It is not the 'run' current that causes switches to 'wear out', but rather the breaking of the inductive current when switched 'off'. Switches rated for higher current have larger contact points. Switches with a higher hp rating have larger contacts.
As mentioned above, the last points to open(of a parallel pair) will experience the arcing that deteriorates the switch.
Splitting Hot Leads to both sides of Toggle Switch
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BuffaloBill
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Any experience with this switch?
Bill Mayo:
Locally (Calgary) I couldn't find the one you are pointing out in your previous post. What they had that I could get my hands on right away was this:
http://www.theswitchmaster.com/philmore-mfg._30-345.html?p=16454078
Have you used these? Any Issues?
Currently have the motor wired as parallel circuits through the switch and it tested fine last night. I guess we'll see in the long run, may take a logn time to find out.
Cody
Locally (Calgary) I couldn't find the one you are pointing out in your previous post. What they had that I could get my hands on right away was this:
http://www.theswitchmaster.com/philmore-mfg._30-345.html?p=16454078
Have you used these? Any Issues?
Currently have the motor wired as parallel circuits through the switch and it tested fine last night. I guess we'll see in the long run, may take a logn time to find out.
Cody
Cody Wollen
Calgary Alberta
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- dusty
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BuffaloBill wrote:Bill Mayo:
Locally (Calgary) I couldn't find the one you are pointing out in your previous post. What they had that I could get my hands on right away was this:
http://www.theswitchmaster.com/philmore-mfg._30-345.html?p=16454078
Have you used these? Any Issues?
Currently have the motor wired as parallel circuits through the switch and it tested fine last night. I guess we'll see in the long run, may take a logn time to find out.
Cody
If it fails, it won't be because it was not rated high enough. It is a 20amp switch with the proper size and shape. I'll bet on the switch lasting a long time. I would do the same even if you wired it normally.
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dusty wrote:If it fails, it won't be because it was not rated high enough. It is a 30amp switch with the proper size and shape. I'll bet on the switch lasting a long time. I would do the same even if you wired it normally.
I agree it is rated adequately, but is 20A at 125v.
More to the point, 1 1/2 HP!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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The leprechaun who also changed the color from black(30) to (20)!:rolleyes::Ddusty wrote:Who said 30amp?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange