Bandsaw blades keep falling off -HELP ME PLEASE!

[BigSky]

All are intended to be mounted to the left. An exception being the 1" belt sander which depending upon the application may be mounted on either end.

The 1" belt sander can be run either 'direction'(ccw/cw). As can the jigsaw, but it is not typically mounted to the right.

The operating direction is not reversible for the jointer, bandsaw, planer.

The scroll saw I do not know about.

The 6" x 48" belt sander can be driven on either end of the ss, and can be connected from either side of the sander(dual shafts).

Now if the headstock rotating direction is reversible, . . . . . .

However the spt MUST be operated in the correct direction.

I am sorry but I don't think I can follow you through all of that double talk. You start off by saying all are to be mounted on the left and follow that with a list of conditional exceptions. Then you close with the obvious.

I think I'll get out the manual if I have a question and I hate manuals.

Maybe it is because I worked a night shift last night. I'm going to bed.

[JPG]

I am sorry but I don't think I can follow you through all of that double talk. You start off by saying all are to be mounted on the left and follow that with a list of conditional exceptions. Then you close with the obvious.

I think I'll get out the manual if I have a question and I hate manuals.

Maybe it is because I worked a night shift last night. I'm going to bed.

Good Afternoon!

There is no double talk!

There are optional conditions and possible exceptions.

There are also connections between sentences.

The 'obvious' statement becomes necessary when mentioning the circumstance of a reversible headstock. All things are possibly reversed with a reversible headstock(except the jointer which uses the idler shaft). i.e. It would be possible to mount the bandsaw on the quill end and run the headstock in reverse(cw viewed from quill shaft end).



Sorry the world is not narrowly defined all the time!

Hopefully a few hours rest WILL clear the cobwebs!;)

I find it easier to remember/understand things by categorizing all that is the 'same', then remember that which is an exception. Much less than remembering ALL on an individual basis(the list of things to remember is shorter).

[keakap]

I know you said you're running this at 700 RPM, but you should double check that. The bandsaw should run on "slow" speed to "D" speed. ....

Don't know why I didn't catch this befo. With the PowerPro and going with the "Confirm" function, my band saw w/ 1/4 blade at modest tension, cutting hardwood, will run- again per PP- at 950rpm.

FWIW.

[keakap]

Now if the headstock rotating direction is reversible, . . . . . ..

DANG!!

I plumb fergot my PowerPro headshock runs in reverse. Gotta watch them switches.
No wonder it took me so long to resaw that 4x4x8foot white oak!!

[JPG]

Don't know why I didn't catch this befo. With the PowerPro and going with the "Confirm" function, my band saw w/ 1/4 blade at modest tension, cutting hardwood, will run- again per PP- at 950rpm.

FWIW.

Who/What selected 950rpm? The PP or the 'operator'?

[dusty]

Forrest: Did this problem ever get resolved. I sure hope so.

[keakap]

Who/What selected 950rpm? The PP or the 'operator'?

The PP. Well, you could say the operator had to actually make the choice, but 'twas the PP that selected the 0950 number.
It has a "Confirm" function that asks what tool (table saw, bandsaw, drill press, etc.) and you hit "Confirm" when the right choice comes up. Then you "confirm" subsequent options per the tool, like "Hardwood?", "1/2" blade?", and so on.

So if the operator is feeling particularly stupid at that moment- say o-dark-thirty getting an early start, say- he can leave the common sense level basic choices to the machine because it, after all, doesn't need coffee.

[JPG]

The PP. Well, you could say the operator had to actually make the choice, but 'twas the PP that selected the 0950 number.
It has a "Confirm" function that asks what tool (table saw, bandsaw, drill press, etc.) and you hit "Confirm" when the right choice comes up. Then you "confirm" subsequent options per the tool, like "Hardwood?", "1/2" blade?", and so on.

So if the operator is feeling particularly stupid at that moment- say o-dark-thirty getting an early start, say- he can leave the common sense level basic choices to the machine because it, after all, doesn't need coffee.

