Remotes for your DC

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:40 pm

Here's a few for you guys that have a 2hp or smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQRHMM/ref ... pe_vfe_dt2

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008X5D5/ref ... pe_vfe_dt3

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020ML76M/ref ... pe_vfe_dt4

I have one that I found at an after Christmas sale a few years ago. It's rated at 15 amps. My DC only pulls 14 on start up.

ryanbp01 · Post by **ryanbp01** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:01 pm

Gene Howe wrote:Here's a few for you guys that have a 2hp or smaller.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQRHMM/ref ... pe_vfe_dt2

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008X5D5/ref ... pe_vfe_dt3

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0020ML76M/ref ... pe_vfe_dt4

I have one that I found at an after Christmas sale a few years ago. It's rated at 15 amps. My DC only pulls 14 on start up.

The middle one sure looks familiar!:rolleyes:

BPR

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:44 pm

I find it interesting that the current capacity of all these remotes (not just those linked here) is so difficult to determine. If I was going to install one, I would want to know its rated capacity. I bet most are 15amp - which would be great for the dust collector but might not be so good on the Mark V.

ryanbp01 · Post by **ryanbp01** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:15 pm

dusty wrote:I find it interesting that the current capacity of all these remotes (not just those linked here) is so difficult to determine. If I was going to install one, I would want to know its rated capacity. I bet most are 15amp - which would be great for the dust collector but might not be so good on the Mark V.

According to my remote instructions, the remote is to be used only on the DC, not the Mark V.

BPR

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:20 pm

ryanbp01 wrote:According to my remote instructions, the remote is to be used only on the DC, not the Mark V.

BPR

I would like to have a switch, on my Mark Vs, that is located out by the infeed edge on the main table. I have often thought about using a remote on/off control to accomplish this. I have not found one that I like for this application and I would prefer one rated at 20 amps.

The remote control to which you refer in this post, did you buy that from Shopsmith.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:26 pm

As forgetful and often negligent as I am, I don't think I want any remote connected to any saw.

Those of sounder mind might use an amp probe to determine the start amps on the MKV. But....the idea scares the heck outta me!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 4:42 pm

Gene Howe wrote:As forgetful and often negligent as I am, I don't think I want any remote connected to any saw.
Those of sounder mind might use an amp probe to determine the start amps on the MKV. But....the idea scares the heck outta me!

I understand your concern. The remote that I am thinking about would actually not be a remote. It would be a wireless switch mounted in a manner that would be compatible to the Shopsmith. The question becomes where to install the wireless switch if/when I find a suitable control unit.

As for start current, I know what that is. I have a video on uTube that shows the start voltage and start current fluctuations of one of my Mark Vs.

If you go watch this, be aware that this Mark V is operating on a 14 gauge, 15 amp circuit. I have kicked the breaker but not during a proper startup. Starting with the blade in a bind is not a good thing. It necessitates a walk to the main breaker panel.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:25 pm

It used to be fairly common especially in smaller factories, sawmills and similar shops to mount a lever operated disconnect (knife switch with fuse/s) somewhere, often overhead) and run a long rod horizontally across the room (often through screw eyes) so you could just reach up and stop and start a piece of equipment from any point up to some some distance away. Sometimes the rod was hung down on drop supports. In my basement shop I could reach one without having to drop it down more than a few inches. At least with a mechanical link the batteries would not be dead every whip-stitch.

Another good simple set up is the system used for lights back in the late 1950's / early 1960's where you had relays in the light fixtures and all that ran to the switches on the wall were low voltage wires like a door bell. Several types of switches were available as well as relays of differing load capacity. A lot of those systems were installed on farmsteads about that time for turning remote (barns, grain bins, livestock facilities etc.) lights on and off or at times even starting / stopping machinery.
My father and I wired the house that I gave our son a few years ago in 1959 and it was all done that way. It worked very well for a long time then the relays finally started failing and our son was rewiring / upgrading most of the house at the same time he was building a major addition on the back of it and he just changed it all to conventional wiring at that time. He was concerned about finding components that would fit 20 years on down the road and he had many walls open anyway.

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ryanbp01 · Post by **ryanbp01** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 10:07 am

The remote control to which you refer in this post, did you buy that from Shopsmith.[/QUOTE]

Yes, I did (it looks very similar). I just thought of something: How about a remote which automatically come on when you turn on the SS and turns off a few seconds after you turn the machine off?

BPR

jm51 · Post by **jm51** » Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:45 am

Wouldn't this be more convenient?

http://www.amazon.com/i-socket-110m-Too ... roduct_top