Edge Gluing

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:58 am

I have a project this week that requires a significant amount of edge gluing using a veneered stock that cannot be run through the surface planer due to the thin veneer.

This is proving to be one of the more difficult tasks I have taken on in my shop.

If anyone has any FOOL PROOF tips on this task, I would very much appreciate hearing from you.

Next time I need wider stock (18"), I'll buy sheet goods and cut it down!!!:(

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:39 am

Can it be sanded? Either with a drum or (if you have one) conical disk sander? Or maybe put sandpaper on the jointer table and use it as normal except having the sandpaper dress the edge instead of the jointer knives?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:24 am

My bad. The edges are not the problem. Prior to gluing the edges will have been jointed. It is the surface areas that are going to present problems. If I do not get the surfaces lined up well sanding the joint will become a problem. It won't take much sanding (no planing possible) to violate the veneer.

The trick (and only salvation) will be to get the edges lined up very well before the glue sets.

Short pieces (24") have glued up OK. It is the longer pieces that are giving me fits.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 11:37 am

If you have some of those Shopsmith wooden double bar clamps, you might be able to get the two surfaces perfectly aligned, but even with these clamps a perfectly smooth joint might be beyond reach. You can add a couple of "C" clamps across the joint at the two ends for alignment there, adding a couple of wooden cauls to prevent damage to the wood. Packing tape on the cauls will prevent them from sticking to your stock.

Another possibility would be to use a router with a slot cutter bit and carefully run the router the full length of the two pieces being joined, using the router hand held and with the base against the top (or bottom) surface of both pieces. Then you can make some splines to fit the slot, cutting them to a few inches in length and using them like biscuits. This way, with a practice glue up, you could place the splines where they'll provide for the best alignment. Again, though, getting the surface aligned perfectly will be a challenge.

A large veneer press is what would give you the best chance for success.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:01 pm

pennview wrote:If you have some of those Shopsmith wooden double bar clamps, you might be able to get the two surfaces perfectly aligned, but even with these clamps a perfectly smooth joint might be beyond reach. You can add a couple of "C" clamps across the joint at the two ends for alignment there, adding a couple of wooden cauls to prevent damage to the wood. Packing tape on the cauls will prevent them from sticking to your stock.

Another possibility would be to use a router with a slot cutter bit and carefully run the router the full length of the two pieces being joined, using the router hand held and with the base against the top (or bottom) surface of both pieces. Then you can make some splines to fit the slot, cutting them to a few inches in length and using them like biscuits. This way, with a practice glue up, you could place the splines where they'll provide for the best alignment. Again, though, getting the surface aligned perfectly will be a challenge.

A large veneer press is what would give you the best chance for success.

I have used splines before but with mixed success. Splines, if cut perfectly, work great. If there are any errors to start with, the splines tend to make them permanent.

The same with biscuits which I am using this time. If biscuit slots are off just a little bit that little bit reveals itself on the surface.

I guess these are the issues that make skilled craftsmen skilled - which I am not.

I have three pieces glued up now. Of the three, I have one that I am pleased with. In baseball, one for three is a respectable average. In woodworking - not so respectable.

Of the other two, I think that one may be close enough to be sanded smooth. The third one - well maybe I can find a location in the finished project to bury it. If not, I'll have to recut and reglue. Fortunately, I can just rip right down the glue line and reuse the lumber (no materials lost).

I got eight more pieces to go. I hope my average improves some. Slow and deliberate may be the trick but for me that challenges my patience. Patience is definitely one of my short suits.

Projects like this one cause me to have a much greater respect for anyone who builds furniture.

derekdarling · Post by **derekdarling** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:48 pm

Just a thought from the world of luthier: if it doesn't violate design principles, you could make a small route along the join and infill with a contrasting veneer, or a veneer 'sandwich'. Look at the back of a high-quality hand-made guitar for reference. Also from the world of fine furniture.

Derek

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 12:56 pm

derekdarling wrote:Just a thought from the world of luthier: if it doesn't violate design principles, you could make a small route along the join and infill with a contrasting veneer, or a veneer 'sandwich'. Look at the back of a high-quality hand-made guitar for reference. Also from the world of fine furniture.

Derek

I am going to take that advice. That sounds like a good technique. I

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:08 pm

pennview wrote:If you have some of those Shopsmith wooden double bar clamps, you might be able to get the two surfaces perfectly aligned, but even with these clamps a perfectly smooth joint might be beyond reach. You can add a couple of "C" clamps across the joint at the two ends for alignment there, adding a couple of wooden cauls to prevent damage to the wood. Packing tape on the cauls will prevent them from sticking to your stock. .......

I agree with the clamp option from PennView.....but, not many folks have them or enough of them to handle the job.
I don't have the clamps like these, but have had good luck using bar clamps to pull the joint together and cauls across the top and bottom that have a slight bow where the center contacts the panel first. Used a glue with a long open time so I had time to fiddle with the alignment.

Today's veneered stuff is a tough environment

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 1:16 pm

bffulgham wrote:Used a glue with a long open time so I had time to fiddle with the alignment.

And what glue wood that be?

bffulgham · Post by **bffulgham** » Wed Apr 25, 2012 2:57 pm

beeg wrote:
And what glue wood that be?

Have had really good luck with Titebond Liquid Hide Wood Glue (Take a look at the "Application Guidelines" tab). Not a good option for high moisture areas, but for indoor furniture/cabinets/etc., it has done very well. It also seems easier to clean up after the glue sets.....easier than the other Titebond PVA glues anyway.

Shopsmith Forums

Edge Gluing

Edge Gluing

Clamps and cauls