Now onto figuring out the motor noise. First I broke the motor down this far:
There was a hex screw holding the fan sheave on the motor shaft, plus two screws with tabs on one end holding the larger metal piece that is propped up in the above picture. After removing the hex screw and rotating the tabs, the fan sheave and other part came off with gentle tapping with a rubber mallet. I then wiped everything down, including the four rings.
Is the seperation my finger is pointing to normal or is that an issue?
When taking things apart, I noticed this had very little lubrication and almost seemed to be metal on metal. Should the part that my finger is pointing to be lubed, and if so what should I lube it with?
Also just noticed a missing screw shown by the hole at the top peak.
No lube there. Your finger is pointing to the bore that accepts the outer bearing race. The bearing should fit in the bore with a press fit. If the bearing is loose in the bore, that probably is a source of the noise.
There is no looseness between the bearing and the bore. It is a good tight fit. Also the bearings on both ends of the motor shaft spin smoothly. Other than the motor shaft for the fan sheave and floating sheave, should any part of the motor be lubed?
rdavidp wrote:There is no looseness between the bearing and the bore. It is a good tight fit. Also the bearings on both ends of the motor shaft spin smoothly. Other than the motor shaft for the fan sheave and floating sheave, should any part of the motor be lubed?
A very small drop of oil on the start switch flyweight pivots.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Rdavid;
I did not see the spacer bushing that goes on the shaft behind the fan sheave. It is necessary to have that bushing to prevent the fan sheave from rubbing on the motor housing. The fan sheave should be positioned about 1/8 inch from the motor housing. The "L"shaped screws are the bearing retaining screws that keep the bearing and shaft in place.
As for the grease area in photo 3 of your post it does not HAVE to be greased but I personally put a small amount of lithium grease when I reassemble a motor.
I do not remember what the tapped screw hole is for and I don't remember seeing it on the last Emerson motor that I fixed.
As for the slit on the armature, It looks like it a something related to the manufacturing process but I don't remember seeing it on other armatures.
I believe that there should be a wavy washer in one of the bearing end caps that takes up some play and I did not see that washer either.
I mistakenly left the wavy washer out during one reassembly and the motor had a vibration when it was test run.
Bill V
This is not sounding too good now. If you don't see it in the photo, then it is not there, as that is how the motor came to me. There was definitely not any kind of spacer behind the fan sheave, as the only things that come off the motor shaft are the fan sheave, the four rings that fit between the bearing and the bore, and the housing that the bearing fits into. Nor did I see any kind of wavy washer.
Are there any instructions or diagrams that show the break down of the motor?
The 'wavy washer' is in the other end(it is shown in the second pix of the first set posted[the one showing the motor windings]).
That 'slit' better be there.
The 'spacer' is shown on the shaft just outside the shaft end bearing in the first pix of the second set.
SS and Emerson consider the motor to be non-servicable by 'the consumer' so no there is no info.
If you look at the other rivit like things securing the plate to the casting you will see what is missing in the last pix. I cannot recall what they are called(speed ?????), but they are like a rivit but the shank has spirals. They are pressed into the hole that is now visible.
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:The 'wavy washer' is in the other end(it is shown in the second pix of the first set posted[the one showing the motor windings]).
That 'slit' better be there.
The 'spacer' is shown on the shaft just outside the shaft end bearing in the first pix of the second set.
SS and Emerson consider the motor to be non-servicable by 'the consumer' so no there is no info.
If you look at the other rivit like things securing the plate to the casting you will see what is missing in the last pix. I cannot recall what they are called(speed ?????), but they are like a rivit but the shank has spirals. They are pressed into the hole that is now visible.
I have put the motor back together and have turned it on a couple of times and let it run for about half a minute. It seems to sound much better, or atleast not as harsh. I don't seem to remember losing that rivet. The others seem to be set in good, and it doesn't look like something that would come out easily. I can't believe that I just now noticed the missing rivet.
Does the shaft turn easily by hand without any indication of hitting something?
Since you indicated the bearings spin 'freely' you can expect some noise generated by them(spinning freely indicates minimal grease internally).
Another video with sound(motor only running - no pan, no headstock etc.) may help us quantify the 'noise level' as ok/'an issue'.
I give you credit for forging ahead where ye have not traveled before!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
The motor shaft turns very smoothly by hand when the motor is fully assembled.
When I say "freely" in regards to the bearing wheels, I really mean that the bearing wheels spin on the motor shaft smoothly and without binding or scraping.
What would be the best way to secure the motor without the pan or headstock so I can run it for test and so it won't vibrate off my bench? In ShopSmith Reborn Part 2, Sawdust Session 22, Nick tests the motor in a wooden cradle, but it is still in the pan.
