Stock miter gauge it is!
Ed
Nest Box 10 build (for beginners)
Moderator: admin
I wanted to mention that I am using a 50 tooth comb blade for this project. As a beginner you may have no idea what I'm talking about here so take the time to look up some general information on blades once you are done reading here.
Almost all of the cuts for this project are are across the grain of the wood, so they are called crosscuts. There is only one cut that will be with the grain, that is for the bottom. That will be a rip cut. So for general cutting a blade that can do both crosscuts and rips is called a comb or combination blade.
The blade pictured below is one version of this type blade.
[ATTACH]16897[/ATTACH]
Once we have the blade mounted it doesn't hurt to check to make sure the table is square to the blade. With shopsmith the blade is fixed so it always the table that is adjusted to it. Remember the shopsmith should be unplugged for installing the blade and for this check and any adjustments that might be required. In this case the blade and table are looking like they are in good alignment.
[ATTACH]16898[/ATTACH]
Some people feel safer by checking with a gauge, the gauge is placed on the blade and then zeroed.
[ATTACH]16899[/ATTACH]
When the gauge is placed on the table it shows if the table is tilted or not, that meaning that the table is or is not square.
[ATTACH]16900[/ATTACH]
That will have to do.... Actually that is more luck to get a reading like then skill.
Ed
Almost all of the cuts for this project are are across the grain of the wood, so they are called crosscuts. There is only one cut that will be with the grain, that is for the bottom. That will be a rip cut. So for general cutting a blade that can do both crosscuts and rips is called a comb or combination blade.
The blade pictured below is one version of this type blade.
[ATTACH]16897[/ATTACH]
Once we have the blade mounted it doesn't hurt to check to make sure the table is square to the blade. With shopsmith the blade is fixed so it always the table that is adjusted to it. Remember the shopsmith should be unplugged for installing the blade and for this check and any adjustments that might be required. In this case the blade and table are looking like they are in good alignment.
[ATTACH]16898[/ATTACH]
Some people feel safer by checking with a gauge, the gauge is placed on the blade and then zeroed.
[ATTACH]16899[/ATTACH]
When the gauge is placed on the table it shows if the table is tilted or not, that meaning that the table is or is not square.
[ATTACH]16900[/ATTACH]
That will have to do.... Actually that is more luck to get a reading like then skill.
Ed
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As we progress we will be setting up to make our first cut. I have set the machine up with a floating table on the left of the main table. I will be using the left miter slot for the miter gauge and have added a fixed table to the left as well.
[ATTACH]16904[/ATTACH]
If you happen to like to use the right miter slot then you need to flip things around. I'm more comfortable the way I have it set up. This setup is going to be with the waste side of the cut to the right and it will be for trimming only one side at a time.
The miter gauge could be used with only the protractor guiding the wood but I think you will get a better and more accurate cut by adding an extension. This image shows without the extension.
[ATTACH]16906[/ATTACH]
With the extension you have a lot more contact and control. The extension is the one from shopsmith but you could make your own.
[ATTACH]16905[/ATTACH]
As I mentioned earlier the waste side will be to the right. So when cutting the line is to the left, the wood to the right will be cut away. Where that happens is determined by the tooth with the set to left. That tooth is the reference to line up on.
[ATTACH]16907[/ATTACH]
So you can see how this works I started a cut then stopped it. The kerf shows the left side of the cut being on the line and the waste to the right.
[ATTACH]16908[/ATTACH]
With this information I will now complete the first cut, results in the next post.
Ed
[ATTACH]16904[/ATTACH]
If you happen to like to use the right miter slot then you need to flip things around. I'm more comfortable the way I have it set up. This setup is going to be with the waste side of the cut to the right and it will be for trimming only one side at a time.
The miter gauge could be used with only the protractor guiding the wood but I think you will get a better and more accurate cut by adding an extension. This image shows without the extension.
[ATTACH]16906[/ATTACH]
With the extension you have a lot more contact and control. The extension is the one from shopsmith but you could make your own.
[ATTACH]16905[/ATTACH]
As I mentioned earlier the waste side will be to the right. So when cutting the line is to the left, the wood to the right will be cut away. Where that happens is determined by the tooth with the set to left. That tooth is the reference to line up on.
[ATTACH]16907[/ATTACH]
So you can see how this works I started a cut then stopped it. The kerf shows the left side of the cut being on the line and the waste to the right.
[ATTACH]16908[/ATTACH]
With this information I will now complete the first cut, results in the next post.
Ed
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Having completed one cut it is wise to check to see how square the cut turned out to be. Not pictured was me using the square to adjust the miter gauge before I did this cut. As can be seen it is looking good. If the wood and square showed any non-contact areas then readjustment and a re-cut would be needed.
[ATTACH]16909[/ATTACH]
At this point we have made a single cut that squares up one end of the workpiece. I now set this piece aside, the second cut will come later.
