Designing a better Power Coupler...?

[fgrule]

I ordered a set (1/2' coupler, 5/8" coupler, BUNA spyder) and it works well. The alignment needs to be done properly as there is not as much "play" as the SS coupler allows.
Cost for the L050 (no keyway) version was $4.41 (5/8") + 4.41(1/2") + 3.30 (spyder)= $10.12 + tax, at my local Graingers. I still prefer the SS coupler, though.

Fred

Paul:

For your 1/2" shafts:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOVEJO ... Pid=search

For your 5/8" shafts:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOVEJO ... Pid=search

Spiders to go in between the couplings (get several the gremlins like to run away with them ]http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOVEJO ... Pid=search[/url]

[brad_nalor]

Using the original hubs, take them to tractor or truck repair center and have them crimp a braided hose (Aeroquip) to length.

[2bits]

When I bought my Mark 5 500 the Bandsaw was attached via a small radiator hose and hose clamps:eek: The guy that had it for sale fired it up and cut a board. He said his uncle set it up that way and had run it like that for years.
After I got it home I found this forum and ordered the maint. c.d so I could go through everything and see what else had been "modified". Lots and lots of cleaning later and the upgrade kit for the bandsaw (and a proper shopsmith coupler) and all is well. I did keep the radiator hose until I got a second coupler as an emergency back up, but tossed it.
The radiator hose did not have any alignment issues:rolleyes:

[Ed in Tampa]

Using the original hubs, take them to tractor or truck repair center and have them crimp a braided hose (Aeroquip) to length.

Could you give us a little more detail? Do they clamp the hose to hubs or what? Pictures would be great!!!!

Thanks