reible wrote:Would mind taking a picture of your "b" showing the "toggle switch at the 12:00 position"?
Ed
Then the next question is, Where is the switch on an 'A' headstock.
I think that makes sense only to distinguish it from a 'C' headstock.
The square switch/hole is a better distinction between 'C' and 'B', 'A'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I do not want to complicate the discussion, but would we say 12 o'clock = on position and 6 o'clock = off position ?
I know it would not do anything to distinguish A , B or C.
May be I do not understand the subtleties of this discussion.
I am just trying to understand ....
On the pictures the toggle switches look all the same ...
camerio wrote:I do not want to complicate the discussion, but would we say 12 o'clock = on position and 6 o'clock = off position ?
I know it would not do anything to distinguish A , B or C.
May be I do not understand the subtleties of this discussion.
I am just trying to understand ....
On the pictures the toggle switches look all the same ...
Under normal circumstances, pushing the toogle switch "UP" would turn the Mark 5 ON. Conversely, pushing it down would turn it OFF.
However, that presupposes that the switch was put in with the ON position up (at 12o'clock).
On questions like this make no assumptions, take no chances and avoid unwanted circumstance.
Because of questions like this, I believe that everyone working on equipments like the Shopsmith gear should have at least minimum nowledge of how to use a multimeter.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Here is a picture of my toggle switch ...
I bought new and it was marked on the bill of sale in Oct 1988 as a Mark 510
The label says Mark V model number 555510 and then the serial number.
Does it makes it a A - B or C
camerio wrote:Here is a picture of my toggle switch ...
I bought new and it was marked on the bill of sale in Oct 1988 as a Mark 510
The label says Mark V model number 555510 and then the serial number.
Does it makes it a A - B or C
FWIW The switch depicted here is, by way of thinking, set at 6 o'clock. In this position, the Mark 5 should be "OFF".
If it is not, loosen the nut that holds it in place, rotate the switch 180° and reinstall it.
I don't have an example of this headstock to look at. Is there any sort of retainer that keeps the switch from rotating in its position.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
No, no its alright, it is in the right position and the machine is off in that position.
I am just trying to comprehend the A - B and C head stock, that's all.
camerio wrote:No, no its alright, it is in the right position and the machine is off in that position.
I am just trying to comprehend the A - B and C head stock, that's all.
Take a good look at the last pix in post 22. That is an "A" headstock.
Yours is a "B" headstock.
Notice the top of the speed control circle is cut away on the "A" headstock. That cutout allows the interlock plate(seen in the greenie pix in the same post) that is mounted under the switch nut access to the back of the speed indicator dial. That plate must be depressed to adjust the speed above saw-joint.
The "C" headstock has the square hole mounted safety switch with the removable actuator.
P.S. Both the "A" and "B" headstocks have protective ears to the sides of the switch. They prevent inadvertent turning on, but allow the switch handle to protrude above the ears for easy turning off. So up is on, down is off. Later " B" castings have holes in the ears to allow locking the switch off.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Not to complicate things but just to have similar information in one spot here is the switch (with locking key) from the original Mark VII:
[ATTACH]16438[/ATTACH]
I also have one of the accessory locking switches (separate utility box) that I took off of one of my Mark V's. I don't find a pic of it and it is not where I am right now. I'll try to get a picture of it later.
Added note: I believe most (if not all) of the import knock-offs had a push-button switch down low on the headstock.
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Attachments
Mark VII key and switch.JPG (93.52 KiB) Viewed 2038 times
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Do the reverse and forward keys connect to relays that actually do the power switching OR is the power switching accomplished by the switches.
I really wonder why this feature was abandoned in the transition to the early Mark 5? I never read about owners having power switching problems which leads me to conclude that it was not a reliability/dependability issue.
Now, think about it. If they had carried that reversibility feature through, half of the PowerPro's thunder would be lost.
It also seems curious to me that of the three motor manufacturers, Emerson's is the only one that is not reversible. They had to design in the non-reversible feature.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.