 'an alteration:eek:'. They would be smaller than 1/4" probably.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
robinson46176
Platinum Member
Posts: 4182
Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)

Post by robinson46176 »

JPG40504 wrote:Tapped holes in a MVII fence? Curiosity is greatly 'aroused'.:confused:

I just went down and took a picture of the Mark VII fence to show the tapped holes. There are 4 of them along just below the top. They are 5/16"-18. The fence walls at that point appear to be between 3/16" to 1/4" thick. They appear to be drilled through both walls at once and tapped. I can't say without trying it and I don't have bolts and stuff moved in yet but I feel pretty certain that they were through tapped all in one operation and that a bolt started in one side will thread right on through both walls.

[ATTACH]16044[/ATTACH]

I'm pretty sure that you could attach a fence with countersunk bolts going through far enough to add a lock-nut (or self locking nut) gently tightened on the back side.
Bolts like this in the needed length.

[ATTACH]16043[/ATTACH]

.
Attachments
temp countersunk bolt.jpg
temp countersunk bolt.jpg (7 KiB) Viewed 2103 times
Shopsmith Mark VII fence.JPG
Shopsmith Mark VII fence.JPG (83.51 KiB) Viewed 2102 times
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35431
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:I just went down and took a picture of the Mark VII fence to show the tapped holes. There are 4 of them along just below the top. They are 5/16"-18. The fence walls at that point appear to be between 3/16" to 1/4" thick. They appear to be drilled through both walls at once and tapped. I can't say without trying it and I don't have bolts and stuff moved in yet but I feel pretty certain that they were through tapped all in one operation and that a bolt started in one side will thread right on through both walls.

[ATTACH]16044[/ATTACH]

I'm pretty sure that you could attach a fence with countersunk bolts going through far enough to add a lock-nut (or self locking nut) gently tightened on the back side.
Bolts like this in the needed length.

[ATTACH]16043[/ATTACH]

.
What is the hole spacing? 7 1/4, 3 5/8, 3 5/8?
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
greitz
Gold Member
Posts: 471
Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 4:46 pm
Location: SF Bay area, CA

Post by greitz »

The countersunk bolts used with the table insert will work with Shopsmith's T-nuts in the 520 fence side slot. The "help kit" contains a couple extra of those countersunk bolts.

Gary
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35431
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

greitz wrote:The countersunk bolts used with the table insert will work with Shopsmith's T-nuts in the 520 fence side slot. The "help kit" contains a couple extra of those countersunk bolts.

Gary
So you telling me the 520 side slots are t-slots the same as the two top ones? That changes most of what I have posted re drilling holes in a 520 fence. No need to do that!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Post Reply