Assembling the Idler Shaft Assembly

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dusty
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Assembling the Idler Shaft Assembly

Post by dusty »

The Idler Shaft Assembly consists of:

522741 Idler Shaft
515616 Eccentric Bushing
504179 Ring-Retaining 9/16"
504189 Clip-Sheave Retaining
501320 Key-Short

My question is in regards to the Ring-Retaining (504179). What is the proper method of installing and/or removing this ring? Is there a special tool that should be used?

I have done this several times but in doing so I have deformed the ring so that it does not seat down into the groove as it must for every thing to fit together.

[ATTACH]17583[/ATTACH]

The ring that I am referring to is located on the shaft immediately to the right of the Eccentric Bushing.

The Idler Shaft Sheave has been removed to show the Retaining Ring and the Clip.
Attachments
Assembled (Medium).JPG
Assembled (Medium).JPG (58 KiB) Viewed 2033 times
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:The Idler Shaft Assembly consists of:

522741 Idler Shaft
515616 Eccentric Bushing
504179 Ring-Retaining 9/16"
504189 Clip-Sheave Retaining
501320 Key-Short

My question is in regards to the Ring-Retaining (504179). What is the proper method of installing and/or removing this ring? Is there a special tool that should be used?

I have done this several times but in doing so I have deformed the ring so that it does not seat down into the groove as it must for every thing to fit together.

I do not recall the hairpin clip closed end positioned over the key.

[ATTACH]17583[/ATTACH]

The ring that I am referring to is located on the shaft immediately to the right of the Eccentric Bushing.

The Idler Shaft Sheave has been removed to show the Retaining Ring and the Clip.
This may be one of those parts best replaced once deformed by removal. I have carefully 'squeezed' the ring while being careful to maintain some sense of roundness. So far that has been successful.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by JPG »

P.S. I have a large pair of 'gas' pliers that has smooth curved areas in the bottom of the jaws. I typically use them to squeeze things to a round shape.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:P.S. I have a large pair of 'gas' pliers that has smooth curved areas in the bottom of the jaws. I typically use them to squeeze things to a round shape.

Yes, I know most of the 'Rube Goldberg' methods. I was an Air Force communications technician for an entire military career.

What I asked was: "What is the proper method of installing and/or removing this ring? Is there a special tool that should be used"?

I have already cobbled up two or three rings and did what was necessary to reuse them.

If there is a proper method, I would like to disclose that to the other members of the forum so they do not need to do what I have done.

Capisci?

What would be really neat would be to hear from "Shopsmith Engineering" on this. How do they apply that ring in the factory without distorting its shape?
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:Yes, I know most of the 'Rube Goldberg' methods. I was an Air Force communications technician.

What I asked was: "What is the proper method of installing and/or removing this ring? Is there a special tool that should be used"?

I have already cobbled up two or three rings and did what was necessary to reuse them.

If there is a proper method, I would like to disclose that to the other members of the forum so they do not need to do what I have done.

Capisci?

Si Signor! Capisce! I envision a tool with a groove to retain the ring while the pliers like device is squeezed(sorta like hog nose clip pliers). I doubt any local hardware store will have one and any commercial establishment would have astronomical pricing.

If MickyD were lurking, he could probably shed considerable light here.

I think fer us DIY hobby types cobbling is a practical approach. ;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

To determine how Shopsmith would recommend I do this small task, I decided to call Shopsmith.

Guess What! There is no special tool at least not in their tool box. Customer Service told me that they use a flat screw driver to put in on and a pair of pliers or channel locks to squeeze it back into shape. This works because the ring is made of soft metal!

I guess I have been making a big thing out of nothing.:eek: All the ring does when properly assembled is prevent the sheave from going too far onto the shaft.
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Post by SDSSmith »

dusty wrote:To determine how Shopsmith would recommend I do this small task, I decided to call Shopsmith.

Guess What! There is no special tool at least not in their tool box. Customer Service told me that they use a flat screw driver to put in on and a pair of pliers or channel locks to squeeze it back into shape. This works because the ring is made of soft metal!

I guess I have been making a big thing out of nothing.:eek: All the ring does when properly assembled is prevent the sheave from going too far onto the shaft.
You had help from the usual suspect(s)!:D
Rob in San Diego
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Post by billmayo »

SDSSmith wrote:You had help from the usual suspect(s)!:D
but no comments from them on the Idler Sheave been backwards on the idler shaft. WOW!
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

billmayo wrote:but no comments from them on the Idler Sheave been backwards on the idler shaft. WOW!
The idler sheave is missing, Bill. What you see in the photo is the Control Sheave.
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Post by JPG »

SDSSmith wrote:You had help from the usual suspect(s)!:D

Hey! I initially mentioned squeezing the ring with a large pair of gas pliers.

That was not exotic enough for Dusty so I postulated a possible tool resembling hog nose pliers.

It appears cobbling is indeed the OEM procedure!:D
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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