Interesting! Slightly faster than previous charts.

[Cornell]

Ok... My tire (blue) came off (lower) and got chewed up a tad. I've been reading numerous posts and am going to try a recap of what I've learned.

Problem... running the bandsaw (too fast I found out later) it eventually made a bit of noise, not screeching, not clunking, and stopped. I quickly turned down the speed and turned it off. The blade stopped, I don't know what else stopped, didn't spend time looking around.

I notice some debris on the cover, the opening over the lower wheel.

I take the cover off. Lower tire is off and has a small tear. Blade is off, appears to be ok, no kinks, pointy bits are still pointy. Vacuum out the dust. The debris on the cover didn't vacuum up. Fingering it, it's plastic, melted bit from the cover.

I'm guessing both tires should be replaced at the same time.

What I've learned...
Generally urethane tires (orange from SS) seem to be preferred.

The upper wheel is tilted. That is, it is not on the same plane as the plane of the body of the BS. The upper part is "back", towards the body, away from the cover. By how much? And if not the correct amount, one simply twists the arm holding the wheel. Seriously? Just torque the arm by pulling on the wheel, holding it top and bottom?

A straight edge across the upper wheel extending over the lower wheel should be about 1/8 inch away from the lower wheel. Why, because the upper wheel is tilted, canted? Or because the plane of the lower wheel is closer to the body than the plane of the upper wheel? Or both?

There are three bearings the blade runs on. At idle, the upper left bearing (mine has a groove), near the tension adjuster, the blade should touch the bearing, in the groove. On the right side, the upper bearing should just NOT touch the blade. It will touch when the blade is under load, i.e. cutting. The lower blade barely touches the blade, at idle. (Mine are a bit off )

The back of the blade should run close to the rim of the wheel.

Tension should be relieved when not in use, to prevent creating a depression in the tires and to prevent the blade from gaining an oval, instead of round, shape.

The guides, at idle, should be close to, but not touch, the blade, and should be over the flat of the blade, not the teeth (lest they get chewed to bits, I assume).

When resawing, one uses a tension a bit higher than normal for the blade. And ... what is it "deeper", (it's not "thicker", nor "wider") is better for resawing. I.e. 1/2 inch is better than 1/4.

Speed should be between Slow and "D".

So... how wrong am I?

[charlese]

A straight edge across the upper wheel extending over the lower wheel should be about 1/8 inch away from the lower wheel. Why, because the upper wheel is tilted, canted? Or because the plane of the lower wheel is closer to the body than the plane of the upper wheel? Or both?

There are three bearings the blade runs on. At idle, the upper left bearing (mine has a groove), near the tension adjuster, the blade should touch the bearing, in the groove. On the right side, the upper bearing should just NOT touch the blade. It will touch when the blade is under load, i.e. cutting. The lower blade barely touches the blade, at idle. (Mine are a bit off )

The back of the blade should run close to the rim of the wheel.

Tension should be relieved when not in use, to prevent creating a depression in the tires and to prevent the blade from gaining an oval, instead of round, shape.

The guides, at idle, should be close to, but not touch, the blade, and should be over the flat of the blade, not the teeth (lest they get chewed to bits, I assume).

When resawing, one uses a tension a bit higher than normal for the blade. And ... what is it "deeper", (it's not "thicker", nor "wider") is better for resawing. I.e. 1/2 inch is better than 1/4.

Speed should be between Slow and "D".

So... how wrong am I?

Mostly right-on as I read your post - and as I use my saw.
Tension is relieved on an un-used blade to prevent the cant on the upper wheel from sagging. Constant downward pressure will bend the upper wheel's arm. Learned this the hard way.

The 1/8" deflection from a straight edge can also be up to 1/4". I believe 1/8" is a minimum. The purpose of the cant is so the back of the blade will run up against the guide bearing (upper left double bearing) and stay true to the other two bearings, as you have described.
Also run true on the lower wheel.

BTW, I like rubber tires.