Can't adjust quill tension.
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Can't adjust quill tension.
I took the quill out to clean and when I was trying to install it I let the tension release and I can't get any the tension in the quill return. The quill handle will only rotate one turn and becomes too tight to turn anymore. Could the spring be broken? Thanks
Looking at the front of the machine (power switch side), you should be turning the quill feed clockwise about 3 full turns to tension the spring before reinstalling the quill into the headstock. If you are not able to do that, the spring could have disengaged from the quill feed shaft or it could be broken. To determine that you will need to remove the quill feed shaft and spring/housing and inspect the spring.godavid2 wrote:I took the quill out to clean and when I was trying to install it I let the tension release and I can't get any the tension in the quill return. The quill handle will only rotate one turn and becomes too tight to turn anymore. Could the spring be broken? Thanks
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Yes, take it apart one more time and make sure the spring is properly engaged in the keepers so you can wind it up. Sometimes the spring disconnects because the end is bent wrong. Once you have it properly connected, you can wind it the proper amount so it works again. It is pretty simple mechanics once you get it apart and see how it works.
Is the "too tight to turn" happening when turning the quill feed clockwise, or counter-clockwise (relative to the "front" of the machine as SDSSmith said)?godavid2 wrote:I took the quill out to clean and when I was trying to install it I let the tension release and I can't get any the tension in the quill return. The quill handle will only rotate one turn and becomes too tight to turn anymore. Could the spring be broken? Thanks
Is this happening while trying to re-install the quill and you're trying to build up the tension by turning it clockwise as mentioned in SDSSmith's post? You wouldn't happen to have the depth lock set and it's not letting you advance the quill handle, would you?
Or is the "to tight to turn" happening while trying to turn the quill feed counter clockwise to pull the quill back into the headstock? If that's the case, then follow SDSSmith's instructions. If that fails, follow garys's instructions.

Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Pull the quill completely out again.
Remove the quill STOP wing nut and graduated 'knob'.
Rotate the quill feed shaft clockwise.
If it engages the spring so tension increases, then stop after about 4 turns. Clamp in in that position by tightening the quill LOCK.
If it does not engage the spring, like said above ya gotta get inside to reattach the spring to the quill feed shaft.
Only after setting the spring tension should you attempt to reinsert the quill.
Remove the quill STOP wing nut and graduated 'knob'.
Rotate the quill feed shaft clockwise.
If it engages the spring so tension increases, then stop after about 4 turns. Clamp in in that position by tightening the quill LOCK.

If it does not engage the spring, like said above ya gotta get inside to reattach the spring to the quill feed shaft.

Only after setting the spring tension should you attempt to reinsert the quill.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Patience and care.
The way I do it is to hook the spring on the quill feed bar. Wind it up enough that you can still hold it all together with one hand. Hook the other end into the spring cover. With one hand on the cover, the other hand gripping the bar, tighten up the spring until the cover will fit over it. It can be rather difficult and it might take a few tries.
Someone else might have a better method, but this has worked for me.
The way I do it is to hook the spring on the quill feed bar. Wind it up enough that you can still hold it all together with one hand. Hook the other end into the spring cover. With one hand on the cover, the other hand gripping the bar, tighten up the spring until the cover will fit over it. It can be rather difficult and it might take a few tries.
Someone else might have a better method, but this has worked for me.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
My 'method' starts with shaping the spring end with the keyhole so that when the shaft is inserted into the spring housing, rotating the shaft will cause the pin to drop into the keyway hole, and further rotation forces the pin into the 'narrows' and additional rotation begins tensioning.
Forming the spring is not for the faint of heart nor those with too many opposable thumbs. Trick is to not over stress/bend the spring in a localized area.
BTW DO keep the spring IN the housing!!!:eek: Pulling the end out slightly can be helpful though.
Forming the spring is not for the faint of heart nor those with too many opposable thumbs. Trick is to not over stress/bend the spring in a localized area.
BTW DO keep the spring IN the housing!!!:eek: Pulling the end out slightly can be helpful though.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I wear long leather gloves that helps prevent cuts and scratches if the spring gets away from me as it does sometimes. It may still numb your finger(s). Yes, be careful not to bend the spring very much around the keyhole slot as it does break after bending a few times.godavid2 wrote:How does one get the spring back into the housing without losing hand? thanks
I remove the spring from the housing carefully. I hook the keyhole slot on the shaft stud and then wrap the spring tighter and tighter until I can slip the housing over part of the spring. Then I tap the spring into the housing. I have a hole in my bench where I place the spring againest the bench and push the housing over the spring. Make sure you mount the spring for the proper direction as you can mount the spring on backward that does not work.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)