Is the SS mortising unit worth the money and the time for set up ect. or does a dedicated machine really do a much better job?
Please rate with experience hopefully:
SS Mortising Package
Jet Mortiser 708580 JBM5
Delta Mortiser 14651
Powermatic Mortiser 1791310 PM701
Mortising Reviews Wanted
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Mortising Reviews Wanted
R Hart
The Shopsmit table will flex as a result of the downward pressure from the chisel entering the wood, so it's best to put something like a 4x4 between the table and the floor directly below the spindle. The other requirement is that the chisel be honed well, both the outside surfaces and the interior as well. I've used a Dremel tool with a small teardrop shape stone for the inside of the chisel that seems to work well. And, the Shopsmith's variable speed is a plus when cutting mortises.
I've used a bench top mortise machine from Harbor Freight that worked fine after the cheap PRC-made chisels were replaced with an equally cheap set from Taiwan. As long as the replacement chisels were honed, the HF model worked well. The depth stop, however, was made of plastic and didn't work very well, but if you pay attention is was OK. You could probably replace the plastic part with a steel collar for a few dollars.
I've no experience with the models you mention, but I'd expect that whichever one(s) run at 1725 RPM may prove a better choice because it is very easy to overheat the bit if things are a bit dull, especially when mortising into dense woods.
I've used a bench top mortise machine from Harbor Freight that worked fine after the cheap PRC-made chisels were replaced with an equally cheap set from Taiwan. As long as the replacement chisels were honed, the HF model worked well. The depth stop, however, was made of plastic and didn't work very well, but if you pay attention is was OK. You could probably replace the plastic part with a steel collar for a few dollars.
I've no experience with the models you mention, but I'd expect that whichever one(s) run at 1725 RPM may prove a better choice because it is very easy to overheat the bit if things are a bit dull, especially when mortising into dense woods.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
major_bob wrote:Woodcraft has the Wood River mortiser on sale until the end of Nov. I believe it is a rebranded Steel City (looks exactly the same). Can't beat the price. I'm probably picking one up as an early Xmas gift to myself.
Believe the same mortiser, Steel City, is rebadged as a Craftsman. On Craftsman.com you can find it where still in stock for $149.99. It has limited availability at this time.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-holl ... 921907000P
Hi,
The only drill press type mortising set up I have is the shopsmith one. Many many years ago when I first set to start using it I noticed that after the cut it was hard to return the quill, the bit would stick in the wood. After looking at what was happening it was obvious that the table was moving during the cut and thus the hole was be cut less then straight up and down. My solution was a 2x4 extending to the floor with a top notch to stabilize the main table. That problem solved the next issue was to sharpen the chisel and bring it to an almost mirror finish on the outside. The inside was done with the grinding bits provided with the kit. At the time there were two angles so two wheels.
You have to remember that only the center has the wood being cut by the drill, the chisel is cutting the rest of the square, it has to be sharp or it will not work right. The bit also needs to be adjusted so it has room to remove the chips, if not it heats up and things go wrong.
Mortising machines have the advantage of a longer arm then drill presses do so the shopsmith like any drill press will take more effort to use. If you are OK with going a little slower then this should not be a big deal.
So, in my opinion it does work and you can do most jobs with it. If I had to work for days and days mortising I'd opt for a stand-a-lone or other option. Occasional projects use it is fine.
Now after having said that, I don't use it much anymore. Routers in my opinion are the way to go. Some here use the shopsmith in routing mode to do this, and from what I understand are quite happy with it. If you happen to have the new power pro then all the better. I'd look at the router option before buying another tool.
You can read some more on the subject here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routin ... m#mortises
Ed
The only drill press type mortising set up I have is the shopsmith one. Many many years ago when I first set to start using it I noticed that after the cut it was hard to return the quill, the bit would stick in the wood. After looking at what was happening it was obvious that the table was moving during the cut and thus the hole was be cut less then straight up and down. My solution was a 2x4 extending to the floor with a top notch to stabilize the main table. That problem solved the next issue was to sharpen the chisel and bring it to an almost mirror finish on the outside. The inside was done with the grinding bits provided with the kit. At the time there were two angles so two wheels.
You have to remember that only the center has the wood being cut by the drill, the chisel is cutting the rest of the square, it has to be sharp or it will not work right. The bit also needs to be adjusted so it has room to remove the chips, if not it heats up and things go wrong.
Mortising machines have the advantage of a longer arm then drill presses do so the shopsmith like any drill press will take more effort to use. If you are OK with going a little slower then this should not be a big deal.
So, in my opinion it does work and you can do most jobs with it. If I had to work for days and days mortising I'd opt for a stand-a-lone or other option. Occasional projects use it is fine.
Now after having said that, I don't use it much anymore. Routers in my opinion are the way to go. Some here use the shopsmith in routing mode to do this, and from what I understand are quite happy with it. If you happen to have the new power pro then all the better. I'd look at the router option before buying another tool.
You can read some more on the subject here:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/routin ... m#mortises
Ed
letterk wrote:Believe the same mortiser, Steel City, is rebadged as a Craftsman. On Craftsman.com you can find it where still in stock for $149.99. It has limited availability at this time.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-holl ... 921907000P
Thanks to "letterk" I found the Craftsman model on clearance for $128 ! There were only 2 left in the state. I bought both -- one for myself and one as a Christmas gift.
Bob
LTC, US Army
Ft. Leonard Wood, MO
Hoo-ah !
LTC, US Army
Ft. Leonard Wood, MO
Hoo-ah !
Wow, nice deal! It doesn't look to have the wings that the Woodriver has, but for $70 less or $90+ in your case I think I can make do. Looks like they are clearancing out the store displays, which may be incomplete on the Sears Outlet site too for less than $100.major_bob wrote:Thanks to "letterk" I found the Craftsman model on clearance for $128 ! There were only 2 left in the state. I bought both -- one for myself and one as a Christmas gift.