Belt loose?
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mountain4don
- Gold Member
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:06 pm
- Location: Jefferson City, MO
Wow!
Thanks a lot Fred for the fabulous pictures, and everybody else that commented on my delimma!
Now I have a much better idea where to go when my belts get here. I have just been running it at mid speeds now while I wait for the belts to make it run correctly. But I need to run it at least a couple hours each day in working up wood for my old house restoration! Pictures to follow when its done.
My other shopsmith is all set up with the lathe duplicator to make new spindles for the stairway. But I can't get into the headstock on that one because the lower drive hub on the back of the headstock is stuck on there. I have been pouring WD-40 in the allen head pinch stud hole to try to free it. Anybody have any idea how to free that? I have tried holding the upper drive and turning the lower one but the belts slip. I have also tried tapping it with a block of wood. But I don't have any tool to grip it and try to tap it off like a slide hammer or something? 
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mountain4don
- Gold Member
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:06 pm
- Location: Jefferson City, MO
PB Blaster?
Is PB Blaster a spray lubricant or a device and where might I get it?fgrule wrote:PB Blaster has always worked for me.
Fred
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
My goto penetrant is kerosene or TC-11(what little I have left).fgrule wrote:It's a spray. Just let it soak in. Sold all over (I got mine at AutoZone).
I have not had as good results with pb blaster.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mountain4don
- Gold Member
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:06 pm
- Location: Jefferson City, MO
Kerosene?
I haven't seen kerosene for sale around Missouri for a long time. My 1939 Farmal M tractor is set up to run on kerosene (starting on gasoline) but there hasn't been any of that in the main tank since right after the war. How long does it usually take to get parts from Shopsmith after ordering?JPG40504 wrote:My goto penetrant is kerosene or TC-11(what little I have left).
I have not had as good results with pb blaster.
I think ya can get kerosene at some gas stations or at Ace by the gallon.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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mountain4don
- Gold Member
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:06 pm
- Location: Jefferson City, MO
Ace
Thanks a lot. I will make a run up to Ace Hardware and try a gallon to see what I can get done with this lower drive hub on my '84 Shopsmith. I can always use the rest of it in my '39 Farmal M to relive the "old days"!beeg wrote:I think ya can get kerosene at some gas stations or at Ace by the gallon.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
K1 heating 'fuel'.mountain4don wrote:Thanks a lot. I will make a run up to Ace Hardware and try a gallon to see what I can get done with this lower drive hub on my '84 Shopsmith. I can always use the rest of it in my '39 Farmal M to relive the "old days"!But thats funny, I can run E85 in that and it runs like a champ.
Or JP jet fuel!:D
BTW it will not take as much as a gallon!:rolleyes:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I recommend a product called Evap-o-rust. I have seen it do overnight what continuous soaking in PB Blaster couldn't do in over 6 months (freeing a stuck piston in a 1924 engine).mountain4don wrote: Anybody have any idea how to free that?
Evap-o-rust is available in 1 gallon jugs at Tractor Supply Co. and Harbor Freight. It is about $5 cheaper at Tractor Supply where I live.
To use Evap-o-rust, you must completely submerge the part in it overnight. To do that with the lower drive hub on the left side of the headstock you need to remove the headstock from the way tubes. I recommend putting the headstock back on the way tubes backwards. Next put the machine in drill press mode. Remove the set screw, if able. Place a cup of Evap-o-rust on the drill press table and raise the table until the stuck drive hub and shaft are submerged in the Evap-o-rust. Leave it overnight. Follow the directions on the jug to rinse parts with water then coat with oil or WD-40 afterwards to get all the Evap-o-rust off and avoid flash rusting.
1955 Greenie, modified to be reversible