my quill keeps backing off

rgalloway1979 · Post by **rgalloway1979** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:36 pm

i recently purchased a MARK V 500 and a bunch of accessories.
when using my table saw i noticed that the quill starts to suck back in once i begin cutting with it. i have tighened down the locks (Even mith a mallet) but it still moves. it doesn't move while it is spinning freely. any advise would be very helpful!

Thanks,
Robert

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 2:46 pm

rgalloway1979 wrote:i recently purchased a MARK V 500 and a bunch of accessories.
when using my table saw i noticed that the quill starts to suck back in once i begin cutting with it. i have tighened down the locks (Even mith a mallet) but it still moves. it doesn't move while it is spinning freely. any advise would be very helpful!

Thanks,
Robert

First thing is to stop hitting the lock with a mallet:eek: .

Next thing is to remove the lock handle and reverst the knurled washers so that the knurled sides connect with each other. At least I think I remember that's the way it goes. If that doesn't work reverse the washers.

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Mon Oct 15, 2012 3:30 pm

charlese wrote:First thing is to stop hitting the lock with a mallet:eek: .

Next thing is to remove the lock handle and reverst the knurled washers so that the knurled sides connect with each other. At least I think I remember that's the way it goes. If that doesn't work reverse the washers.

The knurled and keyed washers are on the depth stop side of the quill.

For the quill lock, I would make sure that you have the spring washer that belongs on the quill lock side of the feed outside the quill feed sleeve. The other thing would be a missing dome washer inside the headstock and inboard of the sleeve. Here is a the parts diagram for the quill feed to make sure you have all of the parts you are supposed to.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Oct 16, 2012 12:25 pm

charlese wrote:First thing is to stop hitting the lock with a mallet:eek: .

Next thing is to remove the lock handle and reverst the knurled washers so that the knurled sides connect with each other. At least I think I remember that's the way it goes. If that doesn't work reverse the washers.

Aside from the quill LOCK not having serrated washer(s):D, the washers ARE assembled with the scruffy face towards the quill/depth stop dial. One each on the inside and the outside. The tabs in the quill feed shaft keyway allow the washers to firmly grasp the dial thus allowing it to limit travel(the stop inside of the dial will come in contact with a post on the headstock).

rgalloway1979 · Post by **rgalloway1979** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 12:14 am

The you all for the advise I will take it appart this weekend. And I was lightly tapping it with the mallet, but no more I promise!:-)

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:01 pm

This weekend - do what JPG said!:D

Thanks, Red!

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 7:29 pm

Why are you using the table saw mode with the quill extended? The table saw is normally used with the quill fully retracted. Regardless, the quill should not move after the lock is tightened. Make sure that all the parts on the pinion shaft are in place and that nothing is missing. Also the domed washer on the pinion shaft should have the dome of the washer facing the operator's side of the machine. When you remove the pinion shaft, tie a string to the shaft on the operator's side so the domed washer does not fall into the headstock.
Bill V

rgalloway1979 · Post by **rgalloway1979** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 5:59 pm

Bill, the woodworking book that I got with the machine said to use the quill to make fine adjustments to get the blade where i need it with for the right cuts. but if that is a bad idea ill just adjust the fence next time.
Thanks for the help!

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:52 pm

You can move the quill for exact tweaking but for normal cuts the quill should be retracted. The tweaking should be used to adjust the width of a dado or groove as examples. Also SS recommends that you do a 5 point check before making any cuts. The checks are Quill feed locked, headstock to way tubes locks locked, table tilt locks locked, carriage lock locked and height adjustment locked. These checks will help to prevent unwanted movement
Bill V

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Tue Oct 23, 2012 9:39 pm

rgalloway1979 wrote:Bill, the woodworking book that I got with the machine said to use the quill to make fine adjustments to get the blade where i need it with for the right cuts. but if that is a bad idea ill just adjust the fence next time.
Thanks for the help!

Your technique is an acceptable practice and you will find it referenced in a number of Shopsmith's publications.