Electrical needs for shop?

goldeneagle · Post by **goldeneagle** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 8:19 pm

I have a 10x12 storage building that I am going to convert to my "wood working" shop. It is small, but the more space I have , the more it gets junked up. I have an electrician who will run a line from the house. I know he will have information, but looking to have some ideas before hand. I will be converting my 520 S/S to the Power Pro and probably run it on 220. I live in Colorado and will need heat. Thinking of a baseboard strip and using 220 on it.
Can I run the heat and S/S Power prow on the same 220 circuit? Or any ideas on heating? Then 2 circuits for light (for safety only), then how many circuits for auxiliary equipment? Will also put in a small 110 volt window A/C since it does get hot in the Summer. Lighting, probably some fluorescent fixtures. Would like lots of light for turning. I think LED's are getting better than using the CFL's. Would be interested in comments or any other thought anyone might have!
"I'm Pro Choice on Light Bulbs"

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:45 pm

Heating is my sport. Electric would be the most convienient if the power costs in Colorado are reasonable. Baseboards are out in my mind. A radiant heater will heat a 10x12 nicely and warm up the objects and tools in the room as well. Google radiant heaters-wall mounted or even one that comes with a stand so you can move it around when need be. I will try and attach a link here of one that we've used locally, they're pretty cool. Upping the cost you could go to a mini split, like a Mitsubishi system, they can heat or cool if you want. Even a p-tac unit like in a motel would work. You just frame in a sleeve that comes with it and you're done. I think you'lll end up needing a 20-30 amp 220 dedicated circuit for heat and your choise of another for the SS. Why go 220? Your electrician will end up running a small subpanel to your shop and his first question will be how much do you need out there based on what you have available, what you plan on running and probably codes as well. Bottom line, decide on fixtures and heat and oulets ect before he starts, provide him with all the specs and loads from the internet of actually purchasing and having the specs there on the job. You wouldn't want to be shy in the power department.
www.ufoheaters.com
model S15 or S30 and the stand
Let me know if you find something and I can check pricing and see if I can get it any cheaper here in Boise (work at an hvac dist). With freight and all it may be cheaper to get things there, but at least I can tell you if it's a good deal.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:02 pm

Golden Eagle,

Its nice to hear of another Shopsmith addict so close to home. I am located in Lakewood near Green Mountain. Last year I built a new shop which is serving me well. You are most welcome to call or pay me a visit for new ideas. My email is fjimp@earthlink.net

Electrical is truly important I used suggestions from other users and then had my architect and and engineer improve suggestions. For heating I used a suggestion from a fellow discussion group user and purchased a Reznor space heat that is suspended from the ceiling. This unit is more safe for a woodworking shop as it has a heating and separate distribution chambers. It is powered by natural gas. Give a shout if you want to get together. Jim

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 10:43 pm

Just an observation to all here. I would strongly suggest to not put a personal email address here. It would be better to exchange that info via PM. Can you edit it out and let those who wish to respond to you in a more private way? Thanks for protecting yourself.

kalynzoo · Post by **kalynzoo** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:29 am

After the Northridge Earthquake, when I had the oportunity to rebuild from scratch (yeah, the whole thing came down), I worked with the electrician to create my shop garage. No 220, everything is 110, I didn't see a need. There are three seperate plug circuits in the garage/shop, every other plug is on a different circuit. All are 20 amp. Two seperate light circuits. I have one 30 amp circuit on the exterior wall, but real close to the side door which I use to support my motorhome. Old Motorhome was 30amp, new one is 50amp, but it is plugged in for storage and to keep the frig on so 30 is fine, occassionally used as a guest room.
I'm really happy with the way the guy planned it, and I have never experience a flipped breaker or a brown out in the garage.
Hope this helps.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:33 am

swampgator wrote:Just an observation to all here. I would strongly suggest to not put a personal email address here. It would be better to exchange that info via PM. Can you edit it out and let those who wish to respond to you in a more private way? Thanks for protecting yourself.

Enable e-mails in your user control panel, then e-mails are possible without revealing your actual e-mail address. If you then want to privately reveal your e-mail address you can. A PM can accomplish the same thing.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:47 am

Have your electrician set ya up with a 100 amp service box. Cheaper now to put it in. Than to have it upped later. IF ya go with ground fault circuits, use the breaker kind.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 1:24 am

goldeneagle wrote:...Can I run the heat and S/S Power prow on the same 220 circuit?...

Is it possible? Yes. Is it legal? Not in WA, but I do knot know about CO. In WA, every 220 appliance is required to have it's own circuit.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:24 pm

a1gutterman wrote:Is it possible? Yes. Is it legal? Not in WA, but I do knot know about CO. In WA, every 220 appliance is required to have it's own circuit.

That mean ALL 20A appliances, or just 'fixed' ones or ones with a 'dedicated' branch?

In any event, tis a bad idea!

I was going to suggest a smaller sub-panel, but Beeg's suggestion may even be cheaper(100A boxes are more prevalent) Only cost increase would be breaker size and wire size and any installation differences.

Tis easier($$$) to add breakers etc. than to replace a panel(and wiring...) later.

P.S. 100A does seem a bit much for 120 ft².

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:10 pm

Back about 1970 I was selling appliances and we would regularly run into a house in town that was still on a 30 amp service for the whole house.

In spite of us always trying to be sure and ask about electric service there would be a misunderstanding now and then and we would arrive to install a new electric stove only to find a 30 amp service... Usually a service upgrade was going to cost a lot more than the stove did.
Entire farmsteads use to operate on a 60 amp service using all manner of electric equipment including feed grinders etc.
When we moved here in 1951 my father who was an electrician for several years after the war told the power company that the transformer was not big enough. They were sure it was and stubbornly refused to put up a bigger one until they had come out to repair the transformer breaker a few times.

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