The place for the second cut is going to be based on where the first cut actually happen, not the line that was drawn. The lines were only a reference to "about" where the cut needed to be.
Are you confused now?
Think about it for a while and I'll be back later to continue this.
Ed
[ATTACH]16909[/ATTACH]
At this point we have made a single cut that squares up one end of the workpiece. I now set this piece aside, the second cut will come later.
The place for the second cut is going to be based on where the first cut actually happen, not the line that was drawn. The lines were only a reference to "about" where the cut needed to be.
Are you confused now?
Think about it for a while and I'll be back later to continue this.
Ed
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- DSCF3088sc.jpg (73.49 KiB) Viewed 2365 times
Since no one has ask any questions on that last segment I'll take that to mean you are understanding the concept and we can get to the next segment of the build.
With all the first cuts done I moved to the second or sizing cuts.
On the last post I showed you the start of a cut and I was about right on the pencil line. Beginners have no worries if you are not able to get that close with your cuts at this point. Again these lines were for reference only. If you were off by a 1/32", 1/16", 1/8", 1/4" or even more it doesn't matter for this first cut because we are now going to set up the shopsmith to use the first cut as the starting point for the second cut.
A nest box doesn't need to be all that close to work but as a project to build your skills we will be taking this a lot closer. So are we ready to do that second cut? I sure hope so as here it comes.
What we are going to do is set up the rip fence on the extension table. That will be a fixed point of reference for the next cuts. Remember we NEVER use the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time to make a cut. What we can do is add a block of wood to the rip fence. The distance between that block of wood and the blade is the distance we want to cut. Once cutting the miter gauge is controlling the cut and the end of the work piece is no longer in contact with the rip fence or the block of wood on the rip fence. Break the rule and you can expect a major kick back. You have been warned!
So lets go over this again. The cut end of the board will now be temporarily resting on a piece of wood that is against the rip fence. The distance from the block of wood to the left edge of the blade is the actual dimension of what we want the work piece to be. Once gripped and held by the miter gauge we no longer need the rip fence or block of wood to control the cut, it is being done by the miter gauge.
OK her we go. Three of the pieces need to be 24" long. As a skill builder we want these pieces to be for all intents and purposes to be the same length. The rip fence is set up, the block of wood is in place and the tape measure is measuring to the inside tooth (left side of blade).
[ATTACH]16917[/ATTACH]
The angle of the next shot is off just a little but the edge of the left tooth is right on the 24" mark.
[ATTACH]16918[/ATTACH]
The block is now locating the previously cut edge with the work piece. Once the blade guard is down and the miter gauge and stock are being held the block of wood is removed. Control is now being done with the miter gauge. Note: this stock is so wide that the block can not be mounted on the rip fence, so it needs to be removed before starting the cut.
[ATTACH]16919[/ATTACH]
One the block is removed the wood is away from the rip fence and the operation can start. Again never cut with the rip fence and miter gauge both attempting to control the work piece.
[ATTACH]16920[/ATTACH]
In this next picture you can see how far the second cut line would have been off. Had we used the line this piece would not have been the correct length.
[ATTACH]16921[/ATTACH]
If you decide to try this then do both the roof and back the same way. You will have no problem with the back but the roof will require you to be creative.
The bottom is the only part that I did not size. It will be ripped and cut for length after the box is assembled. More on that later.
Ed
With all the first cuts done I moved to the second or sizing cuts.
On the last post I showed you the start of a cut and I was about right on the pencil line. Beginners have no worries if you are not able to get that close with your cuts at this point. Again these lines were for reference only. If you were off by a 1/32", 1/16", 1/8", 1/4" or even more it doesn't matter for this first cut because we are now going to set up the shopsmith to use the first cut as the starting point for the second cut.
A nest box doesn't need to be all that close to work but as a project to build your skills we will be taking this a lot closer. So are we ready to do that second cut? I sure hope so as here it comes.
What we are going to do is set up the rip fence on the extension table. That will be a fixed point of reference for the next cuts. Remember we NEVER use the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time to make a cut. What we can do is add a block of wood to the rip fence. The distance between that block of wood and the blade is the distance we want to cut. Once cutting the miter gauge is controlling the cut and the end of the work piece is no longer in contact with the rip fence or the block of wood on the rip fence. Break the rule and you can expect a major kick back. You have been warned!
So lets go over this again. The cut end of the board will now be temporarily resting on a piece of wood that is against the rip fence. The distance from the block of wood to the left edge of the blade is the actual dimension of what we want the work piece to be. Once gripped and held by the miter gauge we no longer need the rip fence or block of wood to control the cut, it is being done by the miter gauge.
OK her we go. Three of the pieces need to be 24" long. As a skill builder we want these pieces to be for all intents and purposes to be the same length. The rip fence is set up, the block of wood is in place and the tape measure is measuring to the inside tooth (left side of blade).
[ATTACH]16917[/ATTACH]
The angle of the next shot is off just a little but the edge of the left tooth is right on the 24" mark.
