seeking Mark VII switch wiring diagram

[JPG]

After perusing the ssug posts, I can see why you are 'not in possession of a solution'.

If I may, let me guess again, but this time as to the way the original switch works.

When EITHER forward or reverse are 'pushed' the L1 connects to the other L1. The L2 connects to the other L2.

Can't tell which is forward or reverse, but I believe the other 5 terminals switch as follows: ("A" is one direction and "B" is the other).

A= T5 to 5(r); T9 to 2 = red to yellow; redtracer to blacktracer[A.O.Smith]

B= T5 to 2; T9 to 5(l) = red to blacktracer; redtracer to yellow[A.O.Smith]

A= black to purple; red to orange[GE]

B= black to orange; red to purple[GE]

If ANYONE can either verify or correct this PLEASE do.

I don't recall if you mentioned which motor you have.

The terminal designations(L1/L2/T5/T9/5/2/5) are taken from page 15 of mark 7 manual as posted on SSUG.

[wgb]

i disassembled the old switch, and it looks like you are right on the money JPG40504!!

The old pushbutton switch is ingenious in its simplicity. I took pics, but, the 3 buttons physically move three independant hardboard "keys" horizontally. the hardboard keys hav various notches , and the different arrangements either push the contacts away, or let them spring together.

Anyway, by pulling the switch apart:

STOP: no connections (duh)

FWD:
L2 ----- L2
L1 ----- L1
5(r) x T5
2 ------ T5
2 x T9
5(l) ---- T9

REV:
L2 ----- L2
L1 ----- L1
5(r) --- T5
2 x T5
2 ------ T9
5(l) x T9


so , now I just need to wire up my new 3-way toggle switch!

[beeg]

GREAT ya got it figured out. Did you say your going to also replace the power cord?

[wgb]

Yup Beeg, new powercord too.

unfortunately, the wiring arrangement doesnt work with my 3PDT switch, unless i permanently tie neutral together, which im not keen to do.

so i think i HAVE to use two 2PDT switches.

grr.

[JPG]

Yup Beeg, new powercord too.

unfortunately, the wiring arrangement doesnt work with my 3PDT switch, unless i permanently tie neutral together, which im not keen to do.

so i think i HAVE to use two 2PDT switches.

grr.

Not to worry about NOT switching Neutral. Keep in mind that when your circuit breaker(or fuse) interrupts an overload, only the "hot" is disconnected. The Neutral remains connected. Switching the neutral does not provide increased safety.

BTW I hope your 3pdt switch has a center off position! Also bee careful not to inadvertantly reverse direction when turning off.

[justinflorida]

Help!
I inherited an old old old Mark VII in decent shape that I am trying to use as a dedicated lathe.. the greatest thing about this older model is that the motor spins both ways which makes the final finishing and sanding a real breeze since I can go 'against the grain". I just got the motor back ($280 bucks later) from the electrical shop where I had it rewound and the bearings replaced with modern ones which don't need to be lubricated daily, HOWEVER, as I read on-line is often the case, the forward/off/reverse switch is shot. I took it apart and it is toast (literally) and I'd like to replace it with some other 3-way switch or a set of 2 toggles.. does anyone have good photos and/or part numbers for an arrangement that they have found to work out well?

I got the switch and the motor back disconnected from each other and the shop wants me to pay 90 bucks an hour to have them figure out the wiring diagram (to a switch I don't plan on using). So if anyone has color codes and such I will be indebted! I have an IQ which allows me to chew gum and walk, can wire in a light switch without getting shocked, and I did manage to get the motor OUT without breaking anything already broken, so figure I can handle this. If not I have inherited an extremely heavy artificial reef! Thanks tons!
Justin

[JPG]

Help!
I inherited an old old old Mark VII in decent shape that I am trying to use as a dedicated lathe.. the greatest thing about this older model is that the motor spins both ways which makes the final finishing and sanding a real breeze since I can go 'against the grain". I just got the motor back ($280 bucks later) from the electrical shop where I had it rewound and the bearings replaced with modern ones which don't need to be lubricated daily, HOWEVER, as I read on-line is often the case, the forward/off/reverse switch is shot. I took it apart and it is toast (literally) and I'd like to replace it with some other 3-way switch or a set of 2 toggles.. does anyone have good photos and/or part numbers for an arrangement that they have found to work out well?

I got the switch and the motor back disconnected from each other and the shop wants me to pay 90 bucks an hour to have them figure out the wiring diagram (to a switch I don't plan on using). So if anyone has color codes and such I will be indebted! I have an IQ which allows me to chew gum and walk, can wire in a light switch without getting shocked, and I did manage to get the motor OUT without breaking anything already broken, so figure I can handle this. If not I have inherited an extremely heavy artificial reef! Thanks tons!
Justin

Look closely herehttp://www.shopsmith.net/forum/showpost.htm?p=29656&postcount=12

Post 12 this thread.

Post 11 may also help.


P.S. Oiling the MOTOR daily? ? ? ?

[db5]

You may be interested in purchasing this - $24 plus shipping:

[billmayo]

I use 2 20 Amp rated switches in place of the push buttons. I use a DPST switch for the ON/OFF switch for the run windings and a DPDT switch for the FWD/REV switch to switch the power for the start windings.