Back side/inside of PowerPro control panel?

[paulmcohen]

There is an ATMLH042 chip, which I have yet to find a datasheet on.

more to come...

I believe ATMLH042 is a serial eeprom]High-reliability
– Endurance: 1 Million Write Cycles
– Data Retention: 100 Years
[/B]
http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc0180.pdf

[JPG]

I believe ATMLH042 is a serial eeprom]High-reliability
– Endurance: 1 Million Write Cycles
– Data Retention: 100 Years
[/B]
http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc0180.pdf

That explains the ability to 'tweak'!:)

[damagi]

I believe ATMLH042 is a serial eeprom]High-reliability
– Endurance: 1 Million Write Cycles
– Data Retention: 100 Years
[/B]
http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc0180.pdf

yeah - i figured it was a serial eeprom, and likely an atmel. Given the scenario it would make sense.

The transistors are pretty standard MMBT3904LT1 NPN transistors (labeled as 1AM, in positions Q1-Q4 on the board) - one per button press which gets simulated.

There is also an unlabeled IC in position U4. My guess is that its a microcontroller. It has connections to each of the button transistors, the eeprom, the pairing button, and the wireless radio section.

[damagi]

Oh, and for those who are curious - probably the biggest reason why you need the microcontroller (outside of the obvious task of interfacing with the radio chip) is how the remote works.

Up/down are passthroughs

Poewr button is where it gets interesting:
Short push is equivilent to an off button press
Push and hold for 2 seconds

The microcontroller needs to make the determination of whether its a short or a long button press, then send the appropriate button press to the machine.

Oh, and I have a "remote" option cooking in my head that will be *much* cheaper...stay tuned.

[paulmcohen]

Oh, and I have a "remote" option cooking in my head that will be *much* cheaper...stay tuned.

Any update on this?

[damagi]

Any update on this?

I hope to experiment a little this month since I have some vacation to use. I am planning on messing with two options:

The option which has been largely discussed so far -
1) Creating an adapter board using an ATTiny or similar microcontroller such that when the Start button is pressed on the remote, it will send a confirm press shortly thereafter. Since the nova remote receiver runs off of the power supplied for the LCD, the microcontroller will be able to do the same. The code for the microcontroller will be pretty simple since you can use the arduino firmware to make prototyping and usage easier.

Secret option number 2:
[ATTACH]18363[/ATTACH]
2) A) Use a cable to extend either extend the whole control panel. As i recall its a 10-pin connector from the control panel to the motor controller, so 10 pins in a cable would be fine. I got this coiled cable as an experiment. Then you make it so the panel can be hooked/set wherever you need it.

-or-
B) simply create a remote panel with start, stop, up, down, and confirm buttons. Since the nova remote just emulates button presses, its pretty straight forward concept to trigger button presses with a similar hard-wired setup.

[paulmcohen]

I hope to experiment a little this month since I have some vacation to use. I am planning on messing with two options:

I am not sure if you mean you want to remove the panel and relocate it to a different place using your new cable or you want to add a second panel located remotely.

A second hardwired remote panel would be fine with me, removing the existing panel seems like it would create its own issues with keeping things inside of the panel and headstock dust free. Adding a second panel with a wire could be interesting with there was a quick disconnect so it was only used when needed and would not get in the way (assuming two parallel panels would actually work together).

A third option might be a remote soft "STOP" button (vs. shutting the power which involves a long boot time), this would address 90% of what I want.

[damagi]

I am not sure if you mean you want to remove the panel and relocate it to a different place using your new cable or you want to add a second panel located remotely.

A second hardwired remote panel would be fine with me, removing the existing panel seems like it would create its own issues with keeping things inside of the panel and headstock dust free. Adding a second panel with a wire could be interesting with there was a quick disconnect so it was only used when needed and would not get in the way (assuming two parallel panels would actually work together).

A third option might be a remote soft "STOP" button (vs. shutting the power which involves a long boot time), this would address 90% of what I want.

Both are viable options.

For just a stop button you would need two wires and a button.

For the remaining buttons (if desired), you would need one wire for the common and then one wire for each button. Put it in a little project box and you are good to go.

If you wanted to move the whole panel, my thougth was to do somehting like a z-clip or magnet. basically cover the existing speed control hole and have a mating attachment to the back of the current panel. Then add the wire and go. Will try to mock up something like this.

[paulmcohen]

Both are viable options.

For just a stop button you would need two wires and a button.

For the remaining buttons (if desired), you would need one wire for the common and then one wire for each button. Put it in a little project box and you are good to go.

If you wanted to move the whole panel, my thougth was to do somehting like a z-clip or magnet. basically cover the existing speed control hole and have a mating attachment to the back of the current panel. Then add the wire and go. Will try to mock up something like this.

If there was a very clean solution I think there might me demand for a remote emergency STOP button but extra wires running around scare me, that is why I love the wireless remote.

[damagi]

Code: Select all

 1 -- COMMON
 2 -- OFF
 3 -- On
------------------
 4 -- FWD/REV
 5 -- Program P
 6 -- Selector E
 7 -- Mode M
 8 -- Down RPM
 9 -- UP RPM
10 -- COMMON

Sorry for the lack of updates, though I know for many this is greek (or worse - geek:rolleyes:).

I adjusted the diagram above based on doing some analysis with my logic analyzer.

[ATTACH]18901[/ATTACH]

Basically, the circuit will immediately pass RPM up/down, but there is a slight delay for start/stop because of the need to determine if its a press or a press and hold. Either way, the remote setup pulls pins high when simulating the button presses. Based on this, should be pretty simple to insert a circuit to watch for pin 3 to go high and then make the confirm line go high as well. Perhaps a safer alternative would be to do a simple state machine to require a second start command from the remote...I will think about it.