Probably a dumb question but...
Moderator: admin
What's wrong with simply clamping a sacrificial fence to the Shopsmith fence? A couple C-clamps set high enough so the work can slide under them.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Sounds like a few people here would like to learn about a 520 fence.
They are many times more flexible for mounting things then the previous fences. With the 4 t-slots that allow the t-nuts to be used anywhere along the fence (not just at per-drilled hole locations like the older ones). (Of course the 510 style has the top t-slot as does the upgraded 500 fence so that has been an option for a while now.)
They are twice as thick/wide as the other fences.
Here is a view of the cross-section of the extrusion,
[ATTACH]16046[/ATTACH]
To better give you an idea of just how wide the fence is take a look below where I have a 3/4" piece of oak next to the fence and then a 3-1/2" bolt which would be required to use a "hole" mount.
[ATTACH]16047[/ATTACH]
Next is a picture of one of my fences that I leave a set of t-nuts on. In fact most of my fences have the t-nuts in place because it just so easy to slip them in place and tighten.
[ATTACH]16048[/ATTACH]
Of course some still might want to "drill" them but where do those holes go?
I guess the t-slots could have holes in them??? Fender washers??? Wonder how easy the second hole will be to find???
[ATTACH]16049[/ATTACH]
There is some room between the t-slots and the rod inside the extrusion lower down near the main table... yea I guess you could fit them in but it sure wasn't designed for that.
No pressure or worries if you do happen to mess yours up, the extrusion only costs $96.75 to replace it.
As for me I can not for the life of me think of any reason I would ever drill mine. The slots are a great addition in my book. I say embrace slots, they want to help you.
In conclusion take out a pocket watch and start swing it back and forth in front of your computer screen and repeat the following:
I am getting sleepy, I am getting sleepy
my eyes are getting heavy, my eyes are getting heavy
I can just keep them open for another few second while I read this next lines
When I wake up I will want slots on my rip fence and I will go and buy a new shopsmith to get them if that is what it takes. When I wake up I will love t-slots. I will never ever think about drilling my beloved 520 fence.
I will wake up refreshed and rested and go look for my shopsmith catalog to make out my order.....
I will wake on the count
3
2
1
They are many times more flexible for mounting things then the previous fences. With the 4 t-slots that allow the t-nuts to be used anywhere along the fence (not just at per-drilled hole locations like the older ones). (Of course the 510 style has the top t-slot as does the upgraded 500 fence so that has been an option for a while now.)
They are twice as thick/wide as the other fences.
Here is a view of the cross-section of the extrusion,
[ATTACH]16046[/ATTACH]
To better give you an idea of just how wide the fence is take a look below where I have a 3/4" piece of oak next to the fence and then a 3-1/2" bolt which would be required to use a "hole" mount.
[ATTACH]16047[/ATTACH]
Next is a picture of one of my fences that I leave a set of t-nuts on. In fact most of my fences have the t-nuts in place because it just so easy to slip them in place and tighten.
[ATTACH]16048[/ATTACH]
Of course some still might want to "drill" them but where do those holes go?
I guess the t-slots could have holes in them??? Fender washers??? Wonder how easy the second hole will be to find???
[ATTACH]16049[/ATTACH]
There is some room between the t-slots and the rod inside the extrusion lower down near the main table... yea I guess you could fit them in but it sure wasn't designed for that.
No pressure or worries if you do happen to mess yours up, the extrusion only costs $96.75 to replace it.
As for me I can not for the life of me think of any reason I would ever drill mine. The slots are a great addition in my book. I say embrace slots, they want to help you.
In conclusion take out a pocket watch and start swing it back and forth in front of your computer screen and repeat the following:
I am getting sleepy, I am getting sleepy
my eyes are getting heavy, my eyes are getting heavy
I can just keep them open for another few second while I read this next lines
When I wake up I will want slots on my rip fence and I will go and buy a new shopsmith to get them if that is what it takes. When I wake up I will love t-slots. I will never ever think about drilling my beloved 520 fence.
I will wake up refreshed and rested and go look for my shopsmith catalog to make out my order.....
I will wake on the count
3
2
1
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Sorry Red I was of impression you were familiar with the 520 fence. It is totally different and a huge improvement over the 510 fence. My brother has two 510's. The last time he was in my shop and we were using the 520 fence he clearly understood the difference. When you get a chance either visit a demo or someone near you who has one. I remember bringing home a 510 and experiencing the fence differences. I have no desire to belittle the 510 or anyone's equipment yet for this stumble bums level of ability, the 520 fence is a blessing. The 510 I bought was upgraded to a 520 within a month of owning it. Those T-nuts and slots are worth their weight in gold and used frequently in my shop. Incidentally I did purchase a set of U clamps for the 520 fence when I first began its use. Those camps have never been used and were clearly a waste of money. Again I apologize if I confused you. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
JPG40504 wrote:What is the hole spacing? 7 1/4, 3 5/8, 3 5/8?
Mark VII fence holes:
All measured from the front edge of the main table fence rail... (not ultra carefully measured)
the first hole (to center of hole) is at 2 1/2"
second hole is at 11 1/2"
third hole is at 15 1/2"
fourth hole is at 20"
I should look tomorrow to see if the table front rail extrusion is the same as the old Mark V's. It looks the same just looking at it.
.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Hmmmm! I would have assumed the spacing was the same as the 500/510 3 hole spacing with an extra hole between the last two.robinson46176 wrote:Mark VII fence holes:
All measured from the front edge of the main table fence rail... (not ultra carefully measured)
the first hole (to center of hole) is at 2 1/2"
second hole is at 11 1/2"
third hole is at 15 1/2"
fourth hole is at 20"
I should look tomorrow to see if the table front rail extrusion is the same as the old Mark V's. It looks the same just looking at it.
.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Gotta totally agree now that I understand the side slots are t-slots. That changes the whole picture and makes drilling holes a non consideration.
I was ignorantly under the impression that the side slots were merely slots, and not t-slots. My Bad!
It really makes much more sense that way. It also explains why the holes are not there to begin with!
Thank You Ed for clearing up my mis perception.
I was ignorantly under the impression that the side slots were merely slots, and not t-slots. My Bad!
It really makes much more sense that way. It also explains why the holes are not there to begin with!
Thank You Ed for clearing up my mis perception.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Gotta totally agree now that I understand the side slots are t-slots. That changes the whole picture and makes drilling holes a non consideration.
I was ignorantly under the impression that the side slots were merely slots, and not t-slots. My Bad!
It really makes much more sense that way. It also explains why the holes are not there to begin with!
Thank You Ed for clearing up my mis perception.
Now that I have been educated on the 520 fence - - Me too! All a person would need is a couple holes in a sacrificial fence, to allow a "T" slot screw into it. Don't even need length measurements - just height measurements. But still a clamping solution will work if "T" nuts are not available.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
charlese wrote:Now that I have been educated on the 520 fence - - Me too! All a person would need is a couple holes in a sacrificial fence, to allow a "T" slot screw into it. Don't even need length measurements - just height measurements. But still a clamping solution will work if "T" nuts are not available.
Clamp ok if not 'in the way'.

I cannot figger why L brackets and top t-slots were even considered if side t-slots are available.
Is it possible there are different versions of the 520 fence?
Ed's fence makes a lot of sense!!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Why Not Try These?
Here is what I use to clamp a wood fence to 520 Fence:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... e%20Clamps
Works good and can be used on many other items.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page ... e%20Clamps
Works good and can be used on many other items.