sharpening 4 point lathe center.

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anneb3
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sharpening 4 point lathe center.

Post by anneb3 »

This is a tool that you use for turning by driving it into the end of your stock the attaches to the headstock. I have one that someone messed up. Shopsmith wants 25.00 plus shipping. Has anyone ever had them redone by a sharpening place.? If not I will have to bit the bullet and buy a new one.
Thanks
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algale
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Post by algale »

Perhaps if you give a slightly more detailed description (or better yet pictures) of how the spur is "messed up" you will get some responses to your question.

Barring that, I don't think the four blades of the drive spurs are supposed to be razor sharp (although the center point is pretty pointy) so you might try a file to correct whatever is messed up.

Al
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!

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db5
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Post by db5 »

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bobgroh
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Post by bobgroh »

You normally don't need to sharpen your drive center. And, if it got a bit bunged up, you should be able to just touch it up with a file. The center 'poker thingie' just needs to be somewhat sharp and centered. The 4 'arms' should be clean and somewhat sharp. No big deal - you just need the drive to 'dig' into the piece you are turning.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)

--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
anneb3
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Post by anneb3 »

[quote="bobgroh"]You normally don't need to sharpen your drive center. And, if it got a bit bunged up, you should be able to just touch it up with a file.

The PO really bunged it up using a grinder.
In act we mounted it and the wood in a South Bend metal lathe attempting to get the spurs to somewhat seat. That dod not work. We are turning mesquite which is realy Hard. We usually get it mounted in the South Bend and rough turn the wood to get rid of the rocks and see if there are any nails or barb wire hanging around. Then switch to the SS for
the final shaping and sanding. Tried criss crossing the end of the wood
using a band saw. Still the spurs would not seat.

Anyhow my problem may be over. One of the nice fellows on this group made me a deal I can't refuse.
I am turning pens for Christmas so will wait for a package to arrive.
bobgroh
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Post by bobgroh »

I'm using a 4 jaw chuck for my turning and I purchased a Streb type center when I do spindle work. For bowls I use a large screw in the chuck to start then switch to a tendon. Not inexpensive but a nice way to go. Glad to hear your problem got solved.
Bob Groh
Blue Springs, Missouri (just east of Kansas City, MO)

--------------------------------------------
1984 SS Mark V updated to model 510
1994 SS Mark V updated to model 520
SS SPT's: Bandsaw
Other tools:routers, Bosch router table, Craftsman 6" jointer, Steel City 12" bench planer, Porter Cable 7" power saw, and too much other stuff (not really - just kidding!!)
charlese
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Post by charlese »

anneb3 wrote:Tried criss crossing the end of the wood
using a band saw. Still the spurs would not seat.
.

This should have worked! The crossed kerfs using the bandsaw, or handsaw must be 90 degrees from each other. If the end of the wood is square before drilling a center hole and sawing corner to corner kerfs you can be assured of right angle kerfs.

Sawing right angle kerfs on round or rectangular pieces is tough.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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