Once you get the arbor apart you could get the Shopsmith blade sharpened at a local sharpening shop if it's not damaged. If they are not too busy they should be able to provide same day service.
JPG40504 wrote:After soaking in evaporust over night, you will stop thinking about getting a new arbor!
Do keep it enclosed. It will evaporate!:eek:
You did not state what the rusted arbor size is.
If 1 1/4 from 55 do realize the nut has a left hand thread.
Ahh, this would be wise information to know! So Turn left= tighten, turn right=loosen. I've been going after it with some CLR and WD-40 for a couple days, so I'll find out tonight if that's made a difference.
Well, I'm figuring that the rusted arbor size is the 1 1/4" because the hole that runs through the middle of the arbor is already 5/8 as measured with my calipers, so therefore it has to be bigger than that, and that's the only other size option(?).
I also plan on taking my planer blades to a local sharpening shop this week, so I'll see if they can do this blade too. It's not a fine cut blade by any means, but it'll be good to have available.
You won't have to sharpen your Shopsmith planer blades many times to make this pay off.
You do, however, need the conical sanding disk to use this.
BE CAREFUL breaking that tight arbor nut loose. Handling this stubborn task is a good way to get cut on the blade. I remove the arbor nuts while the arbor is mounted on the Mark V. This eliminates the possibility of me dropping the blade and/or arbor on the floor when it slips out of control.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
I think i'm going to find some way to dig a block of wood into the teeth to give me some leverage while cranking with the pliers. Sounds about the safest route to me.
ugly_guitar_guy wrote:I think i'm going to find some way to dig a block of wood into the teeth to give me some leverage while cranking with the pliers. Sounds about the safest route to me.
Thanks for the help guys!
There should be flats available to attach WRENCHES on both the arbor body and the nut.
Did I say use WRENCHES?;)
If not, be sure to use WRENCHES preferably the non-adjustable kind.
Also pay attention to what Dusty suggested!!!
BTW 'Pliers' NOT recommended on ANY part of the SS!!!!:eek:
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ugly_guitar_guy wrote:I think i'm going to find some way to dig a block of wood into the teeth to give me some leverage while cranking with the pliers. Sounds about the safest route to me.
Thanks for the help guys!
Pliers would be an excellent way to either get hurt doing this job or to do damage.
An arbor wrench or an appropriately sized open end wrench.
No slip joints or adjustables.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:Pliers would be an excellent way to either get hurt doing this job or to do damage.
An arbor wrench or an appropriately sized open end wrench.
No slip joints or adjustables.
Sorry, brain said pliers, but I meant wrench. I do need to get a couple decent adjustable wrenches though...
Actually, it was much easier than I thought it would be after a couple days of various chemical-baths. I cut about a 4 inch piece of 2x3, and used my handsaw to make a slot about half way down the middle (lengthwise), and crammed that nice and tight on to the blade so that I had something to hold on to. I mounted it back on the SS, and using my (now purposely un-described) wrench I cranked it and it came loose pretty easily. Reverse threaded for sure, so it's an oldie. I'm going to take the saw blade in to the sharpener along with my planer blades and see if they'll sharpen it back up for me too since it's hard to find that size arbor blade locally.
Tonight, It'll be 220 grit and steel wool to get the rest of the rust off the arbor and lookin' shiny again.
ugly_guitar_guy wrote:Sorry, brain said pliers, but I meant wrench. I do need to get a couple decent adjustable wrenches though...
Actually, it was much easier than I thought it would be after a couple days of various chemical-baths. I cut about a 4 inch piece of 2x3, and used my handsaw to make a slot about half way down the middle (lengthwise), and crammed that nice and tight on to the blade so that I had something to hold on to. I mounted it back on the SS, and using my (now purposely un-described) wrench I cranked it and it came loose pretty easily. Reverse threaded for sure, so it's an oldie. I'm going to take the saw blade in to the sharpener along with my planer blades and see if they'll sharpen it back up for me too since it's hard to find that size arbor blade locally.
Tonight, It'll be 220 grit and steel wool to get the rest of the rust off the arbor and lookin' shiny again.
Forget the 220 grit and steel wool and use evaporust!;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
