Doing Counterbores

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

foxtrapper wrote:Seems any time I use a standard counterbore bit like the OP showed, I'll get lots of chatter and a triangular shaped hole or bowl. Someday I'll study that triangular bit.

I get my best results with a remarkably crude tool. These:
Image
Got them many years ago. Nothing more than a flat piece of steel with the end rounded up so it fits in my drll. They don't chatter and produce a superb hole.
In MDF with only a 1/4" sheet to countersink? I doubt it! I had these several decades ago and gave up on them. OK for course work.

JMHO!;)
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

foxtrapper wrote:Seems any time I use a standard counterbore bit like the OP showed, I'll get lots of chatter and a triangular shaped hole or bowl. Someday I'll study that triangular bit.

I get my best results with a remarkably crude tool. These:
Image
Got them many years ago. Nothing more than a flat piece of steel with the end rounded up so it fits in my drll. They don't chatter and produce a superb hole.
I have used these very successfully but only for applications where I was predrilling for a counter sunk screw. I suppose they could work for applications like drilling the counter sunk holes for the ZCI to mount to the saw table but I have not tried that. I will when I test the others that I just ordered.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:I have used these very successfully but only for applications where I was predrilling for a counter sunk screw. I suppose they could work for applications like drilling the counter sunk holes for the ZCI to mount to the saw table but I have not tried that. I will when I test the others that I just ordered.
They will need a small pilot hole, and with thin material, you may need to back it up with the pilot hole in BOTH the workpiece and the backup.
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by easterngray »

I regularly countersink oak and cedar at work. The best method is to install a countersink sized to the bit you are using and countersink as you are drilling. In my opinion W.L. Fuller makes the best countersinks. They have been around for a LONG time and their tools are great. Here's a link:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=fuller%20countersink&page=GRID&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=fuller_countersink_set

and here's a video::

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VMBMFF9sHQ
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

easterngray wrote:I regularly countersink oak, spruce, cedar and fiberglass at work. The best method is to install a countersink sized to the bit you are using and countersink as you are drilling. In my opinion W.L. Fuller makes the best countersinks. They have been around for a LONG time and their tools are great. Here's a link:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=fuller%20countersink&page=GRID&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=fuller_countersink_set

and here's a video::

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VMBMFF9sHQ

Thanks for the prod. I have one of these and I don't know where it came from. I never use it.

[ATTACH]18335[/ATTACH]

PS: I only have two and they are both the same size (#3). Don't know what I would use them on but I'll try to remember I have them just in case.
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Post by terrydowning »

Starter bit typically used in metal working used for making 60 degree holds for dead and live centers on a metal lathe. Also great for starting out drilling. I use these in my pen making to start the drilling process. They don't walk or slide at all, they just start the hole so a larger bit can come along after it.
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Post by JPG »

#3 = 1/4" od with 7/64" pilot.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=193&PMITEM=88236112&PMCTLG=00

Give it time to load(2x), and scroll down near the bottom of the page.
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Post by reible »

Hi,

Here are the ones I got from Grizzle a couple of years back when I discovered I no longer seem to have my original set. If I recall the 1 - 4 were a package deal and the 5 and 6 were separate. I've included a 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" drill bit so you can visualize the sizes better.

[ATTACH]18336[/ATTACH]

Well worth having in a wood shop and really needed if you do metal work.

I believe I have posted some pictures and shown uses for these a while back, however I don't recall the subject(s).

Ed
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Post by JPG »

reible wrote:Hi,

Here are the ones I got from Grizzle a couple of years back when I discovered I no longer seem to have my original set. If I recall the 1 - 4 were a package deal and the 5 and 6 were separate. I've included a 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" drill bit so you can visualize the sizes better.

[ATTACH]18336[/ATTACH]

Well worth having in a wood shop and really needed if you do metal work.

I believe I have posted some pictures and shown uses for these a while back, however I don't recall the subject(s).

Ed
More gooder than a chart!;):cool:
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by reible »

If you are interested this will get you started shopping at Grizzly for these bits:

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2012/Main/634

Ed
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