bad locks
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- stickthrower
- Gold Member
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:41 pm
- Location: Central MN
bad locks
All of my locks are not holding. I know I had read someplace about these having to be fixed/replaced. I am wondering if I can figure out what the part number is for the locks so I can get my SS to not slide around when I am trying to use it.
I have been trying to do some differen tthings but it just isn't working for me. And I know it isn't safe.
Thanks,
Nathan
I have been trying to do some differen tthings but it just isn't working for me. And I know it isn't safe.
Thanks,
Nathan
central MN
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
If the headstock and carriage are sliding when they should be locked, it is certainly NOT safe.
First try filing the headstock and carriage locks.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9958
Of course you have to remove everything form the way tubes to do this, but you have to do that for a replacement as well. Be careful when loosening the wedges, they are soft aluminum and the lock rods are steel and can be over tightened and stripped. If the threads on the wedges are stripped, then they need to be replaced. If they are just out of shape, they can be filed.
First try filing the headstock and carriage locks.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9958
Of course you have to remove everything form the way tubes to do this, but you have to do that for a replacement as well. Be careful when loosening the wedges, they are soft aluminum and the lock rods are steel and can be over tightened and stripped. If the threads on the wedges are stripped, then they need to be replaced. If they are just out of shape, they can be filed.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
You'll nee part #'s 50,51 and 80 in a assembly. IF ya can't repair yours.
http://www.shopsmith.com/service/headst ... s_list.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/service/headst ... s_list.htm
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- stickthrower
- Gold Member
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:41 pm
- Location: Central MN
Okay, let me follow up with my original post. I am a MORON. I apparently turned them the wrong way, and was tightening them OPEN. I am such an idiot.
Feel like an idiot. Mostly am an idiot.
I turned them just to barely tight, and it held everything in place.
Thank you for your responses though beeg and terrydowning. I do appreciate you giving me the answer.
Nathan
Feel like an idiot. Mostly am an idiot.
I turned them just to barely tight, and it held everything in place.
Thank you for your responses though beeg and terrydowning. I do appreciate you giving me the answer.
Nathan
central MN
To tighten mine, I spin the handle then turn it no more that about a eighth of a turn.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- stickthrower
- Gold Member
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:41 pm
- Location: Central MN
Thanks Letter. Yeah. hard not to when I was ready to break down and tear it apart to try to figure it out.
Beeg, I saw you or someone else post that is what they do on another thread. I did that and everything held tight. Thanks!
Quick question. Far as I can tell, I have the old greenie from the paint job, but I noticed that the Shopsmith disc comes off for access to inside the headstock. so do I have a newer headstock? Or???
I can't see the serial number to look it up. Any thoughts?
Beeg, I saw you or someone else post that is what they do on another thread. I did that and everything held tight. Thanks!
Quick question. Far as I can tell, I have the old greenie from the paint job, but I noticed that the Shopsmith disc comes off for access to inside the headstock. so do I have a newer headstock? Or???
I can't see the serial number to look it up. Any thoughts?
central MN
From Nick Engler and the Sawdust Session on buying a used Shopsmith:stickthrower wrote:Thanks Letter. Yeah. hard not to when I was ready to break down and tear it apart to try to figure it out.
Beeg, I saw you or someone else post that is what they do on another thread. I did that and everything held tight. Thanks!
Quick question. Far as I can tell, I have the old greenie from the paint job, but I noticed that the Shopsmith disc comes off for access to inside the headstock. so do I have a newer headstock? Or???
I can't see the serial number to look it up. Any thoughts?
"Early headstocks made in 1954 and 1955 had no access hole (covered by a
Shopsmith logo) on the side of the headstock]http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... rk%20V.pdf[/url]
Also the FAQ at Shopsmith.com
"1953 to 1960 (Green)
These units had a Gilmer Drive System (the inside of the top belt is like a tank track). These units were a single bearing spindle. 3/4 Hp motor was the standard.
- stickthrower
- Gold Member
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2012 5:41 pm
- Location: Central MN
It is late enough that they added the hole for maintenance by the time your machine was made. If I'm understanding correctly, the original headstocks were made by sand-casting until they had molds made.stickthrower wrote:Thanks Letter!
I found the serial, it is a 56 3/4 hp. from what I can tell. 341060
But it is ported, so someone must have had that done.