diagnose me..

[JPG]

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=110556&postcount=33

That pix clearly shows the different eccentric versions.

The old eccentric has the set screw that presses against the idler shaft bearing(amodified water pump(well) bearing). The setscrew may have a point that centers the eccentric on a groove in the bearing. The top screw/washer prevents the eccentric from slipping out the end of the bore.

The new eccentric(like yours) does not have the set screw. The top screw and washer still acts to prevent the eccentric from slipping out the back, and the new screw(your broken one) prevents the newer idler shaft(regular bearings) from slipping from the eccentric bore.

The newer one is also split at the narrow wall.


P.S. A fender washer(large enough to catch both the eccentric and the bearing) will work with no drilling/tapping/screw removal..... <<<Nay! See below!

i.e. Top top one holds the eccentric in. and the newer one holds the bearing in. <<<< Not quite! See below!


P.S. those pix posted earlier would have made this much much simpler. We encourage pix as early as possible(like the bandsaw!).


P.P.S. The lock washer belongs under the nut, not the screw head. Yes my pix has it basackwards also.


Below: Almost correct. The eccentric would still need to be prevented from moving into the headstock. See post # 59 this thread.

[billmayo]

Ohhhhh, NOW I SEEE IT!

seeing this image explains a lot to me...



the "OLD" one being not important I can now see what actually broke. Can I just tap a new hole in it at worse? Like maybe the opposite side? What is the actual purpose of the bolt and washer? Is it holding in the bearing?

The screw in the newer eccentric serves the same purpose as the larger body washer I use. It prevents the idler shaft from moving outward and damaging the belt. The newer split eccentric really is a much better solution that allows the eccentric bolt to really hold the idler shaft bearing without needing a lot of torque on the bolt. It eliminated the set screw which can damage the idler shaft bearing by over tighten the set screw.

I used my metal cutting band saw to add the split to an older eccentric. The eccentric has a lot of spring action to where it grabbed the bandsaw blade toward the end of the cut and stopped the bandsaw. I had to wedge the cut to finish cutting and get the eccentric off the bandsaw blade. Then the eccentric almost closed on the cut. I believed I would have damaged the idler shaft bearing by trying to force the cut eccentric onto the idler shaft bearing bearing even with a wedge so I quit trying. One of many of my attempted modifications.

[dusty]

Maybe you guys know better than I because of your experience but I see these retainers a bit different than I think is being stated.

In rele's photos (the ones showing the broken screw), it seems clear to me that the washer at 12 o'clock prevents the eccentric from creeping out of the headstock.

Conversely, the screw and washer in the eccentric at 8 o'clock prevents the eccentric from creeping into the headstock.

Placing a larger washer at 12 o'clock will not do that.

My theory is based on a premise that the bearing is not going to move on the shaft and therefore it's position (and the shaft's position) is fixed once the bolt is tightened (securing the position of the eccentric).

[rele]

Okay folks!

My buddy just left, he TAPPED the hole and put a new bolt in it..... HOWEVER!!

He pulled the eccentric out and took it home, slid it out off the idler shaft. He came back and put the eccentric back into place, BUT the idler shaft isn't setting into place yet. Seems it needs to go back another half an inch..... WHERE DO I GO NOW?

[JPG]

Okay folks!

My buddy just left, he TAPPED the hole and put a new bolt in it..... HOWEVER!!

He pulled the eccentric out and took it home, slid it out off the idler shaft. He came back and put the eccentric back into place, BUT the idler shaft isn't setting into place yet. Seems it needs to go back another half an inch..... WHERE DO I GO NOW?

I think you need to align the front bearing to the eccentric bore. I guess the eccentric is stopping by butting against the front bearing.

[JPG]

Maybe you guys know better than I because of your experience but I see these retainers a bit different than I think is being stated.

In rele's photos (the ones showing the broken screw), it seems clear to me that the washer at 12 o'clock prevents the eccentric from creeping out of the headstock.

Conversely, the screw and washer in the eccentric at 8 o'clock prevents the eccentric from creeping into the headstock.

Placing a larger washer at 12 o'clock will not do that.

My theory is based on a premise that the bearing is not going to move on the shaft and therefore it's position (and the shaft's position) is fixed once the bolt is tightened (securing the position of the eccentric).

You have the new eccentric in hand. Does the 'new' screw head extend beyond both the outer surface and the bore? If so it will prevent both eccentric drift in and bearing drift out.
I notice that yours has a washer. Did you add that, or was is it OEM?

I see that with the split in the eccentric, when the 'ear' screw is tightened, it will also 'squeeze' the bearing in the eccentric bore, so your point re bearing/shaft movement seems valid.

However if all this squeezing were adequate, neither of the screws is needed. I think they are both needed.

[rele]

Okay, here is where I am at right now...

You can see a misalignment with the pulleys, I think?


and here are a couple of shots showing where I am right now, the eccentric won't go all the way back yet, and the bearing on the idler shaft.... well you ALL know more about it than me.




EDIT: here is another pic, showing more zoomed out.

[dusty]

The bearing should NOT protrude outside of the headstock as it does in these last couple photos. The bearing is secure on the shaft so the shaft is also out of place. This clearly creates a belt alignment issue.

Get the tension off the belts, push the bearing and shaft back where they belong and install the keeper screw and washer.

I believe that your alignment problem will then be resolved.

[dusty]

[quote="JPG40504"]You have the new eccentric in hand. Does the 'new' screw head extend beyond both the outer surface and the bore? If so it will prevent both eccentric drift in and bearing drift out.
I notice that yours has a washer. Did you add that, or was is it OEM?

I see that with the split in the eccentric, when the 'ear' screw is tightened, it will also 'squeeze' the bearing in the eccentric bore, so your point re bearing/shaft movement seems valid.

However if all this squeezing were adequate, neither of the screws is needed. I think they are both needed.]
I do not recall whether the eccentric came with that screw or not. I think it did because I do not have that sort of screw in my parts collection.

BTW The eccentric fits on the old shaft and bearing as well.

[JPG]

Okay, here is where I am at right now...

You can see a misalignment with the pulleys, I think?


and here are a couple of shots showing where I am right now, the eccentric won't go all the way back yet, and the bearing on the idler shaft.... well you ALL know more about it than me.




EDIT: here is another pic, showing more zoomed out.

1) notice the location of the poly-v belt in the description below the first pix. http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... #post40961

2) I would insert the shaft/bearings into the eccentric, than slip it into the headstock bore from the inside.

However it your case, I assume you are attempting to slide the eccentric over the bearings while the shaft is in the headstock.

I question whether the rear bearing (and the front) are positioned on the idler shaft properly. I believe they should each be right against a shoulder on the shaft.

If you are trying to insert the eccentric over the bearings, why is it 'past' the rear bearing?

Are the bearings secured by snap rings?????????? I do not have this version of hardware.