Tim,
I did not mean to say that the smaller hood is as effective as the larger hood. What I do advocate is that in some environments, like my open air garage, I do not get the full benefit of having a dust collector.
In a basement shop, an indoor shop with limited fresh air circultion or in a shop with multiple dust generating devices the dust collector system is a must.
In my shop, on some days when the sun rays pass through just right, I can see the dust riding on the air currents. I have good cross ventilation and the currents carry the dust right out the garage door and the desert breezes carry it away. Except on those days when the desert breeze turns into a dust storm that is blowing in the other direction.
Dust collector 4" inlet assembly
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- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I know I'm the naysayer but I wonder if all this 1 micron stuff isn't a little bit of ad hype? While I agree we should be very conscious of what we are breathing I'm having a hard time worring about 1 micron dust when I saw, drill, turn on the lathe and other operations like this. I have worn a paper filter that will quickly show tell tale signs of dust if it worn in a dusty area and unless I'm sanding I never see any of these signs.
Therefore I'm more concerned about dust collection at the source for operations like sanding. I have been modifying my sanders to connect directly to the dust collector which is making a huge difference in the amount of dust I see suspended. I still wear a paper dust mask and if I can I also try to vent.
The other time I know there is a lot of dust is when I'm spraying paint and finishes, I try to vent my shop by using fans to blow the air borne dust out of my shop. But because many of the fumes from modern paint is toxic I also used a vapor respirator that has chemical filters (be careful here use the wrong filter and you will generate heat that can super heat the air you breath). Toasted lung is not neat. I found this out the hard way I had one filter canister so hot you couldn't touch it, thankfully I noticed the heat before any damage was done to my lungs.
However back to wood working I'm finding the biggest way to deal with dust is to generate less. I have been using hand scrappers, similar to the ones Nick demo'ed in the last tips video, more and more. I find with scraping I get a smoother finish quicker. My projects end up looking better and I believe I'm working in a safer environment.
Ed
Therefore I'm more concerned about dust collection at the source for operations like sanding. I have been modifying my sanders to connect directly to the dust collector which is making a huge difference in the amount of dust I see suspended. I still wear a paper dust mask and if I can I also try to vent.
The other time I know there is a lot of dust is when I'm spraying paint and finishes, I try to vent my shop by using fans to blow the air borne dust out of my shop. But because many of the fumes from modern paint is toxic I also used a vapor respirator that has chemical filters (be careful here use the wrong filter and you will generate heat that can super heat the air you breath). Toasted lung is not neat. I found this out the hard way I had one filter canister so hot you couldn't touch it, thankfully I noticed the heat before any damage was done to my lungs.
However back to wood working I'm finding the biggest way to deal with dust is to generate less. I have been using hand scrappers, similar to the ones Nick demo'ed in the last tips video, more and more. I find with scraping I get a smoother finish quicker. My projects end up looking better and I believe I'm working in a safer environment.
Ed
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- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Apr 15, 2009 1:43 pm
Would appreciate clarification - Dust Collector calculations
I recently bought a DC3300 and am about to modify my PVC pipe collection system, and I reviewed some things in the forum and watched Nick's video as input. Nick, if you're out there could you clarify a couple of things:
When you showed the pressure drop calculations you started with an 8' 2" flex hose, and you used the pressure drop at 4500 fpm - so 0.132 inches of water per foot. If the volume is 330 cfm, the velocity is actually over 15,000 fpm and so the pressure drop per ft would be far higher than the 0.132 in per ft (like 0.4 if you extend the numbers linearly, which would result in too low a figure). You have obviously had systems working for some time with longer runs, but if I adjust the figures for the higher velocities I come up with pressure drops that exceed the 4.6 - 7.0 in of power available.
As an aside, I had a 2" pvc system (only about 8' of run) hooked up to a shop vac and performed very well. I thought the DC3300 was going to be an upgrade but it underperformed on the old piping - probably due to the high pressure drops from the 2" pipe. I'm just concerned that I'm not gaining anything from the DC3300 even if I go to the 3" because the 2" hose runs use up all of the power capacity and leave nothing for the pipe manifold. Can you shed some light, please? Maybe your pressure drop figures for the 2" have already been adjusted to the higher velocities & just not reported that way? I haven't had a chance to dig out my fluid engineering book to check this ...
Any light you or anyone could shed would be much appreciated. I'm going to use 3" and see if it outperforms the shop vac, and if not put them both on the manifold, and if the DC3300 doesn't seem to be adding much value other than possible air scrubbing then sell it to someone else who might value it more.
Thanks,
Raymond
When you showed the pressure drop calculations you started with an 8' 2" flex hose, and you used the pressure drop at 4500 fpm - so 0.132 inches of water per foot. If the volume is 330 cfm, the velocity is actually over 15,000 fpm and so the pressure drop per ft would be far higher than the 0.132 in per ft (like 0.4 if you extend the numbers linearly, which would result in too low a figure). You have obviously had systems working for some time with longer runs, but if I adjust the figures for the higher velocities I come up with pressure drops that exceed the 4.6 - 7.0 in of power available.
As an aside, I had a 2" pvc system (only about 8' of run) hooked up to a shop vac and performed very well. I thought the DC3300 was going to be an upgrade but it underperformed on the old piping - probably due to the high pressure drops from the 2" pipe. I'm just concerned that I'm not gaining anything from the DC3300 even if I go to the 3" because the 2" hose runs use up all of the power capacity and leave nothing for the pipe manifold. Can you shed some light, please? Maybe your pressure drop figures for the 2" have already been adjusted to the higher velocities & just not reported that way? I haven't had a chance to dig out my fluid engineering book to check this ...
Any light you or anyone could shed would be much appreciated. I'm going to use 3" and see if it outperforms the shop vac, and if not put them both on the manifold, and if the DC3300 doesn't seem to be adding much value other than possible air scrubbing then sell it to someone else who might value it more.
Thanks,
Raymond
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- Bronze Member
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:57 pm
Re: Dust collector 4" inlet assembly
I have a shopsmith dust collectorwith the 4in inlet I may be willing to part with. I just ordered the triple hose setup and I'm waiting for it to arrive and try it out. so get back to me in about a week after I get it and try it
Re: Dust collector 4" inlet assembly
lol...you realize you just responded to a thread started in 2008 last response was from 2011 right, not real sure if they are even still here, probably have better luck starting a new thread for your DC thoughtsLimpylarue wrote:I have a shopsmith dust collectorwith the 4in inlet I may be willing to part with. I just ordered the triple hose setup and I'm waiting for it to arrive and try it out. so get back to me in about a week after I get it and try it