510 Quill tolerance/run out

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mwhizz
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510 Quill tolerance/run out

Post by mwhizz »

Just got a 1996 510 and was cleaning & doing alinement could not get the table square with any of my 10" high dollar RED saw blades or any of my three sanding disks... best I could do was about 0.010 using a dial indicator with magnet on the miter Gage bar. Just glad it was cheap!
I have a 1986 Mark 5 that is with in 0.002-0.005 on the table to blade. The 510 also has more noise & vibration. So I checked the shaft with the drill chuck & 1/2 bar stock 2-3" long, the run out is about 0.030 & there is some bearing play. What is normal for run out? Not sure if it needs bearings or if the shaft is bent. the person I got it from was turning BIG stuff 10-12" tree trunks 6-10 long from what I saw laying around. Can I rebuild the Quill or do I need A new one from Shopsmith or is there other options. Looking forward to making saw dust the fence/table is far better that my Mark 5.
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

The 86 version is a 2 bearing quill? You should not be seeing .03 of runout on any of these machines. .005 is expected and .001 would be exceptional.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

With a 2 bearing quill I would think 0.03 run out impossible unless the shaft was bent.(or missing some balls!)

Question is, does it move side to side(bearing slop) or wobble(bent).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mwhizz
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Post by mwhizz »

There is shaft movement. Not sure if it is just bearings or if the shaft is bent too. So How far can I go rebuilding a quill on my own? Would it be better to just get a new Quill from Shopsmith?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mwhizz wrote:There is shaft movement. Not sure if it is just bearings or if the shaft is bent too. So How far can I go rebuilding a quill on my own? Would it be better to just get a new Quill from Shopsmith?

Only you can answer that. How comfortable are you at replacing bearings.

For starters, I would take it apart and determine what is causing the problem, then decide on corrective action.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

It sounds like a bad quill (as you are concluding) but I would do one more check. Swap quills. If the runout is now bad on the other machine, it is time to order bearings.
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

I would suggest changing the bearings as a first option. The bearings are not expensive. The quill shaft can then be checked for straightness before reassembly. If the shaft is bent it may be possible for a GOOD local machine shop to straighten it. If it can not be straightened I think that SS may sell a new shaft and the new bearings can be used on it. You will have to check with CS for that option.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

wa2crk wrote:I would suggest changing the bearings as a first option. The bearings are not expensive. The quill shaft can then be checked for straightness before reassembly. If the shaft is bent it may be possible for a GOOD local machine shop to straighten it. If it can not be straightened I think that SS may sell a new shaft and the new bearings can be used on it. You will have to check with CS for that option.
Bill V
You can usually tell if a part is a repair part by viewing the illustrated parts list. If the bearings and the shaft showup below the Quill Assembly - then you can buy them. If they don't break out, you have to buy the next higher assembly.

Check out 518210 in the followinglink.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Remember, there are variations to the 2 bearing quill shafts and bearings!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Remember, there are variations to the 2 bearing quill shafts and bearings!
OKAY, I have heard that before. I have two machines with two bearing quills. I know which machine is the oldest - that is easy because of the on/off switches.

I have the two quills laying out on the bench but don't know which one goes with which machine. How do I know?

Within the category of "two bearing quill assembly", are there different part numbers and if there are, what are the differences?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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