Misaligned arm locking pin

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:31 pm

tgamel wrote:... but the process seems pretty 'idiot' proof (maybe not ).

The only thing I noticed is that when I turn the set screw, the carriage move just a slight bit away from the screw leaving about 1 1/8" gap on the side with the set screw. I could place a wood wedge on the other side when placing the SS in drill press mode, but I know it was designed to not have to do this.....Still kinda stumped. However, I will say one thing, after cleaning lubricating and aligning the Mark V, I really learned where all the locks were and what they did. This thing is built like a tank, and I can really understand why they last so long. I know once I figure this little hiccup out, this baby is gonna last a long time and give me a lot of enjoyment.

If you use an allen Key to turn in the screw - yes you can move the rotating base away from the screw. This screw is supposed to be tightened by hand (finger) pressure only.

Not a good idea to put in a wood block to avoid the shift. Here's why---
Oh my! It is not idiot proof:eek: I see you have that deep gouge on the side of the indent. Someone did what I did, to lower the machine to horizontal position without first turning out the screw. Yes, it needs a tug, but who said I was not an idiot. The only fix I have thought of is to make sure the screw is tightened tightly by hand. This way the machine will stay upright unless forced down.

That gouge would have been deeper if the base had not shifted to the other side.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:38 pm

The head contributes nothing to the function at hand.

The distance from the end of the thread(at the head end) and the tapered end determines the 'range'.

4 different 'versions' - Mark 5 - Mark V - Mark V - Mid 80's 510
[ATTACH]17693[/ATTACH]
The figures are the approximate distance from the back of the nut at the thread limit and the tip of the tapered end. The one on the right is shorter than the others, and resembles tgamel's(short thread), but all work on all bases that they came out of.

[ATTACH]17694[/ATTACH]
Notice the third from the left(appears to have been fabricated from a screw).

Question is, what does tgamel's measure?.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:45 pm

tgamel wrote:Ok, shot some more pics, they are not great but good enough to share the information. The set screw seems to be the same length as everyone else's (about 2 3/16" long). The divot or depression is there, I see no cracks or any other defects that should cause the way tubes or their mount to move. I am stumped, but as I am new to the SS I could be doing something wrong, but the process seems pretty 'idiot' proof (maybe not ).

The only thing I noticed is that when I turn the set screw, the carriage move just a slight bit away from the screw leaving about 1 1/8" gap on the side with the set screw. I could place a wood wedge on the other side when placing the SS in drill press mode, but I know it was designed to not have to do this.....Still kinda stumped. However, I will say one thing, after cleaning lubricating and aligning the Mark V, I really learned where all the locks were and what they did. This thing is built like a tank, and I can really understand why they last so long. I know once I figure this little hiccup out, this baby is gonna last a long time and give me a lot of enjoyment.

Looking at the picture of the indent (may be an optical illusion), it looks elongated. Is this the case?

Alot of people want to 'fix' the offset indent problem. Which in fact is by design, but if fixed, the resulting elongated hole would allow the locking screw to screw in further than it was intended.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:19 am

By counting threads in tgamel's screw, it has 2-5 less threads(1/8-5/16") than the four screws shown above(and Ed's).

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:01 am

JPG40504 wrote:The head contributes nothing to the function at hand.

The distance from the end of the thread(at the head end) and the tapered end determines the 'range'.

4 different 'versions' - Mark 5 - Mark V - Mark V - Mid 80's 510
[ATTACH]17693[/ATTACH]
The figures are the approximate distance from the back of the nut at the thread limit and the tip of the tapered end. The one on the right is shorter than the others, and resembles tgamel's(short thread), but all work on all bases that they came out of.

[ATTACH]17694[/ATTACH]
Notice the third from the left(appears to have been fabricated from a screw).

Question is, what does tgamel's measure?.

Check post #19 for the answer.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:27 pm

dusty wrote:Check post #19 for the answer.

#19 States the total length of the screw. My question was length from the end of the threads to the tip. Sorry if I was not more specific with the question. My intended meaning was consistent with the rest of the post(#22)[the head don't 'count':D].

I believe it is shorter than all others pictured here.

Details . . . Details . . . Details.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:41 pm

Hi,

I surveyed my "vast collection"(5) of knobs and found that they ranged from 1.9" to 1.75". Note that this is the fastener correct measurement.

The 1.75" was from a 2012 purchase new from shopsmith. If I get time later today I want to try that with my reference machine that I purchased new in 1976 and has the original knob. Results will be posted one way or the other.

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:19 pm

Took a closer look at tgamel's screw and scaled it from the pix and I believe it is only about 1 3/8"(1.38) from the threads to the tip.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:43 pm

Results were that the shortest screw I have, 1.75" works in each of my three machines. In all cases the head of the fastener is about 1/4" away from touching the casting.

Reasoning would dictate that in my case I could use a fastener that is 1.50" or longer. Anything less then 1.5" would be questionable.

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

I surveyed my "vast collection"(5) of knobs and found that they ranged from 1.9" to 1.75". Note that this is the fastener correct measurement.

The 1.75" was from a 2012 purchase new from shopsmith. If I get time later today I want to try that with my reference machine that I purchased new in 1976 and has the original knob. Results will be posted one way or the other.

Ed

tgamel · Post by **tgamel** » Sun Jun 17, 2012 4:19 pm

Sorry guys haven't been on here in a few days, finishing up the last day of a four day rotation and 14 to 16 hour days get old real fast when your almost 50

. After looking at everyone's posts it appears there is some variation as to the length of the set screw as produced by SS for the Mark V. After I get home in the morning I will reexamine my Mark V base and the screw just to make sure everything seems kosher and that I have not missed anything. But at this time I am thinking that maybe, just maybe a set screw that is a tad longer would solve my problem.

Like Dusty said, I do not think the Mark V would fall on it's own, but in a smaller shop where I could easily turn around and bump into it I could see where it would have the potential to fall back down on the base. While doing so would probably be of no immediate danger to me, I just would not want the grandkids or anyone else that might be in the shop to be in harm's way. Injuring someone else in my shop because I did not take proper precautions would not make me happy.

Gonna have to break out the big camera and take some good pics and reexamine my options. I might just take the screw down to the local big box home improvement center, find me a screw of equal thread size that is a little longer and grind down the end until it is similar to the one I have and use it if that will fix my problem. Once again you guys are the best and I appreciate all the help, ideas, and experience ya'll have given me.

BTW: Happy Father's Day