lightnin wrote:Found this on sharpening and setting teeth on saws
Very useful piece! From my experience, it is a very good idea to pay attention to the informatiton about 'cross-cut' vs. 'rip' when setting your saw. A properly set saw will easily make the cut before you can get out the skilsaw, plug it in, and line it up. You can, given enough spare time, learn to fine-tune your saws to your own cutting style. Old knowledge, good to have!
Derek
Derek Darling
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
mountain4don wrote:Are saw files still available somewhere?
I have been able to find the tapered, triangular files at Sears or Sears Hardware stores. Labeled as Ultra Slim, Slim, etc., per saw-tooth pitch. Some forums look upon these as cheapo stuff, but some forums also say Nicholsons have gone "south of the border" and aren't hardened like they used to be. Who knows? But the Sears will do the job if you keep rotating and replacing them as needed.
nuhobby wrote:I have been able to find the tapered, triangular files at Sears or Sears Hardware stores. Labeled as Ultra Slim, Slim, etc., per saw-tooth pitch. Some forums look upon these as cheapo stuff, but some forums also say Nicholsons have gone "south of the border" and aren't hardened like they used to be. Who knows? But the Sears will do the job if you keep rotating and replacing them as needed.
Like so many other items that we might want, the old reliable names are disappearing as is their reliability. In this case, the lack of demand for quality files may be the reason.
See, lesser quality files will probably work. After all, you are not using them every day like a professional saw sharpener would.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
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Those who wish to make a jig can cobble together a device to hold a dremel at a particular set of pre-set angles, and use that to file the teeth with perhaps greater precision than hand-held files. Automatic saw-sharpening devices used just this method, and were the mainstay of many saw-sharpening businesses. I'm going to put some thought to it. I made a block with double angles to use to sharpen band-saw blades while on the saw, this shouldn't be that much more difficult.
Any thoughts?
Derek
Derek Darling
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
derekdarling wrote:Those who wish to make a jig can cobble together a device to hold a dremel at a particular set of pre-set angles, and use that to file the teeth with perhaps greater precision than hand-held files. Automatic saw-sharpening devices used just this method, and were the mainstay of many saw-sharpening businesses. I'm going to put some thought to it. I made a block with double angles to use to sharpen band-saw blades while on the saw, this shouldn't be that much more difficult.
Any thoughts?
Derek
I don't have the time to sharpen saw blades and especially how little cost carbide replacement blades are. However, I believe there is a chapter in the old Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone book depicting a set-up on the SS to grind / sharpen teeth. For coating and storage, Boeshield T9 works well.
Buff and polish if you wish, but that won't make them cut any better.
Now waxing them, that can. As in it lets the sides of the blade slide easier over the wood without getting a sap buildup as rapidly. Yes, I know, the kerf is supposed to prevent contact. Reality intrudes.
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