What to do with a tree?
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What to do with a tree?
My son is planning to cut down a tree or 2 in his back garden as they are blocking light. First to go will be a Silver Birch about 7" maximum diameter.
I'm quite dubious about this wrt safety, have heard a few stories of tree felling gone wrong. His plan is to cut it in 3 parts so the top part is only 4" or so diameter. He'll be using a newly purchased handsaw which I think is the wrong tool for the job, it has fine teeth.
Any advice on safe practice welcome.
What do I do with the wood once it is felled?
I'm quite dubious about this wrt safety, have heard a few stories of tree felling gone wrong. His plan is to cut it in 3 parts so the top part is only 4" or so diameter. He'll be using a newly purchased handsaw which I think is the wrong tool for the job, it has fine teeth.
Any advice on safe practice welcome.
What do I do with the wood once it is felled?
I recommend that he not fell a tree unless he has had experience at doing that or has had instruction (including safety) from an experienced person. It is a very dangerous activity which could easily result in serious injury and death (yes death). I repeat, don't do it until you know what you are doing and have experience.
Secondly, even though a lot of trees were felled before WWII with hand saws, they were special saws just for that purpose and certainly didn't have "fine teeth." Today the standard is using a chain saw (a dangerous tool in of itself) but properly used can be faster, easier, and (in the right hands) safer.
So, the only safe practice advice I can give is to learn how do do the job safely from someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen too many serious injuries and even deaths from the improper felling of trees. I've felled a number of them and there are some that I wouldn't tackle on a bet.
Secondly, even though a lot of trees were felled before WWII with hand saws, they were special saws just for that purpose and certainly didn't have "fine teeth." Today the standard is using a chain saw (a dangerous tool in of itself) but properly used can be faster, easier, and (in the right hands) safer.
So, the only safe practice advice I can give is to learn how do do the job safely from someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen too many serious injuries and even deaths from the improper felling of trees. I've felled a number of them and there are some that I wouldn't tackle on a bet.
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
- JPG
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jm51 wrote:My son is planning to cut down a tree or 2 in his back garden as they are blocking light. First to go will be a Silver Birch about 7" maximum diameter.
I'm quite dubious about this wrt safety, have heard a few stories of tree felling gone wrong. His plan is to cut it in 3 parts so the top part is only 4" or so diameter. He'll be using a newly purchased handsaw which I think is the wrong tool for the job, it has fine teeth.
Any advice on safe practice welcome.
What do I do with the wood once it is felled?
Not how I would do it!
Yes the saw is not proper! It will wear him out before the tree(or the top)falls.
I would cut off all branches first except the top that are too high.
It separates into 'parts' much more easily when horizontal on the ground.
Now if he thinks a fine toothed hand saw is the 'tool for the job', then I seriously doubt his ability to successfully pull this off safely!!!!!!
I share your concern!
Fortunately you have described a 'small' tree!
Last but not least, control direction of felling by force applied in that direction. Not by human force however!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- terrydowning
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I'm having an estimate done today to remove 2 or 3 overgrown and rather pesky pine trees. I hope to get some really nice wood out of it of all goes well. I would never attempt to bring them down myself. The safest way to bring down a tree or two is to hire a professional that is bonded and insured. This is more expensive than some of the cheaper landscape services but as mentioned taking down trees is dangerous and unpredictable on the best days and lethal on the bad ones. You don't want any injury or property damage coming back on your insurance. Hire a pro and get it done safely.
7" birch could make for some nice projects. Keep some bowl blanks out of that!
7" birch could make for some nice projects. Keep some bowl blanks out of that!
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Terry
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Public Photos of Projects
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foxtrapper
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A 7" tree is pretty small, and easily managed on a drop. Can be done with a conventional hand saw, though something like a bow saw used for christmas trees would be better.
Two main ways to drop a tree that sized. One "smart", one not. Lets start with the not smart way.
Cut from the opposite side you want to drop it to. Start cutting, push the tree, and gradually it tips over on the hinge and falls down. This is just how everyone cuts down their christmas tree. It works.
Smart way is to notch on the side you want to fell towards. Then cut the relief on the backside. Use a wedge to push it over with. Fancy, overkill for most 7" trees, but it is the proper way. There are some very good instructions on any of the chainsaw web sites (stihl, Dolmar, Husqvarna, echo, etc). As well many good examples on youtube.
Two main ways to drop a tree that sized. One "smart", one not. Lets start with the not smart way.
Cut from the opposite side you want to drop it to. Start cutting, push the tree, and gradually it tips over on the hinge and falls down. This is just how everyone cuts down their christmas tree. It works.
Smart way is to notch on the side you want to fell towards. Then cut the relief on the backside. Use a wedge to push it over with. Fancy, overkill for most 7" trees, but it is the proper way. There are some very good instructions on any of the chainsaw web sites (stihl, Dolmar, Husqvarna, echo, etc). As well many good examples on youtube.
- JPG
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Do be aware of upper growth that may cause the center of gravity to occur on the 'back side'. It will fall the direction that the CG occurs off a vertical line unless the CG is 'pulled' by external force(come-along).foxtrapper wrote:A 7" tree is pretty small, and easily managed on a drop. Can be done with a conventional hand saw, though something like a bow saw used for christmas trees would be better.
Two main ways to drop a tree that sized. One "smart", one not. Lets start with the not smart way.
Cut from the opposite side you want to drop it to. Start cutting, push the tree, and gradually it tips over on the hinge and falls down. This is just how everyone cuts down their christmas tree. It works.
Smart way is to notch on the side you want to fell towards. Then cut the relief on the backside. Use a wedge to push it over with. Fancy, overkill for most 7" trees, but it is the proper way. There are some very good instructions on any of the chainsaw web sites (stihl, Dolmar, Husqvarna, echo, etc). As well many good examples on youtube.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have to agree with anmius. If you are a greenhorn with a chainsaw and felling trees, get some help from someone that is experienced in saw use and tree removal. Just like shop equipment, a chainsaw is very dangerous. And, in some situations can even be more hazardous that a table saw.
Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office. Often times they can recommend a chainsaw safety course in your area.
Check with your local Cooperative Extension Office. Often times they can recommend a chainsaw safety course in your area.
jm51 wrote:He'll be using a newly purchased handsaw which I think is the wrong tool for the job, it has fine teeth.
May as well swap that out with a coping saw.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
I agree with ANMIUS. You said the tree is 7" in diameter but the main issue is the height. Planning to cut it with a handsaw sporting "fine teeth" is not the best way to cut green wood. Without more information I would suggest getting someone experienced in felling trees near structures to do the job. Too many varibles and too many possible hazards to be considered. Not knowing the hazards can be fatal.
I cannot read a tree felling story without remembering a young fellow who cut down a large maple tree in the Pastors yard. He wanted to be absolutely certain it would fall in the proper direction. He tied a long rope to the top third of the tree trunk and the other end to his new Ford car. He pulled the car forward enough to create tension on the rope, then cut the tree trunk with a chainsaw. Do I need to tell anyone what the tree landed upon? Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.