Advice on waxing tubes and other SS parts
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Advice on waxing tubes and other SS parts
I have a big tin of the Minwax Paste Finishing Wax and am overdue to give my machine a waxing...I read the alignment and maintenance booklet that SS sent to me and all it really says about this is to apply sparingly and buff out. So I thought I'd check with others on what their preferred approach to this is - I assume I just apply with a lint-free shop towel but what do people advise for the buffing part? Also, my plan was to wax the bench and way tubes, support tubes, and quill, but I noticed the SS booklet mentioned waxing the main and extension table surfaces, miter gauge slots and bar, and both sides of rip fence. Any advice on all of this? I definitely want to do a thorough maintenance job on my machine as it's overdue to say the least but am a bit worried about residual wax being on things like the tables, rip fence etc.
I use paper towels (Bounty) to buff off the dried wax. I also use Minwax wax, but many prefer Johnsons paste wax. You should wax everything you mentioned including the tables and fence, which make your lumber glide over the table surfaces. Buffing removes whatever residue is there after application. If you have a jointer, planer, or bandsaw, wax on the tables and fences should be done as well.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
- JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I apply with fingers! I buff with what ever is handy
(clean rag preferred).
Body heat(from the fingers) helps liquify the wax for coverage.
Main thing is to get an even, thin coat.
Ever shined shoes? Same thing. Same wax!
Everything slides smoother when waxed.
Table tops - make sure there is no residual 'soft'(paste).
(clean rag preferred).
Body heat(from the fingers) helps liquify the wax for coverage.
Main thing is to get an even, thin coat.
Ever shined shoes? Same thing. Same wax!
Everything slides smoother when waxed.
Table tops - make sure there is no residual 'soft'(paste).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Okay, thanks - so nothing fancy in terms of applying and buffing - just don't over-apply and then buff off with a rag to remove excess. Thanks for the reminder on the jointer and bandsaw (and jigsaw for that matter) - I wasn't even thinking about those.
I got a good laugh out of the shoe shining reference - hadn't thought about it in years but shining all of my days shoes every week was one of my many childhood chores...of course there I used all sorts of horsehair brushes and whatnot for buffing and no matter how hard I buffed, my Dad would come by and find some flaws and tell me to keep at it. Man, my kids have it way too easy today - time to go ratchet up their chores for the day in honor of my Dad
I got a good laugh out of the shoe shining reference - hadn't thought about it in years but shining all of my days shoes every week was one of my many childhood chores...of course there I used all sorts of horsehair brushes and whatnot for buffing and no matter how hard I buffed, my Dad would come by and find some flaws and tell me to keep at it. Man, my kids have it way too easy today - time to go ratchet up their chores for the day in honor of my Dad
Don't forget to wax the holes that the support tubes go into.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
[quote="randyrls"]To join the thread]
Isn't that an anti-rust spray? I bought a small can of that to coat hard to reach areas that don't get frequent attention (such as the bars that hold the bench tubes in place). In my experience, it leaves sort of a tacky, not quite "gummy" surface. Not really sticky, but definitely not slick. I still prefer the Johnson's Paste Wax to any surfaces where things need to slide.
Isn't that an anti-rust spray? I bought a small can of that to coat hard to reach areas that don't get frequent attention (such as the bars that hold the bench tubes in place). In my experience, it leaves sort of a tacky, not quite "gummy" surface. Not really sticky, but definitely not slick. I still prefer the Johnson's Paste Wax to any surfaces where things need to slide.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
I use 1/4" smaller dowel with rag over it to buff excess.dgale wrote:Any tips on how to effectively do that?
Sam in Northfield, MN
A day without beer......could have been better

Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
A day without beer......could have been better
Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
I just use a small rag to apply the wax in the holes. After it's dry I use a hand towel to pull up and down through the hole to buff it out.dgale wrote:Any tips on how to effectively do that?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob