SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Culprit wrote:Thank you. I had no idea that there are two different wedge variants.
Does anyone have a set of the older 3 hole wedges laying around?
I am asking for my own education only.
When you refer to the "older 3 hole wedges" are you referring to wedges that literally have only three holes or to wedges that have only 3 holes for hold down screws.
My wedges have 5 holes. Three are for mounting screws and the other two provide access to the depth adjustment screws.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
The wedges literally only have 3 holes. They are short enough that you can get to the blade depth adjustment screws without needing the two extra holes in the wedge.
The link that JPG posted to shopsmith.com seems to indicate that the new 5 hole wedges are not backwards-compatible with the older cutterhead.
The "older" cutterhead I have (which uses the 3 hole wedges) is from 1984, and looks almost identical to my Greenie from 1955 - which also uses the 3-hole wedges.
I don't know when they switched to the new 5-hole wedges.
Culprit wrote:The wedges literally only have 3 holes. They are short enough that you can get to the blade depth adjustment screws without needing the two extra holes in the wedge.
The link that JPG posted to shopsmith.com seems to indicate that the new 5 hole wedges are not backwards-compatible with the older cutterhead.
The "older" cutterhead I have (which uses the 3 hole wedges) is from 1984, and looks almost identical to my Greenie from 1955 - which also uses the 3-hole wedges.
I don't know when they switched to the new 5-hole wedges.
Thank you for that feedback. I did not know. I guess "parts is parts" is only sometimes true.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Culprit wrote:The wedges literally only have 3 holes. They are short enough that you can get to the blade depth adjustment screws without needing the two extra holes in the wedge.
The link that JPG posted to shopsmith.com seems to indicate that the new 5 hole wedges are not backwards-compatible with the older cutterhead.
The "older" cutterhead I have (which uses the 3 hole wedges) is from 1984, and looks almost identical to my Greenie from 1955 - which also uses the 3-hole wedges.
I don't know when they switched to the new 5-hole wedges.
Are the blade leveling screws on your 'newer' jointer head flat head or are they the larger set screw style found on the early jointers?
I have an extra entire blade guard assembly. Just PM me if you still need it.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I hope I'm not stepping on anyone toes, but I'm in much the similar situation so I didn't want to start a new thread.
I picked up a 1983 jointer and the guard has no spring return. What parts would I need to make it whole again. Is it worth upgrading to the newer blade guard or am I fine with the existing metal one?
Also, does anyone know what angle the blades should be honed and have a recommendation about the blades if they have some rust. Am I fine as long as the cutting edge is rust free?
Are there any must oil locations on the jointer if it hasn't been used for a few years?