[ATTACH]16918[/ATTACH]
The block is now locating the previously cut edge with the work piece. Once the blade guard is down and the miter gauge and stock are being held the block of wood is removed. Control is now being done with the miter gauge. Note: this stock is so wide that the block can not be mounted on the rip fence, so it needs to be removed before starting the cut.
[ATTACH]16919[/ATTACH]
One the block is removed the wood is away from the rip fence and the operation can start. Again never cut with the rip fence and miter gauge both attempting to control the work piece.
[ATTACH]16920[/ATTACH]
In this next picture you can see how far the second cut line would have been off. Had we used the line this piece would not have been the correct length.
[ATTACH]16921[/ATTACH]
If you decide to try this then do both the roof and back the same way. You will have no problem with the back but the roof will require you to be creative.
The bottom is the only part that I did not size. It will be ripped and cut for length after the box is assembled. More on that later.
Ed
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At this point all the wood has been cut and all but the bottom have been sized. Things left to do include making the entry hole, and as it turns out that will be the next thing I will cover when I get some shop time again.
Closing pictures for the day.
The cut parts are sitting on the shopsmith, doesn't look very impressive yet but once you see the finish project it will look much bigger.
[ATTACH]16924[/ATTACH]
The waste pieces are setting on the left extension table (to your right in the photo)
[ATTACH]16925[/ATTACH]
Let over wood for a project or two. I'm planning on at least one wren house out of this. I have this idea so I will most likely share the build with you too.
[ATTACH]16926[/ATTACH]
This is a stack of wood for another on going project. Decided to get started on cutting these pieces since I was set up to do it. This is still out of the original 9 boards, one still needs to be cut up for this project so I'm getting my moneys worth out of this $6.21 purchase.
[ATTACH]16927[/ATTACH]
Ed
Closing pictures for the day.
The cut parts are sitting on the shopsmith, doesn't look very impressive yet but once you see the finish project it will look much bigger.
[ATTACH]16924[/ATTACH]
The waste pieces are setting on the left extension table (to your right in the photo)
[ATTACH]16925[/ATTACH]
Let over wood for a project or two. I'm planning on at least one wren house out of this. I have this idea so I will most likely share the build with you too.
[ATTACH]16926[/ATTACH]
This is a stack of wood for another on going project. Decided to get started on cutting these pieces since I was set up to do it. This is still out of the original 9 boards, one still needs to be cut up for this project so I'm getting my moneys worth out of this $6.21 purchase.
[ATTACH]16927[/ATTACH]
Ed
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terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
Ed,
Great advice and warning about using the miter gauge and fence at the same time. I completely understand the reasons.
For the benefit of less experienced wood workers here can you please explain the dangers of that particular combination and why the fence should never be used in conjunction with the miter gauge? (Except as a reference that you so aptly demonstrated in the photo using the offset block).
You explain so well (better than I could), and this is your tutorial.
Thanks
Great advice and warning about using the miter gauge and fence at the same time. I completely understand the reasons.
For the benefit of less experienced wood workers here can you please explain the dangers of that particular combination and why the fence should never be used in conjunction with the miter gauge? (Except as a reference that you so aptly demonstrated in the photo using the offset block).
You explain so well (better than I could), and this is your tutorial.
Thanks
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
-
swampgator
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1256
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 9:32 pm
- Location: Pensacola, FL
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fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
So Ed, is the weather nice year round or are you limited to only certain days to do your work? Doesn't look like you have much working space in your workshop 
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
Entrance hole is next. In this build the hole will be on the front of the nest box and 3" in diameter. (Note this is a change to the "plans" for the type of nest box I am building, stay tune....)
To gain better usage of the lumber I have arranged for the hole to come out on an open knot hole and instead of a defect on this piece of wood it just works in to what we are building.
This is the setup and tools that I used. Lots and lots of options for cutting the hole, this was just one of them.
[ATTACH]16951[/ATTACH]
As you can see in this next photo the hole is going to replace the open knot hole.
[ATTACH]16952[/ATTACH]
Now we have a hole, it could be left like it is as the creatures that will be using it will not care, but since I will have to be looking at it for the next couple of year I want it a little nicer.
[ATTACH]16953[/ATTACH]
Next we will clean up the hole just a little.
Ed
To gain better usage of the lumber I have arranged for the hole to come out on an open knot hole and instead of a defect on this piece of wood it just works in to what we are building.
This is the setup and tools that I used. Lots and lots of options for cutting the hole, this was just one of them.
[ATTACH]16951[/ATTACH]
As you can see in this next photo the hole is going to replace the open knot hole.
[ATTACH]16952[/ATTACH]
Now we have a hole, it could be left like it is as the creatures that will be using it will not care, but since I will have to be looking at it for the next couple of year I want it a little nicer.
[ATTACH]16953[/ATTACH]
Next we will clean up the hole just a little.
Ed
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