Today in my shop (while making some shelves)

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 11:46 pm

I'm in the process of making some free standing shelves for my shop. I'm using plywood and while I'm not doing this as a project here on the forum I did want to share a few things with you.

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The two version vary by width of the unit and require 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood. The vertical pieces are left as width of plywood for the dado cutting operation.

So first I wanted to let you see the jig I use for cutting the dadoes. It is a cutting board that I mount a router on and then at the spacing that I need is attached a runner. The runner needs to fit the dado with some extra space so it will not bind. In this case I have a 3" spot which I use to do the first dado. Then move the strip to the 9" spot for the shelf spacing.

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Of course you absolutely have to have the first cut right!

When I finished those cuts I went on to do an edge cut to the two outside edges. Note that the two ends will be mirror cuts and have to be done this way per my plan.

It may interest some of you that the Porter Cable jig shown fits the Hitachi router, one of the selling points for me because I had the Porter Cable stuff first.

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More notes coming

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:10 am

One thing that I like to do when ever I change sub bases on the router is to re-center things when I put the std. base back on. This is a pretty easy thing to do and only takes a few extra seconds.

The tool is simply a disk that fits the hole in the router base and a shaft that fits in the router chuck, some like this one will do either 1/4" or 1/2".

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With the shaft in the chuck the height is adjusted so the circle can fit in the router base. Tighten the screws that hole the base and you are done.

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If you don't have this (or like) tool and ever use guide bushings you will be surprised how much better things will work when you start using the tool.

Still more coming.

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:32 am

If you ever have issues with the router cord getting caught like in this reenactment

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A simple solution is to lay a board as shown and the cord will ride on that, slick as a cats whisker.

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So speaking of pucks, we have changed direction now... Some years back I build a set of these with hockey pucks and shelf liner. The plywood was slipping around a lot on the plastic saw horses, yep pucks to the rescue.

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Now the last one for the day.

The shopsmith is set up to rip the uprights. Sometimes it is just so simple to grab a couple of stands and set them up behind the machine and have go at it. Just 7 3" strips and the uprights are ready for dry fit.

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BTW I should mention the router bit is an undersized plywood bit so the fit is about as good as it gets and way better then garage shelf quality.

Ed

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:34 am

Even if you do not consider this a documented project it is as usual very informative.

Centering the collet will eliminate a lot of frustration and it will work a lot better than just marking which side of the router was against the fence. I have buggered more than one project because I did not pay attention to that sort of detail.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:31 pm

Dusty might I suggest that you purchase or make a special sub base for your router that has a "D" shape. As it so happens most of the time the round sub base of a router is not concentric with the router or the template guide mounting system. Thus one must fix that issue by either creating a sub base that is or modifying the one that came with the router.

Some routers come with a flat edge or you can get them as an option. And of course there is always DIY. The flat surface is more stable edge then a round base and I prefer that.

Here are a couple of photos to clarify what I'm talking about. This router came with the extra sub base.

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Ed

dusty wrote:Even if you do not consider this a documented project it is as usual very informative.

Centering the collet will eliminate a lot of frustration and it will work a lot better than just marking which side of the router was against the fence. I have buggered more than one project because I did not pay attention to that sort of detail.

reible · Post by **reible** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 10:43 pm

This may or may not be new, I'm starting to forget what things I've posted and where I posted them.... Anyway I don't think I have ever posted this fence arrangement when set up for a project, I may have shown it during some discussions just laying on the table for a picture???

Here I'm using the 520 fence but need to have the bit back so I can isolate the bearing on the bit. With just the shopsmith fence you can not do that, however with with this simple fence attachment away you go.

BTW the bit is an 1/8" round over and this bit was used to round over most of the edges for the project, looks more finished and you get less split offs/splinter/slivers that way.

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Ed

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:08 pm

The shelf project has been sitting for a while, actually I have two that I'm making, only differing by width. Yesterday I did another dry fit and put it together today.

This is designed to hold these Plano Plastics tool boxes.

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See this thread for more details on the boxes
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9469

The shelf can hold 8 boxes with the option of having one additional box sitting on top. It is on casters so in the garage it will roll around, not so much on the drive way.

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Ed

mgdesigns · Post by **mgdesigns** » Sun Jun 24, 2012 3:33 pm

Man, you must be one heck of a fisherman! That's a lot of tackle.

fredsheldon · Post by **fredsheldon** » Sun Jun 24, 2012 6:18 pm

So Ed,

I assume you are going to load all your heavy stuff in the lower tubs and the feather pillows and stuff in the tops ones

And watch out for those cracks in the floor as you are rolling it around.

Nice work and great photos of your progress.

berry · Post by **berry** » Mon Jun 25, 2012 5:37 pm

I'm pretty interested in how you adapted a router table to the SS. It appears you took 'someone's' existing table plus insert and added SS Rail Front & Rear Assemblies. Is that correct? Or did you build the table from scratch and add the SS rails? In either case why not use a conventional split router fence? Anyway I wondered if you post more info, when you get an opportunity. Thanks.