110/220 Plug for PowerPro

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Sun Jul 08, 2012 6:34 pm

JPG40504 wrote:
5) Yes what you are proposing is 'doable' and IIWM* . . . . Keep all wiring external. If you move, take it with you to avoid the concerns mentioned above with 'casual' occupants.

IIWM ? <<<never seen that one before

The adapter box would have 220V 50A male plug input
20A internal breaker/s and 220V 20A female plug output
Its only function would be limiting the current to 20A.
Nobody should be able to fit a 120V plug into it.
I would still use an adapter link described in the other posts here.
Then I have 30A less hazard stretched across shop Floor.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:07 am

lightnin wrote:IIWM ? <<<never seen that one before
. . .

If It Were Me. I do tend to make them up!

The curse of an original thinker!:D

nil · Post by **nil** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 2:44 am

lightnin wrote: The adapter box would have 220V 50A male plug input
20A internal breaker/s and 220V 20A female plug output
Its only function would be limiting the current to 20A.
Nobody should be able to fit a 120V plug into it.
I would still use an adapter link described in the other posts here.
Then I have 30A less hazard stretched across shop Floor. [/SIZE][/font]

I have been considering using a mag switch to limit amps into the power pro from my 30A outlet since most of them seem to have an adjustment for this. Anyone tried this kind of setup with a powerpro yet? Since there isn't a motor connected directly to power, does this even work as expected? I don't know much about mag switches except that they're on every tool where I sometimes go to work on projects.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:10 am

A magnetic switch uses a relay to prevent the equipment from restarting should there be a power failure without repressing the "on" button. I've not heard of one being used to limit amperage.

bobgroh · Post by **bobgroh** » Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:24 am

On the 4 wire 220V connection vs. 3 wire 220V - the 3 wire connection for clothes dryers and ranges was a compromise made back in the 1960s when copper was in short supply. A 3 wire connection was permitted (2 hot and a grounding connection) for a single load - i.e. a circuit which was not shared with more than one load. The 'grounding' conductor was used as a neutral so you could get 110 VAC if needed. Not ideal but accepted as a way to save copper. Now they have swung around and (it seems) most residences are now wired for a full 4 wire 220VAC circuit. Which is what I try to do if at all possible.