Tuning Your Bandsaw

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:07 am

I don't know how much of this video is applicable to the Shopsmith Bandsaw but I found it to be very interesting.

Don't run out to the shop to readjust everything in your bandsaw without giving it a lot of thought.

:mad:

I find my bandsaw to be the most difficult power tool I own to keep sounding and running right.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:40 am

The video was quite interesting, Dusty. Thanks for posting it.
I checked my blade alignment and it seems to be right on with the gullets riding in the center. I notice that there is a slight groove on my drive wheel, though. That's a bit worrisome.
His contention that correct set up can eliminate drift is intriguing. Also, his comments about the heat build up in the blade makes some sense.
I've read most of the threads on this forum about the Carter guides and the alternatives. I'm still on the fence about whether or not to try either one. I'll probably try the blade stabilizer for sure, though.
BTW, I had a devil of a time adjusting the table to be square to the blade from front to back. (The blade was contacting the wood closest to the table, first.) I got it close with washers and coke can shims, but it still ain't perfect. Seems like an easy thing to correct at the factory. Maybe I just got a bad one?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 9:59 am

Gene Howe wrote:The video was quite interesting, Dusty. Thanks for posting it.
I checked my blade alignment and it seems to be right on with the gullets riding in the center. I notice that there is a slight groove on my drive wheel, though. That's a bit worrisome.
His contention that correct set up can eliminate drift is intriguing. Also, his comments about the heat build up in the blade makes some sense.
I've read most of the threads on this forum about the Carter guides and the alternatives. I'm still on the fence about whether or not to try either one. I'll probably try the blade stabilizer for sure, though.
BTW, I had a devil of a time adjusting the table to be square to the blade from front to back. (The blade was contacting the wood closest to the table, first.) I got it close with washers and coke can shims, but it still ain't perfect. Seems like an easy thing to correct at the factory. Maybe I just got a bad one?

My bandsaw tables both have a little bit of a twist in them (they are not flat). That makes squaring and leveling the table a bit tricky.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 12:45 pm

dusty wrote:My bandsaw tables both have a little bit of a twist in them (they are not flat). That makes squaring and leveling the table a bit tricky.

You have the iron tables or the aluminum ones?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 1:29 pm

Gene Howe wrote:You have the iron tables or the aluminum ones?

I have two aluminum tables. I don't know if they have always been this way or not. It has not been until the last few years that I concerned myself enough to even notice.

swampgator · Post by **swampgator** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:11 pm

I have two of the older bandsaws with the iron tables. I haven't had any occasion to cut anything precision, but they work very well for me. Of all the tools from Shopsmith, the bandsaw is my favorite. Like Gene, still considring the Carter guides. It seems it would be quieter and cooler than the blocks, but I can't quiet get there.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:53 pm

swampgator wrote:I have two of the older bandsaws with the iron tables. I haven't had any occasion to cut anything precision, but they work very well for me. Of all the tools from Shopsmith, the bandsaw is my favorite. Like Gene, still considering the Carter guides. It seems it would be quieter and cooler than the blocks, but I can't quiet get there.

Me too! Bandsaw is my most used tool. Have you tried "Cool Blocks" instead of harder ones? They should be set so they actually touch the band, just behind the teeth. Exception is the 1/8" blade. Here the teeth will actually touch the front of the blocks. One advantage of the cool blocks is they lubricate the blade.

I have the aluminum table and once that carriage bolt and knurled nut at the front of the table is tight, the two halves are level.

I can't think of even trying to do precision work on the bandsaw. Even when sawing dovetails on the bandsaw, the cut should be on the outside of the lines. More exact cuts are then made with a chisel on dovetails, or sanding on other parts.

rlkeeney · Post by **rlkeeney** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:04 am

This was a very good video. I saved it for future reference.

I though the comment he made about answering questions was interesting.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:20 pm

Dusty Dusty Dusty.... Now you have me thinking that I need to spend some more money!

I have both carter sets for my other bandsaw and I'm happy with the shopsmith bandsaw with the modified bearing set but. But the Stabilizer guide would sure be nice for a lot of projects on the shopsmith.

I guess I will need to add that to my list now after I watched the video and thought about it again. So thanks Dusty, thanks a lot!

Actually I enjoyed seeing the demo, makes me want to go out and bandsaw something!

So thanks for the posting, really thanks, no I mean it thanks, it was great.

Ed

camero68 · Post by **camero68** » Wed Jul 25, 2012 4:04 pm

I tend to agree that a band saw is one of the most difficult power tools. It is also one of the most versatile, which I like because I can do tons of things with it. Good thing, there are various help from everywhere which enriches our basic knowledge to it. Just like the video that you posted here.