I just came upon this video. If you have not seen it yet take a look.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 7sRrC2Jpp4
No blood but boy was it close.
Ed
Just watch this video if you haven't seen it before
Moderator: admin
Yep, I saw this one I while back when he first posted it.
The thing this video illustrates that a lot of people don't understand is that a kickback can not only send the wood flying back at you but can instantly pull your hand involuntarily into the blade. He was expecting it and still the only thing that saved him from a serious injury was his push block which took the damage. Had he been using a bare hand rather than the push block he would have suffered a gruesome injury.
Lessons for ripping: 1. Align your saw carefully. 2. Make sure your stock has at least one straight edge to put against the fence. 3. Use the blade guard and splitter whenever possible. 4. Use feather boards to keep the board against the fence and down on the table. 5. Use long push blocks/sticks whenever possible.
I've thankfully never experienced a table saw kickback but considering I operated a terribly aligned Craftsman saw for several years before figuring out how to align it correctly, I was just lucky.
Incidentally, you can also have circular saw kickback. I experienced that in high school when I nearly gave myself an accidental circular saw vasectomy (or worse).
I was making a cut in a plywood sheet on two sawhorses and stupidly didn't have an assistant support the cut off. Half way through the cut, the board sagged, closing the kerf and pinching the blade. As the blade marks on the plywood later proved, the kickback sent the circular saw (still in my hand) back in an arc stopping about two inches from my crotch. 
The thing this video illustrates that a lot of people don't understand is that a kickback can not only send the wood flying back at you but can instantly pull your hand involuntarily into the blade. He was expecting it and still the only thing that saved him from a serious injury was his push block which took the damage. Had he been using a bare hand rather than the push block he would have suffered a gruesome injury.
Lessons for ripping: 1. Align your saw carefully. 2. Make sure your stock has at least one straight edge to put against the fence. 3. Use the blade guard and splitter whenever possible. 4. Use feather boards to keep the board against the fence and down on the table. 5. Use long push blocks/sticks whenever possible.
I've thankfully never experienced a table saw kickback but considering I operated a terribly aligned Craftsman saw for several years before figuring out how to align it correctly, I was just lucky.
Incidentally, you can also have circular saw kickback. I experienced that in high school when I nearly gave myself an accidental circular saw vasectomy (or worse).
Even when you're doing it right, "stuff" happens
I had a similar experience with a hand-held circ saw recently cross-cutting a piece of 1x7 ash (too wide for my miter saw and too long to manage on the 510). Something shifted as I was completing the cut and the saw came at me. Because I have a healthy respect for these saws, I use both hands to control/guide the saw. When it bounced back, my arms absorbed the shock and all ended well....a foul but no harm to me or the tool. Had I been holding with only one hand, it could have been a disaster.algale wrote:.....
Incidentally, you can also have circular saw kickback. I experienced that in high school when I nearly gave myself an accidental circular saw vasectomy (or worse).I was making a cut in a plywood sheet on two sawhorses and stupidly didn't have an assistant support the cut off. Half way through the cut, the board sagged, closing the kerf and pinching the blade. As the blade marks on the plywood later proved, the kickback sent the circular saw (still in my hand) back in an arc stopping about two inches from my crotch.
These are good reminders for all of us.......If it doesn't look right, or you have the gut feeling it ain't safe......it ain't safe. Find a better way.
Like the Sarge said on "Hill Street Blues": "Let's be careful out there!".
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
- Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
I had the same thing happen only the piece I was cutting was about 5 feet long and at least 8 inches wide solid oak. Interestingly it flew off the Shopsmith and stuck in the wall behind me. That wall was about 15 feet back and that is when I decided the Shopsmith had plenty of power.
Thankful my hands were well away from the blade and I was standing well to the side. And that may have been part of my problem I was pushing from the side even though I thought I was pushing straight I must of canted the board.
But the real problem was I was not using a RIVING knife not a blade guard. Had I been using either the kickback probably would have never happened.
Even though I was well to the side it was still very exciting to see a five foot board sailing pass within inches of my head like a helicopter rotor and with enough force to fly at least 15 feet and punch though a drywall wall.
The gouge cut in the oak was at least 1/2 inch deep about 20 inches long in a circular patten just like in the video. You could see the depth change as the wood got to end of the swing, there were only blade teeth marks and I think the last two or so were about 2 inches apart so that tells me the board at that time those teeth hit the wood was moving really really fast.
Lesson learned for me was never never never cut on any saw without a riving knife or blade guard.
Thankful my hands were well away from the blade and I was standing well to the side. And that may have been part of my problem I was pushing from the side even though I thought I was pushing straight I must of canted the board.
But the real problem was I was not using a RIVING knife not a blade guard. Had I been using either the kickback probably would have never happened.
Even though I was well to the side it was still very exciting to see a five foot board sailing pass within inches of my head like a helicopter rotor and with enough force to fly at least 15 feet and punch though a drywall wall.
The gouge cut in the oak was at least 1/2 inch deep about 20 inches long in a circular patten just like in the video. You could see the depth change as the wood got to end of the swing, there were only blade teeth marks and I think the last two or so were about 2 inches apart so that tells me the board at that time those teeth hit the wood was moving really really fast.
Lesson learned for me was never never never cut on any saw without a riving knife or blade guard.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
- trainguytom
- Gold Member
- Posts: 324
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:22 pm
- Location: Central WI
re-thinking stuff
I may have to re-think the upper blade guard thing. I do use a riving knife, but I'm going to re-consider the upper blade guard too...never thought I'd say that.
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff