What's the best all-around beginner's saw blade?

[chrispitude]

Hi Paul,

This is something I never quite got. Isn't the flange on the SS 5/8"' arbor the same size as the flange on the 1 1/4" arbor? If so, wouldn't they provide similar amounts of stabilization? I don't mean this as sarcasm, I really just don't know.

Edit: would I be able to run these Freud saw blade stabilizers with the Shopsmith saw blade arbor? One of the reviews says the pair adds 15/32" to the total blade width. Am I overanalyzing this? Should I just get the blade and be happy?

- Chris

[qtndas01]

I generally use three different blades = Shopsmith carbide 24 tooth ripping, Shopsmith carbide combination blade, and a Freud 80 tooth thin kerf when I want exceptionally smooth cross cuts. I have found the main thing is to keep them SHARP. There are probably better blades but for the proce i have been very happy. The thin kerf blades do work better on the SS if you are sawing exceptionally hard or thick wood.

[chrispitude]

Moderation has prevailed. I ordered only the 40-tooth thin-kerf LU86, and no stabilizers. I think that will be fine for my novice woodworking skills, and an improvement over my standard kerf Vermont American.

- Chris

[paulmcohen]

Hi Paul,

This is something I never quite got. Isn't the flange on the SS 5/8"' arbor the same size as the flange on the 1 1/4" arbor? If so, wouldn't they provide similar amounts of stabilization? I don't mean this as sarcasm, I really just don't know.

- Chris

I was not comparing Shopsmith 5/8" arbor to Shopsmith 1 1/4" arbor, I was comparing a normal one to the Shopsmith. I don't actually own any normal blades for my Shopsmith with a 5/8" arbors. You asked why does the Shopsmith blade not need a stabilizer.

[chrispitude]

Ahh okay! A 5/8" arbor on a normal table saw must have a smaller flange (perhaps is smaller all around?) so that the stabilizers are recommended. Thanks Paul!

- Chris

[beeg]

I've heard/read, that your better off putting an expensive blade on a cheap saw. Rather than using a cheap blade on an expensive saw. So with saying that, find the blade you want, hang the price. Looks like you have a couple good choices posted here.

[james.miller]

The stabilizers won't work with the 5/8" saw blade arbors, there isn't enough thread length to safely tighten the nut if you include stabilizers.

[a1gutterman]

Hi all,

When I first bought my 500 used many years ago, I picked up a 10" Vermont American carbide-tipped general purpose blade at a big box store. It's been working fine to cross-cut the occasional 2x4. But now with the 520 upgrade coming, I am wondering if I should step up to something better.

What's the best all-around blade that would best serve a novice woodworker? I hear lots of good things about the Forrest WWII thin-kerf blades. They seem to come in multiple kerf thicknesses and tooth styles - which exact blade would I want? Are there other manufacturers that provide similar capability at a better price point? I've seen the name Tenryu mentioned, and the prices seem reasonable.

Share your thoughts! If you were marooned on a deserted island with your Shopsmith and lots of lumber, which blade would you choose?

(Okay, so you were marooned with a generator and loads of fuel for it too...)

- Chris

Hi Chris,
There are a lot of good "all-around" saw blades. The reason there are so many different opinions regarding them is simply because they all do a good job, depending on what you are cutting. All the expensive blades are going to do well for the purposes that they are made for. You can expect a smoother cut with the higher priced blades, but not by much. If I were you, I would choose a moderately priced blade, even the SS blades, and either utilize your conical disk sander, if you have one, or any of the many sanding options to really smooth the cuts when necessary. It does not take long to sand a sawn edge to perfection, and many of the cuts will not require sanding anyway.

[ryanbp01]

I use the Shopsmith blades. According to Rick Davis in his first dvd, the Shopsmith blades are made by Freud. So I think that would be the second choice I would use.

BPR

[dusty]

I have been using Shopsmith sawblades for about twenty years. During that time, I believe they were manufactured by Freud. However, I believe that is no longer true. Presently, Shopsmith sawblades are manufactured by Amana.

This is a fairly recent change - I don't know whether it is for the good or not and I may never know. I have five recently sharpened and one almost brand new Shopsmith blade. These may last the rest of my woodworking future.