Removing the strain relief

[dusty]

S'allright! Dusty has chassis pushes!

Yes the Greenlee chassis punches are less robust than the electrician's version.

I have used a large(> 1")chassis punch successfully on a motor pan.

I misspoke (I guess). The punches that I have are by Greenlee but I do not have the hydraulic version. I have to use a wrench to turn mine. I've punched a lot of holes in electrical panels and have never had problems BUT I don't think any of those panels were as healthy as the motor pan.

However, if JPG says the Greenlee will work, it must work. I'll not punch a hole in the motor pan just to find out though.

[JPG]

I misspoke (I guess). The punches that I have are by Greenlee but I do not have the hydraulic version. I have to use a wrench to turn mine. I've punched a lot of holes in electrical panels and have never had problems BUT I don't think any of those panels were as healthy as the motor pan.

However, if JPG says the Greenlee will work, it must work. I'll not punch a hole in the motor pan just to find out though.

The chassis punches I have are merely the straight screw feed type. Screws with bearings are available and make wrench pulling much easier.

Greenlee says 'mild steel'. I think the motor pan is tougher than that.

Howsoever it was 'drawn' into it's shape.

Maybe it is 'work' hardened.

I did not say it was 'easy'!:eek:

[rwilabee]

One important thing it probably does is keep the cord from pulling on the switch connections

[griffmeister]

The chassis punches I have are merely the straight screw feed type. Screws with bearings are available and make wrench pulling much easier.

Greenlee says 'mild steel'. I think the motor pan is tougher than that.

Howsoever it was 'drawn' into it's shape.

Maybe it is 'work' hardened.

I did not say it was 'easy'!:eek:

I'm guessing the motor pan is stronger since most(?) electrical panels don't have a 1 1/8 HP motor bolted up to them.
Didn't even think of hardware stores. The one in town is a True Value, but there's an Ace one town over. Local Home Depot didn't have squat. Didn't the description say for .500 to .625 cable? That is huge, I don't think a 12/3 is even .250 but I haven't checked yet. That's okay, you guys have given me plenty to go on now, thanks.
On a side note, just did the Bill Mayo mod on the pork chop today. Now the speed control is solid and smooth. The trick now is remembering how all the pieces go back into the case, especially that little spring that goes under the speed indicator. Looks like it's time to go back and watch the videos.

[JPG]

. . . that little spring that goes under the speed indicator. Looks like it's time to go back and watch the videos.

When you position it properly, you will think 'surely that is not right'.

One end goes in a hole, the other end slides in a groove. The 'bump' is proud.

[rdavidp]

The frustration never ends. The strain reliefs that I bought at Home Depot yesterday are just a fraction too big. The strain relief that I bought is a real low profile with threads on it with a nut. On the part that goes inside is an adjustable clamp to fit the cord. When I say a fraction too big, the very edge of the threads are blocked. If a little bit of metal was shaved off the strain relief hole on the motor pan, it would fit perfect. Seriously maybe a 1/16 of an inch, may less needs to be removed. These are the smallest size strain reliefs HD had for this style. I am thinking some kind of heavy duty metal file or some kind of grinder for the dremel.

[JPG]

The frustration never ends. The strain reliefs that I bought at Home Depot yesterday are just a fraction too big. The strain relief that I bought is a real low profile with threads on it with a nut. On the part that goes inside is an adjustable clamp to fit the cord. When I say a fraction too big, the very edge of the threads are blocked. If a little bit of metal was shaved off the strain relief hole on the motor pan, it would fit perfect. Seriously maybe a 1/16 of an inch, may less needs to be removed. These are the smallest size strain reliefs HD had for this style. I am thinking some kind of heavy duty metal file or some kind of grinder for the dremel.

The nut goes inside, the clamp goes outside.

Here is my favorite(intended for use with BX(flexible armored cable), but works with cords. Position so cord exits facing towards the fan exhaust.

[ATTACH]19042[/ATTACH]

[dusty]

I'm sorry but in my opinion any strain relief other than the Heyco style that I referenced earlier in this thread is a Rube job when used on the headstock.

That's MY position and I am sticking to it. I went to ACE today and found the strain relief that I would use. It is a Hillman part number 58242. If a larger cord (12/3) is used, there is a connector in this same series that would work. The larger connector requires a larger hole. This same line of parts (Hillman) is available in stores other than ACE. I thing they are available is the BORG.

There is a similar part available here.

Here is a tool that works for both styles referenced above.

Notice that these same style bushings are available for flat cable (phone, internet as well.

[pennview]

For enlarging holes in sheet metal, you can use a step-drill. Here's one from Harbor Freight -- http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarte ... 44460.html -- but they also have others that will drill larger holes.

[JPG]

I'm sorry but in my opinion any strain relief other than the Heyco style that I referenced earlier in this thread is a Rube job when used on the headstock.

Rube? FWIW more better(stronger, actual strain relieving[as opposed to securing only]) is IMHO preferable.

The heyco clamp serves its purpose well(an inexpensive time effective clamp using small foot print) for production.

Truth be told, almost all clamps provide a stress concentration point, but those with springs(metal or plastic or rubber) actually distribute that stress and do provide strain relief.