Jointer question
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just went through and adjusted everything on the ss (even cleaned out and oiled the inside of the headstock, not just the jointer). the quandrant on the jointer is now sitting lower than the table. I'm getting the hang of jointing things now, although i think i'm putting too much pressure on the piece of wood when i put it through as i'm getting a beveled edge after i run it through a few times. i started putting less pressure on the wood as it runs through and that helped a lot. i guess i just need some practice.
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dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21481
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Jointer question
The bevel that you are getting I suspect is because you are maintaining downward pressure on the stock that is on the infeed table throughout the entire cut.
As the piece you are jointing moves onto the outfeed table, you need to shift your downward pressure to the outfeed table.
Remember, the outfeed table is slightly higher the the infeed table (by the thickness of the cut that you are trying to take). The infeed edge of the table acts as a fulcrum and you get the taper.
Many times you will find that this is the easiest way to create a taper.
Caution Note:
Watch the fingers. This is a job that you might want to use push blocks or push sticks for. A slip while you are pushing down over the blade would be real bad. Once you get the feel for this you'll find it easy.
As the piece you are jointing moves onto the outfeed table, you need to shift your downward pressure to the outfeed table.
Remember, the outfeed table is slightly higher the the infeed table (by the thickness of the cut that you are trying to take). The infeed edge of the table acts as a fulcrum and you get the taper.
Many times you will find that this is the easiest way to create a taper.
Caution Note:
Watch the fingers. This is a job that you might want to use push blocks or push sticks for. A slip while you are pushing down over the blade would be real bad. Once you get the feel for this you'll find it easy.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Don't forget to keep the table well waxed, the wood will slip through much easier!pdcrow wrote:I'm getting the hang of jointing things now, although i think i'm putting too much pressure on the piece of wood when i put it through as i'm getting a beveled edge after i run it through a few times. i started putting less pressure on the wood as it runs through and that helped a lot. i guess i just need some practice.
Hi P.D. - At the risk of being insulting - this is certainly not intended- Thought I'd pass on a minimal primer on jointing.pdcrow wrote:just went through and adjusted everything on the ss (even cleaned out and oiled the inside of the headstock, not just the jointer). the quandrant on the jointer is now sitting lower than the table. I'm getting the hang of jointing things now, although i think i'm putting too much pressure on the piece of wood when i put it through as i'm getting a beveled edge after i run it through a few times. i started putting less pressure on the wood as it runs through and that helped a lot. i guess i just need some practice.
1) Set your jointer depth to very slight. Only 1/32".
2) Square your fence to the infeed table as close to the cutter head as possible. Check this squareness at the outfeed table - again as close to the cutterhead as possible.
3) Aways observe this rule - Keep your fingers at least 3" away from the cutterhead.
4) Think of the infeed table as the push table.
5) Think of the outfeed table as the pull table.
6) Before jointing become aware of where your feet will be to accomplish the pass. Make sure you are balanced and during the pass you will shift your weight from your right leg to your left.
7) For face jointing, hold the edge against the fence and infeed table with your flat push block using your left hand. Push the board across the cutter using the right hand. As soon as you are able use your left hand to pull the board the rest of the way past the cutter, while holding the board flush to the fence and table with a push block in your right hand.
8) For edge jointing, use your left hand to hold a straight face against the fence. (fingers near the top of the board) Push the board into the cutter using your right hand and as soon as possible (observing rule #3) pull the board the rest of the way, using your right hand to keep the face up against the fence.
9) If your blades are sharp, and set properly, you do not need to use excessive pressure. During each pass, you should feel the blades striking the wood, but the wood should not jump of feel bumpy. If this happens, sharpen blades and align them as specified.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
@ charlese
no insult taken at all... I'm really just learning how to do all this stuff, and any advise is well appreciated. I used to work on this machine 15 years ago, and much of what my father showed me has been forgotten over time. I've been doing research... reading books and watching videos online, trying to learn this stuff, and this is one more resource to learn something from. And a great resource at that. Thanks!
no insult taken at all... I'm really just learning how to do all this stuff, and any advise is well appreciated. I used to work on this machine 15 years ago, and much of what my father showed me has been forgotten over time. I've been doing research... reading books and watching videos online, trying to learn this stuff, and this is one more resource to learn something from. And a great resource at that. Thanks!