Jim McCann's Crosscut Blade Review

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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My go to Saw Blade is:

I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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43%
I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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11%
I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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47%
I subscribe to the Roy Underhill method - handsaw
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Total votes: 47

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algale
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Post by algale »

pennview wrote:You have a couple of choices from Forrest who make a blade capable of making a near flat kerf where every fifth tooth is a raker set at .010" below the ATB teeth. You need to order a Woodworker II with a #6 grind. They also make one that makes a perfectly flat bottom kerf, the Woodworker II with a #1 grind.

Forrest also sells a Woodworker II blade with the 1 1/4" hole that costs about $20 more than the conventional blade.
Thanks for the info, Art. Any idea what trade-offs there are in going with the #6 or #1 versus the standard (at least I assumed it was standard) grind that has no raker?

Al
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

pennview
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Post by pennview »

I've not seen the #6 grind, but I'd expect that it would perform similarly to the standard Woodworker II blade because it is quite similar in design except for the raker teeth. The #1 grind is meant for finger/box joints, for cutting slots for feathers/keys, or skinny dados, so it's meant to only cut partially through the wood and it provided a very clean cut from what I recall seeing years ago from a guy making the woodworking show circuit. He sold a plastic jig that allowed you to make perfect 1/8" finger joints for box corners. I bought one of the jigs, but never bought the Forrest blade.

I have several blades that cut flat bottom kerfs. One is a Freud 10" 60 tooth thin kerf blade with a flat grind that I use for cutting slots for feathers/keys in box corners, but the writing on the blade is worn off so I'm not sure what the model number is. I believe the blade is out of production. I also have a Vermont American 7 1/4" ultra thin flat grind blade that was called a Lightening blade, but that too is out of production.

Slitting/slotting saw blades used on a milling machine for sawing slots in metal will make square-bottomed slots as well, but you'd need a special arbor to mount them. And, since they're usually small in diameter, cutting slots with them on a Shopsmith requires an unconventional set-up.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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mrhart
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Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2010 4:38 pm
Location: Meridian Idaho

Post by mrhart »

mrhart wrote:I hope it would be a good all around blade, mine is in Colorado headed this way. The blades I aquired have all had some use. I splurged and had to get at least one new blade, so based on that review and the e-mail, I ordered one.


My new SS Crosscut 60 tooth blade arrived this week :D and I got to make a couple test cuts with it. Wow, you dont realize what you're used to until you mount up a new one! I need to spend some time with it, lots of things planned the new few weeks. I'll post one more "after" review.
R Hart
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dusty
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Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona

Post by dusty »

Maybe I need to buy a couple new blades.:)

These old ones are just not as exciting as they could be. A couple new blades would make real good Secret Sant gifts (and I do mean SECRET). It would be real hard to justify new blades with all the blades I have hanging around the shop.

But how will I ever know if I don't try out the new Shopsmith blade.:rolleyes:
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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