Some advice needed please!

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:01 am

Good morning.
I'm starting a couple briefcases to hold pistols. The frame will be maple. I'd like to make the sides from solid maple also. However, I'm a bit concerned about wood movement.
The frame corners will be box joints. Rabbets in the frame to receive the side panels is the option I prefer.
Since the lid and the "box" will both be lined with 1" thick compressible foam, I thought about adding a 1X1/2 strip of wood at the bottom of the rabbet for screws to hold the side panes. The screw holes in the strip would be elongated to allow movement of the panels.
In your opinion(s), would this be an acceptable method? Are there better methods?
I really do not want to use veneer over plywood.
Thanks for your help.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:23 am

Rather than putting the solid wood side panels in rabbets, fit the two side panels into grooves/dados cut into the frame (similar to making a raised panel door). But, the nice part about using plywood and veneer is that it results in stable panels.

Use "space balls" in the grooves to keep the panel centered and prevent the panel from rattling during the dry weather season. You can make something akin to space balls by putting down some beads of silicone caulk onto wax paper and then cutting the caulk into 1/4" strips after it dries.

videobear · Post by **videobear** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:48 am

I agree with Pennview...the large face panels should not be fastened to the sides of the case at all, but float. I like his idea of cushioning them with silicone caulk.

For the best appearance, cut all the pieces for the sides of the case from a single board, to wrap the grain around the case.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:52 am

pennview wrote:Rather than putting the solid wood side panels in rabbets, fit the two side panels into grooves/dados cut into the frame (similar to making a raised panel door). But, the nice part about using plywood and veneer is that it results in stable panels.

Use "space balls" in the grooves to keep the panel centered and prevent the panel from rattling during the dry weather season. You can make something akin to space balls by putting down some beads of silicone caulk onto wax paper and then cutting the caulk into 1/4" strips after it dries.

DITTO!

Hmmmm! Caulk bead. Thanks!!!

P.S. Apply one coat of finish to the floating panels prior to assembly. Prevents bald area exposure during 'dry' season.(most of the time in AZ)

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 12:07 pm

Here is my opinion. Depending on the finish you can get away with doing what you are thinking. If the wood is totally encased in a thick poly finish there would be no way moisture could effect the wood.

Unknowingly (one of my first projects) I built a fishing rod storage case. Not knowing anything about wood movement I built it "solid" to withstand knocking around in boat and car. I built it out of solid maple big enough to hold about 6-10 rods depending if the reels were mounted or not.

I knew water would be my enemy so I coated the inside and out with a clear epoxy finish. Put on latches and hinges and have used this thing for 35+ years. No cracks, no splits, no loose joints.

Looking back my guess is the epoxy created a seal environment for the wood thus no swelling or cracking.

The box is exposed to standing water in boats, stuffed in car trunks for weeks, and carried in the back of a pickup exposed to everything and it still lives.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Sep 21, 2012 5:04 pm

Thank you guys for the replies and suggestions.
We are going to the "Big City" of Tucson tomorrow. I'll take a look at WW's Source and Hood Dist. for some decent hardwood plywood. Although, I already have some curly maple dressed and ready to resaw. Guess I can use it somewhere else.

eagleta2 · Post by **eagleta2** » Sat Sep 22, 2012 3:03 pm

Hi Gene

I just thought I'd let you know that I stopped at WWSource in Tempe yesterday... I picked up a piece of 4/4 clear hickory for 3.22/ bf. They had knotty hickory for 2.95, but the clear hickory was much prettier.

Just thought I would share because it is cheap and really nice. Might be a good substitute for you gun cases...

Geo

sailseahawk · Post by **sailseahawk** » Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:10 am

Gene,
To help avoid splitting, you may wish to only glue the sides and panel, where the grain is running in the same direction. Avoid gluing the end-grain of the panel to the ends of the box where the grains go different directions. This works on smaller boxes with a rather strong panel. On larger panels, it may not be good to have the end loose.

I strongly concur with Ed in Tampa. If well sealed, seasonal effect is greatly reduced.

Since you are lining the briefcase, you can also run a bead of silicone around the inside of the panel to help "seal" and hold the panel if you have a true floating panel.

Please post a picture of your project when complete!

Seahawk