Rebuilt Leaky Jigsaw - Really Cheap and Easy!

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davem1066
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Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:08 pm

Rebuilt Leaky Jigsaw - Really Cheap and Easy!

Post by davem1066 »

I picked up a 1980's Jigsaw that was filthy with sawdust, grime, and lots of oil stains all over it. Used a grease cutter to get it to look like new. I also purchased new oil seals for the top and side drive shaft--only cost me about $10 from a hydraulic parts company in the midwest (source and parts available on this forum). Lastly, I went to Autozone and bought a sheet of rubber/cork gasket material, traced the old gasket and cut it out with scissors. I was really careful to thoroughly clean the crank case cover and rim in addition the breather hole and channel that is designed to reduce pressure in the crank case.

Purchased lightweight sewing machine oil "Dritz" with the long oil spout (wifey picked it up at Joann Fabrics). Filled the reservoir with this stuff(clear like water so it won't stain and make a big mess if you have a leak).

Did a few adjustments, put in a medium SS jigsaw blade and connected it to my headstock. Fired it up and it works like new! I think the total cost for seals, gasket material, and oil was $20. I really love these Jigsaws--even compared to a like new SS Scroll saw that I have. Next project is to restore a 1950's 'Greenie' with the cast iron table.

ANYONE can do these rebuilds..cheap, easy, and if your saw was not heavily abused, you will have a leak-free and quiet/beautifully running 18" jigsaw to make a lot of fun/cool stuff!

Thanks to many folks on the forum as well as Bill Mayo for advice over the past several years.

-Dave
Northern Virginia
davem1066
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Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:08 pm

Did I mention, Leak-Free?

Post by davem1066 »

Just to reiterate, the cheap/easy DIY gasket did not have any adhesive, compression only on clean surface.

100% Leak-free with the new gasket and seals. I was VERY surprised after reading all of the unsuccessful posts for folks that have tried this.

-Dave
Northern Virginia
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JPG
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Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

davem1066 wrote:Just to reiterate, the cheap/easy DIY gasket did not have any adhesive, compression only on clean surface.

100% Leak-free with the new gasket and seals. I was VERY surprised after reading all of the unsuccessful posts for folks that have tried this.

-Dave
Give it a few months to start leaking!;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
davem1066
Gold Member
Posts: 60
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2008 9:08 pm

Post by davem1066 »

Hoping the combination cork/rubber gasket material will help that problem.
Northern Virginia
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billmayo
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 3:31 pm
Location: Plant City, FL

Post by billmayo »

There is a vent hole in the upper right side of the housing, beside the screw. Many times, dirt or paint will clog up this hole. Make sure this hole is open in any gasket you make. Any gasket will leak if this vent is not open. It takes 3 oz. of non-detergent oil for this jigsaw, no motor oil. Do not over full it.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
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