Please check my switch hook up

[JPG]

In regards to "cut"cord to the motor, the black outer insulation that houses the black and white wire is solid. There is a like a permanent bend in the cord I think from how it was situated in the motor pan. Do you see another cut or something out of place that I do not notice?

At the bottom of the pix, the outer jacket is definitely cut. It could be the pix edge is not including the wires themselves.

Have you put the motor 'back together' yet?

[rdavidp]

Yes, at the picture edge the black cord insulation is removed to expose the white and black wire to hook up to the switch. As for the motor back together, yes. When I removed the four long screws, I was able to remove the center rod that had a thicker black cylinder on it. I inspected it for dust and down the inside of the housing too. That is al the part that I removed. I then put that back in and screwed the four long screws back in.

Here are photos of how far I took the motor apart.



Also since there were questions about the cord to the motor and it possibly being cut versus picture edge, here is the full cord that runs from the switch to the motor.

[dusty]

The good news is the appearance of the motor windings. There is no sign of heat. I won't be surprised when you put it back together that it works.

The thicker black cylinder to which you refer is the motor armature. On the left end of that shaft is part of the centrifugal switch. Just thought I would capture the moment.

[rdavidp]

I tried to use my new multimeter this morning to check the resistance on the toggle switch. I just could not get the multimeter to do right, more on that later. Frustrated, I just unhooked the switch, took a bit of spare white and black wire and put male blade connectors on each end. I hooked white to white and black to black, and bypassed the switch. In my shop, I have a circuit in which all the wall sockets are controlled by a light switch. Flip the switch on, and the sockets have power, flip it off and then you have no power. I made sure the light switch was flipped off, plugged the motor into one of the sockets, and flipped the light switch on. This video shows the result.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g1SdmS7v7aQ

Looks like I will be ordering a new Shopsmith switch.

Back to the multimeter. I could not get it to work to save my life. Red probed plugged into the Ohm socket, black probe plugged into the COM socket. Multimeter switched to 200 on the Ohm dial. As I was putting the multimeter back into the package, a piece of plastic slipped off the end of the black probe. Yup, I was trying to test with the probe covers on. The little bit of instructions did not mention anything about there being covers on the probe. Now I test the switch itself. In the off position, read out does not change. Digital multimeter by the way. I then flip the switch on, one side read 28 and fluctuated a little, and the other side read nothing.

[JPG]

I be a bit concerned re the noise. It sounds like something is rubbing/hitting against something. A likely candidate is the start switch mechanism.

Then again, maybe something is 'loose' outside the motor.

I would definitely determine the source of that sound.

The fan sheave is a possibly villain if it is attached.

[dgale]

When I use my mutlimeter for continuity testing, it has a "Cont" setting - put it in this mode and touch the two probes and the meter beeps. So in this case you would touch the probes to both sides of the switch and there should be nothing with the switch off and the meter should beep with the switch on. Anyway, looks like from your video that you definitely identified the switch as the culprit. I agree there's lots of noise there - maybe it's how you have the motor mounted for the test but definitely make sure you put it back together correctly after you disassembled it and otherwise determine what the source of the noise is before you put the whole thing back together.

[dusty]

I think you better pull the motor apart again!! That is way too much noise and it sounds to me like metal on metal.

[pennview]

Also, run the motor after removing it from the headstock to help isolate the source of the noise.

[rdavidp]

I was hoping someone would pick up on the noise, and it wasn't just me being paranoid. That video is of the second time I flipped the light switch to turn the motor on. The first time I turned the motor on, for about the same amount of time, the motor sounded ok. I then turned on again a couple of minutes later, and that is the video I posted. Monday I will try to see what is making the noise. As for the fan sheeve JPG mentioned, I took off the fly wheel that slides along the sheeve when I first started cleaning the shopsmith, so the only wheel on the motor is the one that seems to be somewhat permanently attached, or atleast attached enough for me to not to try to remove it.

[JPG]

I was hoping someone would pick up on the noise, and it wasn't just me being paranoid. That video is of the second time I flipped the light switch to turn the motor on. The first time I turned the motor on, for about the same amount of time, the motor sounded ok. I then turned on again a couple of minutes later, and that is the video I posted. Monday I will try to see what is making the noise. As for the fan sheeve JPG mentioned, I took off the fly wheel that slides along the sheeve when I first started cleaning the shopsmith, so the only wheel on the motor is the one that seems to be somewhat permanently attached, or atleast attached enough for me to not to try to remove it.

The motor shaft has a fan sheave and a floating sheave that make up the motor pulley. A second look at the video indicates the fan sheave is still attached. The floating sheave is what slides along the shaft. A key aligns the the sheaves. There is a setscrew that secures both the fan sheave sand the key on the shaft. You already know about the spring etc.

I am trying to remember which motor version has tapped holes in the fan end and which has nuts. If yours has nuts, one may be rubbing against the fan sheave.

The nuts(or tapped holes) may be seen by looking into the fan outlet. The nuts are supposed to be in hex shaped depressions so they are not proud of the motor end cap. Only thing proud of the cap is a spacer that is on the motor shaft that locates the fan sheave away from the cap.

If the end cap is not aligned properly with the motor outer shell or 'cocked', the fan blades may be hitting the fan 'shroud'.

FWIW, I place the shaft end cap on first(with or without the armature), and attach the other end cap last. The end caps need to be seated onto the outer motor shell prior to inserting screws.