Table Insert Mod Allows Micro Leveling

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 10:58 am

Ed in Tampa wrote:I have never had a problem leveling my inserts to my table. All my SS inserts have a slight bend in them (I think Shopsmith calls it "coining") so when the back is tighten down the front of the insert is proud of the table about 1/8" or so. I then tighten the front hold down screw down until the insert is level with the table.

I've read that but the insert on my table (circa 2000) is flat as a pancake. There's no coining and the front doesn't spring up no matter how hard you tighten the back.

With the modification, this is no longer a problem for me.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:00 am

pennview wrote:To strengthen the threads in wood, plywood, hardboard, etc., use some thin CA (super glue) on the threads. After it dries, add another coat or two, and then clean up the threads with the tap and you should get some solid threads in those materials.

Nice tip, Art, thanks.

Al

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:26 pm

algale wrote:I've read that but the insert on my table (circa 2000) is flat as a pancake. There's no coining and the front doesn't spring up no matter how hard you tighten the back.

With the modification, this is no longer a problem for me.

I wonder if the coining is something that has gotten forgot about through the years? If the inserts are perfectly flat now I would guess the designer of the SS included it and then over time that step in manufacturing was forgotten. Either that or quality control is shot!

videobear · Post by **videobear** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 5:56 pm

Could you use Tee nuts on the backs of the zero clearance wood inserts, instead of trying to thread the wood itself?

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 7:10 pm

videobear wrote:Could you use Tee nuts on the backs of the zero clearance wood inserts, instead of trying to thread the wood itself?

Do they make T-nuts that small?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Nov 10, 2012 7:27 pm

algale wrote:Do they make T-nuts that small?

Thread size, yes. That short, no.

The 'coining'(more like intentional warping) was done on the Mark 5 etc. I have not seen much coining on the very few 510 inserts that I have.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:58 am

Another use for CA (super glue) is to use it like thread locker if you have a problem with the set screws loosening up from vibration with use of the modified metal table insert. After alignment of the insert, simply allow some thin CA to wick down the threads. Clean the threads first with alcohol, adjust, and add the CA. Acetone will dissolve or debond the CA (as does heat) should you need to remove the set screws.

algale · Post by **algale** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:07 am

pennview wrote:Another use for CA (super glue) is to use it like thread locker if you have a problem with the set screws loosening up from vibration with use of the modified metal table insert. After alignment of the insert, simply allow some thin CA to wick down the threads. Clean the threads first with alcohol, adjust, and add the CA. Acetone will dissolve or debond the CA (as does heat) should you need to remove the set screws.

Thanks again, Art. But why not just use loctite or some other thread locker?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:10 am

algale wrote:Thanks again, Art. But why not just use loctite or some other thread locker?

Tis nice to have 'options'.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:55 am

It's just a matter of versatility. I always keep thin CA around for repairing defects, etc., in wood, so that's why I'd use it. But if I wanted to secure something with difficult access, I'd likely use loctite or another thread locker.