As do I but not comfortable with it for lathe turning tools. Jimvideobear wrote:I like the WorkSharp 3000
Grinder Reviews Wanted
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- cincinnati
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1172
- Joined: Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:40 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
stephen_a._draper wrote:I recommend you look at Steel City. It is American Made and comes with a 5 year warranty. I have this one and it is a great variable speed.
http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/produ ... tool=15420
I could be wrong on this one but don't think anything from Steel City is American made. Where do you see it advertised as such?
"Prove to all the world Metal rules the land"
-Judas Priest, Heavy Duty.
-Judas Priest, Heavy Duty.
On the Steel City web site under about us I found snip....cincinnati wrote:I could be wrong on this one but don't think anything from Steel City is American made. Where do you see it advertised as such?
Together, they have been actively involved in every aspect of the woodworking machinery business and have built an extensive network of the best suppliers and manufacturing connections in Taiwan and mainland China. We also currently have an extended staff of 15 seasoned professionals, with an average of 26 years of experience in the business, along with an enthusiastic team of support employees.
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
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bobgroh
- Gold Member
- Posts: 400
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 1:12 pm
- Location: Just east of Kansas City, Missouri
My comments on grinders and sharpening in general.
I am still 'evolving' on the subject - i.e. I haven't found a perfect answer yet! The answer seems to be a multiple answer because the items we are sharpening have different requirements! As an example, sharpening an axe with a diamond stone would be a bit of a stretch whereas sharpening a small gouge for carving with a grinder with a grey stone would be awful!
So I have a Woodcraft 8" slow speed grinder with the Wolvering setup for my lathe chisels. Works very nice although I have had to upgrade the bushings in the wheels as well as spend an outrageous amount of money for the diamond wheel dressing rig (a cheap diamond wheel dresser just didn't get the job done!). I do like having a sharpening setup for lathe tools that is independent of my lathe! (a SS Mark V).
I have purchased the Lee Valley honing guide for my chisels and plane irons (so far just using oil and water stones). I also have an Eclipse honing guide for those cases where it works well. And, despite all that, I still use the sanding disk on my SS for serious reworking of chisels before moving to the honing guide(s).
So that is 3 basic systems so far. Oh, and a Drill Doctor for drill bits (I am so tired of dull drill bits!!!!!). And I really need a fine honing setup (wheel plus adhesive). Maybe some day I'll be able to cover all bases. I am very much still a nubie but I do hate dull tools.
I am still 'evolving' on the subject - i.e. I haven't found a perfect answer yet! The answer seems to be a multiple answer because the items we are sharpening have different requirements! As an example, sharpening an axe with a diamond stone would be a bit of a stretch whereas sharpening a small gouge for carving with a grinder with a grey stone would be awful!
So I have a Woodcraft 8" slow speed grinder with the Wolvering setup for my lathe chisels. Works very nice although I have had to upgrade the bushings in the wheels as well as spend an outrageous amount of money for the diamond wheel dressing rig (a cheap diamond wheel dresser just didn't get the job done!). I do like having a sharpening setup for lathe tools that is independent of my lathe! (a SS Mark V).
I have purchased the Lee Valley honing guide for my chisels and plane irons (so far just using oil and water stones). I also have an Eclipse honing guide for those cases where it works well. And, despite all that, I still use the sanding disk on my SS for serious reworking of chisels before moving to the honing guide(s).
So that is 3 basic systems so far. Oh, and a Drill Doctor for drill bits (I am so tired of dull drill bits!!!!!). And I really need a fine honing setup (wheel plus adhesive). Maybe some day I'll be able to cover all bases. I am very much still a nubie but I do hate dull tools.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
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1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)
--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
So how do you like that drill Dr.?bobgroh wrote: Oh, and a Drill Doctor for drill bits (I am so tired of dull drill bits!!!!!).
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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foxtrapper
- Gold Member
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am
I've got one, and love it. Yes, I can sharpen bits freehand, and have for many years. And I've got/had various other sharpening jigs/tools. The Drill Dr beats them all, far and away. It's quick and easy, once you understand how to use the machine. Watch the DVD, and then it all makes sense.beeg wrote:So how do you like that drill Dr.?
I also have a Drill Doctor and also love it. It's very quick and easy, and gives great results.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Well Ed some of us just want it all.Ed in Tampa wrote:I'm curious why would a SS owner want a bench grinder?
After all we have the disk sander which does an excellent job on grinding.
Strip sander cited by the experts as be able to provide the sharpest grinds.
Conical sander which can shape or grind most anything.
Belt sander to really hog down metal.
And I think SS still sells grinder and grinder stone setup for SS.
Along with these we have the sharpening jig, and tons of homemade jigs to sharpen just about any tool or tool surface.
I have a bench grinder that I don't think I used since I got the SS. So I'm curious what is up with a bench grinder?
Yes I have the set of shopsmith related sanding gear, and yes I do use them, in fact I'm an especially big fan of the strip sander with the sharpening attachment (555812). I also have the older sharpening guide (555204) as well. I even have some homemade attachments so I'm pretty well stocked up on sharpening items.
The issue for me is that grinding doesn't always equal sharpening. I've been using grinders for a lot of years and feel comfortable using them for a lot of projects. If say I want to reshape a lathe tool I'm most likely to do the reshape on a grinder then go to another tool to put the final edge on it.
Another example might be something I'm working on now, I'm making a lathe tool to except carbide inserts. The bar stock needs to have several operations done to it. I like to use an angle grinder to do the rounding for the portion that goes in the handle, the section where the cutter goes will be done at the grinder, followed by wire brushing also at the grinder. I would not feel comfortable doing any of those operations on the shopsmith.
And in my case I'm going to replace a well worn old unit and might want something a bit nicer then what I have. You may not use yours but I sure do use mine and I plan to keep doing so.
Ed