PowerPro in 10 years

nil · Post by **nil** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 11:12 pm

JPG40504 wrote:NEMA 6-15R Receptacle.(Hubbell 5662(15A) or 5462(20A)

NEMA 6-15P Plug male for adapter and to mate the receptacle.(Hubbell 5666vy)

NEMA 5-15R Receptacle for adapter to mate to PP plug.(Hubbell 5969vy)

I just got word friday morning that my new mark 7 (my first shopsmith) shipped. I should have it by next friday and I've already got a L14-30 setup in the garage and matching plug to plug in to wired in place of an unused dryer outlet (decided on this because it makes it easy to attach accessories made for generators including spider boxes with gfci). I might recommend a L14-30 or an L14-50 if you're having an electrician wire a new circuit anyway since there are even more spider box options for that.

I have no idea what my first project will be, but I've been getting a lot of ideas watching steveinmarin and matthiaswandel on youtube. I'm sure my wife would like it to be a kitchen cabinet sliding shelf project that i have had in progress for almost a full year now in a wood shop I've had to drive to.. with a sawstop table that drove me crazy when it came to less than perfectly dry wood.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Jul 07, 2012 11:43 pm

nil wrote:with a sawstop table that drove me crazy when it came to less than perfectly dry wood.

Wood you expand upon that thought?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 12:12 am

nil wrote:I just got word friday morning that my new mark 7 (my first shopsmith) shipped. I should have it by next friday and I've already got a L14-30 setup in the garage and matching plug to plug in to wired in place of an unused dryer outlet (decided on this because it makes it easy to attach accessories made for generators including spider boxes with gfci). I might recommend a L14-30 or an L14-50 if you're having an electrician wire a new circuit anyway since there are even more spider box options for that.

I have no idea what my first project will be, but I've been getting a lot of ideas watching steveinmarin and matthiaswandel on youtube. I'm sure my wife would like it to be a kitchen cabinet sliding shelf project that i have had in progress for almost a full year now in a wood shop I've had to drive to.. with a sawstop table that drove me crazy when it came to less than perfectly dry wood.

I understand your desire to be 'flexible', but would not suggest others to use 30A or 50A plugs and receptacles(or a 30A/50A branch circuit).

Truth be told, a 20A branch and plugs/receptacles are too big. A 15A version should be adequate for the pp.

I do not know the max current draw of the pp, but am sure it is below 15A.

nil · Post by **nil** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:31 am

JPG40504 wrote:I understand your desire to be 'flexible', but would not suggest others to use 30A or 50A plugs and receptacles(or a 30A/50A branch circuit).

Truth be told, a 20A branch and plugs/receptacles are too big. A 15A version should be adequate for the pp.

I do not know the max current draw of the pp, but am sure it is below 15A.

Yes, you are correct.. 30A @ 240V is severe overkill for the powerpro alone. 30A @ 240V could support up to four 2HP pieces of equipment running at once...but I have other designs for the thing... using the same outlet for a power distribution box means when the tools are put away, the same outlet also works quite well for fast car charging, if/when I ever get an electric car.

I think ultimately I may even not be happy with the offerings out there and may ultimately wire the L14-30 to a plug-in wheeled load center with individual smaller circuit breakers specifically sized for whatever I plan to always have running when I am working on projects in the garage... this means going back to garage use should be quick & easy with one single disconnect and then roll everything out of the way of the car, so yes, I may want things no one else wants in terms of flexibility.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 1:53 pm

nil wrote:Yes, you are correct.. 30A @ 240V is severe overkill for the powerpro alone. 30A @ 240V could support up to four 2HP pieces of equipment running at once...but I have other designs for the thing... using the same outlet for a power distribution box means when the tools are put away, the same outlet also works quite well for fast car charging, if/when I ever get an electric car.

I think ultimately I may even not be happy with the offerings out there and may ultimately wire the L14-30 to a plug-in wheeled load center with individual smaller circuit breakers specifically sized for whatever I plan to always have running when I am working on projects in the garage... this means going back to garage use should be quick & easy with one single disconnect and then roll everything out of the way of the car, so yes, I may want things no one else wants in terms of flexibility.

Your head be securely screwed on and correctly oriented.

:);)

nil · Post by **nil** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 2:31 pm

beeg wrote:Wood you expand upon that thought?

Well, let's just say I know how much a replacement brake costs now.

The most recent time it happened to me, I was cutting, and I had finished and hit the power switch to turn off the saw.. then I reached for the wood to pull it away from the blade while it was pretty close to stopped but not fully stopped and once i brushed the blade slightly with the wood, the brake fired.

It stopped the blade instantly, but it was already nearly stopped and the blade barely left a mark in the brake. This was pretty disappointing because it meant that my work for the day (or week) was done until a replacement part arrived... and any other table saw would have just kicked the wood slighty forward -- and I was standing to the side anyway).

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:42 pm

THANKS for the info. SOUNDS like they "FIRE" to easily.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:45 am

nil wrote:Well, let's just say I know how much a replacement brake costs now.

The most recent time it happened to me, I was cutting, and I had finished and hit the power switch to turn off the saw.. then I reached for the wood to pull it away from the blade while it was pretty close to stopped but not fully stopped and once i brushed the blade slightly with the wood, the brake fired.

It stopped the blade instantly, but it was already nearly stopped and the blade barely left a mark in the brake. This was pretty disappointing because it meant that my work for the day (or week) was done until a replacement part arrived... and any other table saw would have just kicked the wood slighty forward -- and I was standing to the side anyway).

Am I to understand it did not fire as you were cutting it, but did after powering down and you inadvertently caused the same piece of wood to touch the still rotating blade?

nil · Post by **nil** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 2:07 am

JPG40504 wrote:Am I to understand it did not fire as you were cutting it, but did after powering down and you inadvertently caused the same piece of wood to touch the still rotating blade?

Well, it's also possible that I caused the same piece of wood to slow down the blade significantly by catching a tooth vs what the thing expected for the slow down of the blade...

I suppose it is also possible that while I was cutting I was pushing with sticks, and when I was removing the wood, my hand was solid on the metal table surface while grabbing the longer end of the cut piece, so maybe that was more conductive. I can only guess here. Either way, it fired in a situation that I don't consider dangerous at all. The blade didn't even have the energy to dig into the brake.