5/8 arbor old style vs new

[benush26]

Were any old style 5/8" arbors made to belong enough to be used on the 510? I have two nice blades (a 60 tooth carbide and an 80 tooth freud dual side laminate cutter) that are 5/8 and would like to have an arbor that fits them AND the 510.
Being old, too excitable and foolish I bought a 5/8" arbor on that "E" site (don't know if it's bad protocol to use the actual name) without checking the SS id number and when I received it realized it was for a 500 (actually I 'did' check the number after I hit the purchase button - remembered the number but forgot that it was one to avoid).
I occasionally see older 5/8 arbors that say they fit the 510 but they are the older style arbor with the flange that screws on top rather than the nut/flange one the same side as the headstock.
I've read through the previous posts regarding the relative length difference, but because of the style difference, the overall length seems much less than the 7/16. One thing that I didn't see discussed was that the overall diameter of the older arbors appears larger than the newer. Cost savings by reducing material or a better design???? But I digress.
Anyway, I'm back to wondering IF I need to look for a newer arbor or trust these inaccurate and aging eyes and keep bidding on old style used ones (though I'll probably just break down and buy a new one and end all this muddled mystery)?

As before, any actual help as well as the SWAG method is greatly appreciated.

Ben

[JPG]

Were any old style 5/8" arbors made to belong enough to be used on the 510? I have two nice blades (a 60 tooth carbide and an 80 tooth freud dual side laminate cutter) that are 5/8 and would like to have an arbor that fits them AND the 510.
Being old, too excitable and foolish I bought a 5/8" arbor on that "E" site (don't know if it's bad protocol to use the actual name) without checking the SS id number and when I received it realized it was for a 500 (actually I 'did' check the number after I hit the purchase button - remembered the number but forgot that it was one to avoid).
I occasionally see older 5/8 arbors that say they fit the 510 but they are the older style arbor with the flange that screws on top rather than the nut/flange one the same side as the headstock.
I've read through the previous posts regarding the relative length difference, but because of the style difference, the overall length seems much less than the 7/16. One thing that I didn't see discussed was that the overall diameter of the older arbors appears larger than the newer. Cost savings by reducing material or a better design???? But I digress.
Anyway, I'm back to wondering IF I need to look for a newer arbor or trust these inaccurate and aging eyes and keep bidding on old style used ones (though I'll probably just break down and buy a new one and end all this muddled mystery)?

As before, any actual help as well as the SWAG method is greatly appreciated.

Ben

IF you want the blade to 'automatically' align with the blade slot, get a 510 specific 5/8" blade arbor.

IF you do not mind manually aligning the blade to the slot, ANY 5/8" arbor will do as long as the nut on the end does not interfere with the trunion.

That said, IF you want compatibility with the saw guards, get the 510 specific arbor.

Beware of E-bay descriptions. A lot of mis-conceptions out there.

[wa2crk]

Benush
It seems to me that the 5/8" arbors for the 510/520 series sell for as much on E-Bay as they do from SS. Sometimes more. With the questionable descriptions posted on E-Bay I would buy directly from SS. You will get a new arbor with a warranty.
Bill V

[paulmcohen]

I have a 510 1 1/4" Shopsmith Arbor with a Shopsmith 8" plywood blade I want to trade for a 510 5/8" arbor (no money involved). PM me if you are interested? I don't think Shopsmith sells this blade any longer, it is NOT Carbide.

You get the blade (if you want it) and arbor, I just want the arbor.

[dusty]

Were any old style 5/8" arbors made to belong enough to be used on the 510? I have two nice blades (a 60 tooth carbide and an 80 tooth freud dual side laminate cutter) that are 5/8 and would like to have an arbor that fits them AND the 510.
Being old, too excitable and foolish I bought a 5/8" arbor on that "E" site (don't know if it's bad protocol to use the actual name) without checking the SS id number and when I received it realized it was for a 500 (actually I 'did' check the number after I hit the purchase button - remembered the number but forgot that it was one to avoid).
I occasionally see older 5/8 arbors that say they fit the 510 but they are the older style arbor with the flange that screws on top rather than the nut/flange one the same side as the headstock.
I've read through the previous posts regarding the relative length difference, but because of the style difference, the overall length seems much less than the 7/16. One thing that I didn't see discussed was that the overall diameter of the older arbors appears larger than the newer. Cost savings by reducing material or a better design???? But I digress.
Anyway, I'm back to wondering IF I need to look for a newer arbor or trust these inaccurate and aging eyes and keep bidding on old style used ones (though I'll probably just break down and buy a new one and end all this muddled mystery)?

