New Wheels

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

[ATTACH]17542[/ATTACH]

IIUC the difference between the two versions is the inclusion of 9/16" spacers and longer screws.

And from 1963 [ATTACH]17543[/ATTACH]
Attachments
casters.jpg
casters.jpg (38.13 KiB) Viewed 1590 times
oldcasters.jpg
oldcasters.jpg (40.93 KiB) Viewed 1591 times
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

I purchased a power stand from Ebay several years ago. It came with a castor set that just didn't fit. I purchased a new set from Shopsmith for it that came with angled plastic shims (or washers). They installed so wheels were perpendicular with the floor. As I re-read this I am confusing myself, was it the power stand or the planer stand that gave me fits? Sorry age seems to rob me of important details. It was one or the other. I hope this helps a bit. Jim
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Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

oldc6 wrote:Dusty: I may be missing something in your problem. The left kits were
designed for the markV, where the legs are canted.dont know about those other stands as i dont have one with wheels.

Put your wixey on the caster . set them to zero and drill holes...

Now, maybe i have missed something really big here. If so please explain:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

Except for my Crafters Station, everything I have was purchased from Shopsmith. The Crafters Station was too but by the first owner (I have all of his paper work). All of the metal legs are predrilled with that one vertical slot and the two holes that align for the caster sets.

I don't know if it is wear and tear, incorrectly drilled holes or sloppy assembly but I have at least one set of casters that are not perpendicular to the floor.

I'm going to get this power stand up off the floor where I can work on it. I gotta know why these wheels are as they are.
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bffulgham
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Ditto on my mid 1980s stand

Post by bffulgham »

oldc6 wrote:Dusty: I bought a beltsander and stand last year from cl..

So, will attach picture of legs. mine only have the slotted hole in the legs.
further up is another hole maybe 12 inches from floor.

you said your holes were predrilled. mine are not, someone has drilled them wrong?? or they came from factory that way???[ATTACH]17541[/ATTACH].
My stand is the same as this one...just the elongated holes at the bottom. Have thought of using the holes further up to mount a shelf.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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dusty
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New Wheels

Post by dusty »

I said I was going to get this power stand up where I could see and where I could get at it. I got up early this morning and heisted it up onto the work bench.

I loosened all the screws that hold the casters and using wedges forced the casters as far as they would go in the directions required to square the wheels with the floor.

It worked, sorta. The wheels are not perfectly square to the floor but are now much better. To get them perfect I would have to drill out one hole for each caster to get a bit more adjustability.

I may still do that but I need the right length bolts and some hex nuts with lock washers so that I can secure every thing when I get it positioned.

As JPG suggested, I also centered the wheels using washers. These new wheels are a bit narrower than those provided with the casters. These wheels are also crowned. I believe that is done so that they swivel better when you change directions.

I guess this has all worked out for the better. Only time will tell.

What I have learned, once again, is that if a job is worth doing - it is worth doing right the first time.

[ATTACH]17560[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17561[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]17562[/ATTACH]

I put a washer on each side of these wheels to better center them but did not get pictures.
Attachments
New Wheels 3 002 (Custom).JPG
New Wheels 3 002 (Custom).JPG (94.21 KiB) Viewed 1569 times
New Wheels 3 007 (Custom).JPG
New Wheels 3 007 (Custom).JPG (72.82 KiB) Viewed 1568 times
New Wheels 3 008 (Custom).JPG
New Wheels 3 008 (Custom).JPG (67.8 KiB) Viewed 1569 times
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I see three places to 'tweak'. The top of the legs, the center brace and the casters. ALL are likely to be 1/4" screws in 9/32" holes.(lotta slop)

The shelf may be a factor, but if too 'long' it would have produced the opposite skew.

The crowned wheels are more 'sensitive' to the angle, as the flat wheels would be self 'leveling'.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:I see three places to 'tweak'. The top of the legs, the center brace and the casters. ALL are likely to be 1/4" screws in 9/32" holes.(lotta slop)

The shelf may be a factor, but if too 'long' it would have produced the opposite skew.

The crowned wheels are more 'sensitive' to the angle, as the flat wheels would be self 'leveling'.
Those tweak points might help but if I need to do anymore I believe I will enlarge the screw holes for the bolts that secure the top caster assembly bolts. The caster assembly can then be pivoted on the bottom bolt.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I think a 'clue' might be the way the bottom of the legs rest on the floor. If either 'side' of the leg 'foot' is cocked, the leg angle is 'off'.

Of course with an undulating floor . . . . .
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:I think a 'clue' might be the way the bottom of the legs rest on the floor. If either 'side' of the leg 'foot' is cocked, the leg angle is 'off'.

Of course with an undulating floor . . . . .
I got away with lifting that unit up onto my work bench once today but I am not inclined to do so again. If I had thought to check how the legs meet the floor (work bench) I might have gotten other clues but I did not.

That question shall go unanswered for now.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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