Revisiting the old SPT drive project

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robinson46176
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Revisiting the old SPT drive project

Post by robinson46176 »

We discussed this a bit a good while back but I am working on it again and so far have not found the old thread.

I am still looking for a good quick safe way to drive SPT's then disconnect them totally and instantly without having to move the headstock at all and reconnect the same way.
One day this week I ran across the unsatisfactory 2 piece coupler I made quite some time ago. It was a regular coupler cut in half with a left hand thread bolt in one half and a left hand thread nut in the other (coarse threads). I just didn't like the result. Not the answer...
This is one of those things where there can be a number of correct answers and the choice between them may be up to individual circumstance and equipment.
I am working on several possibilities quite different from each other.
As a lifetime farmer I tend to draw from that experience first. It's kind of like the saying that if you are standing in the middle of a room full of stuff holding a hammer that everything starts looking like a nail. :)
On most farm machines that are ran by a tractor they are most often coupled either by flat belt (fairly obsolete today) or PTO shaft. A tumbling bar with a universal joint on each end. Normally one end stays attached to the implement and is coupled to the tractor by extending the other end (telescopes in the middle) and sliding it over the spline shaft on the tractor. There are several different ways to keep the end on the tractor shaft.
This is typical:
[ATTACH]16458[/ATTACH]

Something like this one should work OK and is much much smaller than the one on the tractor. These can also be made up with safety slip clutches in the line. In using something like this you would add a hanger hook to the SPT so you could swing the shaft aside and hang it off to one side when disconnected:
[ATTACH]16459[/ATTACH]

I have more ideas but will put them on additional messages.


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Attachments
temp PTO-shaft.jpg
temp PTO-shaft.jpg (34.5 KiB) Viewed 797 times
temp Universal_Joints_Telescoping_Spline.jpg
temp Universal_Joints_Telescoping_Spline.jpg (13.4 KiB) Viewed 765 times
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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JPG
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De couplable spt drive

Post by JPG »

╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »



Thanks JPG, I knew we had discussed this before... There was also an earlier discussion where we talked about a clutch between the headstock and SPT but I couldn't find it either. I was having some clutch thoughts this week as well. In this case I was thinking about my use of a mini where the headstock would never be moved on the way tubes and the SPT would always be the bandsaw.
One thought was a simple connect / disconnect (as opposed to a friction clutch) of 2 disk about like the small faceplate. One, the driven disk permanently mounted on the bandsaw shaft would have a series of holes like an index plate and the other (driving disk) a single "poppet" lock pin (correct term?) like the lock pin used to direct drive a metal lathe arbor when the "back gear" is disconnected (most common status). In this case the holes in the driven disk should be a fair amount larger the the diameter of the lock pin to allow for tiny alignment errors.
In this picture of a small metal lathe drive line I found Googling, the arrow points to the poppet pin you push in or pull out to couple / uncouple the large gear from the belt pulley to the left of it. I'm sure of course that those who are familiar with metal lathes knew when I started what I am talking about but it can be hard to describe to those not familiar...
[ATTACH]16467[/ATTACH]

Even simpler would be a simple Lovejoy coupler and mounting one half full time on the headstock left stub and the other on the bandsaw shaft. Then to disconnect you would loosen the set screw on the bandsaw half and slide it and the spider to the left and re-snug it so it could not move to the right from vibration. The downside is needing a tool but it would be simple and would be ideal for minor alignment variations. BTW, the halves can be bought in different shaft sizes for each half.
[ATTACH]16468[/ATTACH]

There are literally dozens and dozens of possibilities and I will putter along with a few of them here.


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Attachments
lathe back gear pin.jpeg
lathe back gear pin.jpeg (63.77 KiB) Viewed 907 times
temp lovejoy coupler.jpg
temp lovejoy coupler.jpg (20.56 KiB) Viewed 708 times
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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