As before, any actual help as well as the SWAG method is greatly appreciated.

Ben

I find it convenient to have my blades mounted on arbors. I have two for 5/8" arbors and all the rest are for 1 1/4" arbors. It seems to me that if change over times are at all important, blades mounted on arbors is imperative.

[benush26]

As I look at the older conventional arbor design I feel more comfortable with the newer design that has the arbor wrench surfaces designed so you are using a wrench on one side of the blade rather than needing to reach around (over) the cutting edge of the blade. Though I am no engineer it seems like the idea of having the flat surface rather than the teeth of a blade closer to my knuckles. I also wonder if the newer design helps insure that rotating forces keep the flange surfaces pushing towards each other.

Thanks for all the great input. I made such a decent deal on the ShopSmiths I should just be happy saving the money and splurge on newer pieces.

Now that Montana is no longer as hot as Nevada it's time to clean up and recondition all three units so I can sell two to what will be happy owners.

Thanks again!

Ben

[JPG]

As I look at the older conventional arbor design I feel more comfortable with the newer design that has the arbor wrench surfaces designed so you are using a wrench on one side of the blade rather than needing to reach around (over) the cutting edge of the blade. Though I am no engineer it seems like the idea of having the flat surface rather than the teeth of a blade closer to my knuckles. I also wonder if the newer design helps insure that rotating forces keep the flange surfaces pushing towards each other.

Thanks for all the great input. I made such a decent deal on the ShopSmiths I should just be happy saving the money and splurge on newer pieces.

Now that Montana is no longer as hot as Nevada it's time to clean up and recondition all three units so I can sell two to what will be happy owners.

Thanks again!

Ben

They do not work any other way! In addition some 5/8" arbors include a keyed washer that prevents nut loosening.

All 5/8" arbors have a right hand nut on the 'outside' of the blade and flats on the back side. Arbors with a nut on the back side are lreft hsand threaded.

I have never come in contact with a blade while loosening or tightening the arbors. I prefer the opposite side arrangement. I do not understand 'reaching over the blade'.

[paulmcohen]

I find it convenient to have my blades mounted on arbors. I have two for 5/8" arbors and all the rest are for 1 1/4" arbors. It seems to me that if change over times are at all important, blades mounted on arbors is imperative.

I agree that is why I need a new 5/8" arbor. I am trading in a Shopsmith steel plywood blade for a carbide one, and since Shopsmith no longer makes any plywood blades I need to trade the arbor.

[benush26]

[quote="JPG40504"]They do not work any other way! In addition some 5/8" arbors include a keyed washer that prevents nut loosening.

All 5/8" arbors have a right hand nut on the 'outside' of the blade and flats on the back side. Arbors with a nut on the back side are lreft hsand threaded.

I have never come in contact with a blade while loosening or tightening the arbors. I prefer the opposite side arrangement. I do not understand 'reaching over the blade'.]

I never thought about the fact that the shaft from the headstock is 5/8 and therefore the ONLY way to get a 5/8" holed saw blade to work would be to have the nut on the right side. Unless you could get quantum physics to create an invisible threaded rod that was the same size as the Wow is it late!!!
Anyway thanks very much for the enlightenment!!

You'd think that since I used logic before I was retired I'd use some (any??) after retirement, but I guess not

Thanks again,

Ben

[dusty]

I agree that is why I need a new 5/8" arbor. I am trading in a Shopsmith steel plywood blade for a carbide one, and since Shopsmith no longer makes any plywood blades I need to trade the arbor.

I don't understand the need to trade the arbor. There are a lot of other 5/8" blades available on the market. But that is OKAY. There are a lot of things that I don't understand.