router question (beginner)

[philco]

I would like to use my Shopsmith Mark V Model 510 as a router, but I do not want to buy a separate router machine. Is this possible? The following is my first attempt to use the machine as a router:

I placed the motor in the drill press (vertical) position and the main table's Table Insert was removed. The motor arbor was then positioned over the hole created by the removal of the Table Insert.

The next step was to create an additional fence, which would straddle the arbor. I took a straight board and notched out a 2" cavity to accommodate the arbor. This fence I clamped in position such that its straight edge passes through the rotational axis of the router bit.

The second fence is the regular fence that comes with the Shopsmith, and it is on the other edge of the work to be routed. So I now have the workpiece contrained between the two fences, and all I have to do is feed the workpiece through.

The problem is that the work bogs down in the process, and the routed edge is pitted and torn. The type of router bit is a 3/16" Ogee. I used only one pass of the work through the process, but the work binds and bogs down. The ogee bit is brand-new.

I have been online to attempt to find a fence that would allow me to use the Shopsmith as I have described above, but no product description attends the pictures of the products. One of the products found in my online search was the Shopsmith Mark VII Shaper Sander Fence 7, but I do not know if this would fill the bill. If you could guide me, I would be appreciative.

Thank you very much.

[a1gutterman]

Hi philco,
SS does make a fence and a guard and tables to use the Mark V as a router. You will also want the speed increaser; it helps, but...... The bogging down that you are referring to is common with the SS as a router. When using the SS as a router you must make multiple passes cutting very little material with each pass. Using the SS as a router is doable, but IMHO, a real router is better. Hope this helps.http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/SPD06/rm_routerchuckshield.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/productindex.htm#routingmortising

[a1gutterman]

...........The second fence is the regular fence that comes with the Shopsmith, and it is on the other edge of the work to be routed. So I now have the workpiece contrained between the two fences, and all I have to do is feed the workpiece through.........

If I were you, I would not run your piece between two fences. Seems dangerous to me. You could opt to use feather boards if you really want the extra support:) .

[dusty]

Yes, you can route with the Shopsmith but as already stated, the maximum rpm of the SS is really inadequate for routing.

A speed increaser helps a great deal.

However, if you are going to route, take multiple passes to get to the finished depth of cut and do not feed the stock into the router as fast.

Use all of your safety devices.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... shield.htm

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rfence.htm

This is something you might think about but it requires a router. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rtable.htm

For your browsing pleasure, load the pdf files: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/SPD06/

[dusty]

Yes, you can route with the Shopsmith but as already stated, the maximum rpm of the SS is really inadequate for routing.

A speed increaser helps a great deal.

However, if you are going to route, takes multiple passes to get to the finished depth of cut and do not feed the stock into the router as fast.

Use all of your safety devices.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... shield.htm

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rfence.htm

This is something you might think about but it requires a router.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... rtable.htm

[reible]

Hi and welcome!

A couple of points I want to make. First you didn't say how you were mounting your router bit. I hope you have the router chuck and are not using the drill chuck... that is a no no.

The maxiumn rpm of the shopsmith is still way slower then the slowest speed of a router. Router run from say 8,000 to 30,000 rpm. Shopsmith with out the speed increaser is 5,200 rpm. So if you go the route of getting a speed increaser to get up to 10,000 rpm and all the other things you need for the shopsmith to make it close to a router you will be spend a lot of money... and still only have a system that is a table router.

You do have some ability to do routing with what you have (assuming you have the router chuck). As was mentioned you will need to take very light cuts, and you may want to invest in triple wing cutters. Most common router bits have two-flutes so you end up getting 50% more cuts with these bits... while I haven't tried this at least in theory this should help.

You will also want to make a fence of some sort.... (maybe what you have will work but it wasn't all that clear to me as to what it really looks like). You must also make sure you are feeding the correct direction... and on top of all this the grain of the wood also plays a large factor in how smooth a cut you can get. For most applications either feather boards or nothing is better then trying to have to fixed fences... there are exceptions to this but as a general rule it is better not to force between fixed fences.

You also will need to learn to listen to the machine, if it sounds like it is slowing down or stalling something is wrong... a major danger sign.

If you have the PTWFE go do some reading on the router operations... if you don't have the book order it now, you really should have it.

If you care to post a picture of the fence set up we can have a look at it and give you our opinions as to how it might fare as to its functions.

One last point. The router is the cheap part of routing. Some bits go for only say $15 while other are in the $50 range. So by the time you get a decent collection together of say 50 bits you can already have spent $750 even with the cheaper bits. An OK router can be had for less then $200...

[curiousgeorge]

Hello philco, Welcome to the forum!
This is just my opinion, but I think you would be way more satisfied with a table mounted router. What you are attempting to do will never give you the quality of work you are expecting and in the end you will end up spending as much or more trying to get there than just buying a router. I would suggest a combination plunge/fixed base router. That way it can be used in hand or table mounted. The best of both worlds. For example Sears has a good combo set for less than $200.

[solicitr]

Philco, I'll second what George said, but perhaps not his purchase recommendation. A router is one of those tools where you really do get what you pay for, and two units which appear superficially comparable may be vastly different in quality, accuracy and durability. For not much more money than the Craftsman you can get a plunge/fixed combo from Porter-Cable or Bosch either of which will give you much, much better results. Milwaukee makes excellent routers, but not to my knowledge a combo package. Avoid Ryobi (I can testify to this); and buying a 'handyman' brand like Black & Decker or Skil is being penny-wise and pound-foolish.

And don't skimp on your bits!

[a1gutterman]

[quote="solicitr"]Philco, I'll second what George said, but perhaps not his purchase recommendation. A router is one of those tools where you really do get what you pay for, and two units which appear superficially comparable may be vastly different in quality, accuracy and durability. For not much more money than the Craftsman you can get a plunge/fixed combo from Porter-Cable or Bosch either of which will give you much, much better results. Milwaukee makes excellent routers, but not to my knowledge a combo package. Avoid Ryobi (I can testify to this)]
Porter Cable is a good brand. Black and Decker owns it.

[al_killian]

While SS claims to be able to do routing, there speed increser is way to slow. Buy a good 2hp router and be done with it or if it will be used in the table all the time get a 3hp or larger.