Hi all, new owner of a 1982 Mark V Model 500. Good price, looks good but needs some maintainence and repair. No time to really get into it yet but looking at the easy stuff first.
When I first got it home, I was able to pull on the spindle and expose over 1/8" of the shoulder on the spindle knob (the unit had been left set-up and used in the drill position for a long time). I loosened the setscrew in the spindle knob, pulled on the spindle and held the knob tight with my thumb while tightening the setscrew. Now the quill is much tighter but I still have 0.004" end play. My question is what is allowable end play? This is as tight as I can get it by hand. Should I set it up in an arbor press to try and get zero end play?
Quill endplay adjustment.
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griffmeister
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- JPG
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Accept good result!;)griffmeister wrote:Hi all, new owner of a 1982 Mark V Model 500. Good price, looks good but needs some maintainence and repair. No time to really get into it yet but looking at the easy stuff first.
When I first got it home, I was able to pull on the spindle and expose over 1/8" of the shoulder on the spindle knob (the unit had been left set-up and used in the drill position for a long time). I loosened the setscrew in the spindle knob, pulled on the spindle and held the knob tight with my thumb while tightening the setscrew. Now the quill is much tighter but I still have 0.004" end play. My question is what is allowable end play? This is as tight as I can get it by hand. Should I set it up in an arbor press to try and get zero end play?
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Hi and welcome to the forum.
I tried to answer this today but I did not see it come up. JPG gave good info in that .004 play that you have is not bad. If you consider that the end play that you have is more than you can accept then you may want to check the quill bearing(s) for play and or wear. Sometimes a bearing will sit too far back and it may be necessary to add a shim washer of the proper diameter behind the "C" clip that retains the bearing in the quill. Wood will move more than
.004 with temp and humidity variations. I would use it as is but watch for any increase in end playjust in case anything is actually wearing or moving.
Bill V
I tried to answer this today but I did not see it come up. JPG gave good info in that .004 play that you have is not bad. If you consider that the end play that you have is more than you can accept then you may want to check the quill bearing(s) for play and or wear. Sometimes a bearing will sit too far back and it may be necessary to add a shim washer of the proper diameter behind the "C" clip that retains the bearing in the quill. Wood will move more than
.004 with temp and humidity variations. I would use it as is but watch for any increase in end playjust in case anything is actually wearing or moving.
Bill V
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griffmeister
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Bill, thanks for a little more detail. I guess what I'm saying is that I was just holding everything tight with my thumb to get the 0.004". Yeah, with that amount of clearance you can hear a click when you try to pull the quill in and out. That's just the physical limitations of my fingers, nothing really to do with the quill. That's why I asked about using the arbor press. I may do that anyhow, I think I'd prefer less than 0.002". Thanks again for the info.
George
George
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griffmeister wrote:Bill, thanks for a little more detail. I guess what I'm saying is that I was just holding everything tight with my thumb to get the 0.004". Yeah, with that amount of clearance you can hear a click when you try to pull the quill in and out. That's just the physical limitations of my fingers, nothing really to do with the quill. That's why I asked about using the arbor press. I may do that anyhow, I think I'd prefer less than 0.002". Thanks again for the info.
George
Attach a 'cord' to the arbor shaft(use the drill chuck) and run the cord over the extension table attach a substantial weight to the end so as to maintain a constant outward pull to the shaft. Tighten the collar set screw while pushing in against the bearing.
If sufficient inward pressure is applied to the collar(and the collar back face is true), all possible play at that location should be eliminated.
That leaves the bearing width vs seat to retaining ring dimension as a 'play source'.
Perhaps an easier 'solution' is ear plugs and putting the tool measuring that 0.004" back in its storage box and save it for when it is really needed.
IMHO this is not a significant thing to be stressed over!:)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange