Changed the tooth count of the blade.Gene Howe wrote:Please share what your changes were.
Table saw blade flex
Moderator: admin
-
foxtrapper
- Gold Member
- Posts: 439
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 10:05 am
Answering some questions
Your replies are interesting to my question about the wobbly blade. I'll try to answer, but in doing so you all have got me to thinking:
1. I'm using the SS plywood blade, attempt to cut a 4x4 plywood piece (3/4 thick). I had the lumber yard cut the full plywood sheet in half to help me manage the piece. The rip fence is being used. The fence seems aligned. I have measured it against the blade and the ridges on the table are aligned as well to the fence.
2. It is possible that my SS plywood blade is not sharp. I'll double check.
3. I arrange my table set up to give maximum table space. I have the outfeed table set up. I have marked the 4x4 piece to cut. I then set the blade height. (Now that I say this, perhaps I'm setting the blade too high.). I slightly push the piece against the rip fence as a push the piece through the blade, always keeping slight pressure against the fence. The way I see the flex is (a) the finished cut line is not straight, but waves or wobbles, (b) the blade flexes to my eye, despite my having all of the above.
4. I am not using infeed support, but am holding the piece. This could produce a mis-feed of the piece.
I experience the feeling that the board is pressing on the blade to one side, despite my having taken the above steps to keep my cut alignment straight.
Maybe the question is the optimum strategy to cut a 4x4 plywood piece?
Thanks everyone. This is causing me to think about a basic procedure, which is helpful.
1. I'm using the SS plywood blade, attempt to cut a 4x4 plywood piece (3/4 thick). I had the lumber yard cut the full plywood sheet in half to help me manage the piece. The rip fence is being used. The fence seems aligned. I have measured it against the blade and the ridges on the table are aligned as well to the fence.
2. It is possible that my SS plywood blade is not sharp. I'll double check.
3. I arrange my table set up to give maximum table space. I have the outfeed table set up. I have marked the 4x4 piece to cut. I then set the blade height. (Now that I say this, perhaps I'm setting the blade too high.). I slightly push the piece against the rip fence as a push the piece through the blade, always keeping slight pressure against the fence. The way I see the flex is (a) the finished cut line is not straight, but waves or wobbles, (b) the blade flexes to my eye, despite my having all of the above.
4. I am not using infeed support, but am holding the piece. This could produce a mis-feed of the piece.
I experience the feeling that the board is pressing on the blade to one side, despite my having taken the above steps to keep my cut alignment straight.
Maybe the question is the optimum strategy to cut a 4x4 plywood piece?
Thanks everyone. This is causing me to think about a basic procedure, which is helpful.
Wm. D. Elliott
Dallas, TX
1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables
Dallas, TX
1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables